Leather: From the Raw Material to the Finished Product

by K. J. Adcock

The number of materials that will produce leather is legion. Whereas oak bark was almost exclusively used for tanning until the last century, there are now at least twenty useful vegetable tanning materials. The active ingredient of all of these materials is tannin, a colloidal or uncrystallisable substance. Correctly speaking, the term "tanning," used to designate the process of converting hides into leather, should be confined to the use of vegetable tannins; unfortunately, the trade has largely adopted the word in many other processes of making leather. For example, large quantities of leather are produced by the use of minerals, and especially of chrome salts; where the latter is used, the leather is said to be "chrome-tanned," although "chromed" would be a more accurate definition. One mineral process of making leather, namely, that involving the use of alum, or alumina sulphate, and salt, is technically described as "tawing," The conversion of skins into leather by the use of oxidised oil is known as "chamoising," imitation chamois leather being made by that process. Nearly every mineral has the property of converting skins into leather, though most of them are of little practical value. The most successful are the chrome salts, and alum and salt. The use of iron salts would be by far the cheapest process, if means could be found whereby they could be successfully used. Sixty years ago, a chemist named Knapp experimented with iron salts, but failed to produce satisfactory leather. Patents were taken out in Austria in the early part of 1914 for the use of iron salts in tanning, while a patent of more recent date covers the use of iron salts in combination with chrome salts. Neither of these appears to be of much practical value. The cheapest and most stable iron salts, the sulphate and chloride, have strongly acidic properties, and, therefore, have a somewhat destructive and hardening effect on animal fibres. The iron salt that might convert skins into leather is the carbonate, which is difficult to prepare cheaply enough for commercial purposes, though it is used medicinally. A basic iron salt might also be useful, but iron tannages would only be suitable for black leather. Oils and fats also have leather-making properties, fish oils being used for the manufacture of "chamois" and antelope leather. There are other methods of producing leather which are not used on a large scale, but sufficient examples have been given to show that an exact definition of leather cannot be summed up in one or two words. There are now many kinds of leather produced by varying methods, and each class requires its own definition. Broadly speaking, however, leather is an imputrescible material produced from the raw skins of animals, chiefly of cattle, sheep, and goats, by treating them with tannins extracted from the barks, wood, fruit, or leaves of trees; or with chemicals (chiefly chrome salts, or alum and common salt); or with oils and fats.

The preliminary processes are of great importance, as they determine to a large extent the character of the finished leather. Mistakes made in the early processes can never be effectually remedied.

The first operation is technically known as soaking, and its object is to cleanse the hides or skins thoroughly. This is quite simple in the case of raw hides received direct from the slaughterhouse, as it is merely a question of soaking them in clean, soft water for a few hours. If the only water available is hard, 1/2 lb. of borax should be added for every 100 lb. of raw hides. Borax is useful in any case, as it is a splendid cleanser and a very useful chemical in the tannery. Most of the hides used in the United Kingdom, however, are wet-salted (i.e., salted in the wet state), as it has become customary for most butchers to send hides and skins to the auction markets in all the principal towns, where they are offered for sale every week. It is still a debatable point among tanners as to whether it is better to buy hides direct from the butcher or through these markets. It is certainly a great advantage to put hides into work quickly (although not before they are quite cool), as time is saved in the soaking process, and there is practically no loss of gelatinous matter. On the other hand, the tanner is able to buy just the selection of hides that he wants from the auction markets. Under this arrangement, several days must elapse before the tanner receives them, and it is, therefore, absolutely necessary to preserve them, otherwise they begin to decompose quickly. The first sign of decay is the slipping of the hair, which, in that condition, may be pulled out of its roots quite easily. Micro-organisms multiply rapidly in the gelatine of the hide, the grain comes away, and decomposition sets in so quickly that, in a few days after the removal of the hide from the carcase, it may lose nearly half its value for tanning purposes if it has not been preserved by salting or by drying rapidly in the shade in a current of air. Salted hides need a more prolonged soaking than fresh hides, as it is essential that all trace of salt be removed before the next process, otherwise the finished leather may be flat, and poor in quality. Usually, two days' soaking in several changes of water is necessary. For the soaking process, fresh or salted hides and skins are either soaked in square, cement-lined, brick pits, or in wooden vats filled with clean, cold water. A good system is to put a pack of skins in one huge tank filled with clean water and leave them in soak overnight before transferring them to the ordinary pits. Each pit will take 50 hides, or 10 dozen calf skins, or 20 dozen goat skins. Tanners designate as a "pack" each lot of hides or skins they work through, irrespective of the quantity.

Fig. 13

DRUM TUMBLER

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