The steamers follow the Palermo and Naples course (comp. R. 26) as far as Cape Bon, and then steer to the E.S.E. into the Straits of Pantelleria or Sicilian Straits (p. xxx).
The island of Pantelleria (p. [154]), which is sighted in clear weather off Cape Bon, is passed by the French steamers at night. The lighthouse of Spadillo (68 ft.), on the N. E. point of the island, long remains in sight. The distant Linosa (610 ft.; ancient Æthusa), with a lighthouse, is visible only in very clear weather.
In the early morning the abrupt coasts of Gozo (p. [403]) and Malta (p. [399]) appear in the distance. The vessel rounds the island of Gozo, whose lighthouse on the Giurdan Hill (499 ft.) on the N. side, is visible for 27 M.
Beyond Râs el-Kala, the E. point of Gozo, we sight the narrow Straits of Flieghi or Comino Channels, lying between Gozo and Malta, and named alter the island of Comino (p. [397]).
On the N. E. coast of Malta, above which soon appears the huge dome of Musta (p. [403]), we pass the Baia di Melleha or Mellieha Bay, with the pilgrims’ resort of that name in the background, the St. Paul’s Bay (p. [403]), and Salina Bay, with its salt-works.
Next appear the village of St. Julian (San Giuliano), on the bay of that name, and the town of Sliema (p. [400]). We then pass Fort Tigné (p. [401]; lighthouse) and the entrance to the Marsamuscetto Harbour (p. [399]). The entrance of the Grand Harbour, the chief harbour of Valletta, between Fort St. Elmo (p. [400]; lighthouse) and Fort Ricasoli (p. [401]; lighthouse), is protected against N.E. gales by the new St. Elmo and Ricasoli Breakwaters.—Arrival, comp. p. [399].
The Maltese Islands (Isŏle Maltesi), composed of tertiary rock formation, were considered by earlier geographers to belong to Africa, but are now assigned to Europe. They lie halfway between the Straits of Gibraltar and the Suez Canal, on the chief route from the Atlantic to the Levant and to India. The principal island is Malta, with the capital Valletta and many small towns and villages (casal). It is 20 M. long, 9¾ M. broad, and, at its culminating point, 847 ft. in height. The island is much over-peopled. So is the island of Gozo (600 ft.), which measures 10¼ by 5¼ M.; but Comino (248 ft.), 1¼ by 1 M., is uninhabited. The mean temperature of the year is 66½° Fahr., of January 53½° (almost the same as that of Djerba and Tripoli), of August 79½°. Gales, particularly the dreaded N.E. wind (Gregale), often make a winter residence in Malta uncomfortable, while the Sirocco (p. [321]), here very moist, is specially trying in autumn.
At first sight the islands seem destitute of vegetation, the fields and gardens being enclosed by lofty walls, while the growth of trees is prevented by the violent winds. By means of laborious tilling and artificial irrigation about a third of the area of the islands has been converted into luxuriantly fertile arable land. After the corn and hay harvest in May and June the land is sown a second time, mostly with cotton, afterwards manufactured in the interior. Among other valuable products are early vegetables and potatoes, which yield two crops in the year. The oranges are excellent but other fruits are scarce. Cattle, poultry, and eggs are largely imported from Turkey, Tunisia, Tripolitania, and Barca (p. [412]).
The population of Malta (96½ sq. M.), is ca. 184,000, apart from the garrison (nearly 9000 soldiers); that of Gozo (27 sq. M.) is 21,200. The British and foreign residents number about 10,000. The natives, especially in the seaports, Phœnician in origin, are partly descended from the various races that have here held sway. The lingua Maltese is akin to Arabic, but has borrowed much from the Sicilian dialect of Italian, and of late from English also. The educated classes speak Italian which is used also in the law-courts. The language of commerce is English. The faldetta, the peculiar black head-dress of the women, is the sole relic of the old national costumes.