The Maltese are much attached to the church of Rome, and nowhere in so small a community are the churches so numerous and gorgeous. About one-third of the soil is said to belong to the clergy. The Maltese are well-known throughout the Mediterranean as enterprising mariners, merchants, and fishermen. Their island being the most densely peopled region in the Mediterranean next to Monaco, an immense number of the inhabitants have emigrated during the last century. From 1807 onwards they settled largely in the Tunisian seaports, from Tabarca to Zarzis, where they formed the bulk of the Christian population, but of late they have had to contend against the growing competition of the Sicilians and other Italians. In Algeria they have formidable rivals in the Italians and Spaniards. Within the last few decades the stream of emigration has flowed chiefly to Tripolitania, Barca, Egypt, and even to Zanzibar and Delagoa Bay.
Malta is supposed to be identical with the island of Ogygia described by Homer, where Odysseus is fabled to have been enslaved by the nymph Calypso, whose alleged cavern is still pointed out on the N. coast of Malta, and also in the island of Gozo. Between 3000 and 2000 B.C. a prehistoric race (Hamitic?), probably from Libya, settled in Malta. Of their stage of civilization, which lasted a thousand years, traces are still found in the massive stone structures in the cyclopean style, which reveal, especially in their circular ground-plan, an affinity with the sesi of Pantelleria, the nuraghi of Sardinia (see p. [145]), and the megalithic monuments of Barbary, S.E. Spain, and the Balearic Islands, and fall within the sphere of influence of pre-Mycenæan (‘insular’) and Mycenæan culture. Later the Phœnicians of Sidon founded a colony here, which soon became important enough to send forth settlers to Acholla (p. [370]) on the Tunisian coast. Next, in 736 B. C., came Greek immigrants, and two centuries later the Carthaginians, who took possession of the island. They now called it Melita and had a capital of that name (now Notabile), but they in their turn were ousted by the Romans in 218 B. C. It was on the N. coast of Melita that St. Paul was wrecked in 62 A. D. (Acts, xxvii. xxviii). He was received and courteously lodged by Publius, the governor, and founded a Christian community in the island before resuming his voyage. Four centuries later came the Vandals (p. [322]), and after another century the Byzantines, who in 870 were driven out by Moors from Tunis. Under the Moors the island was infested with pirates. At length when the Normans under Roger conquered Sicily in 1090, Malta also fell under their sway, and thenceforward it shared the fortunes of Sicily until 1522. In that year arrived the Knights of St. John, banished from Rhodes by the Turks, and to that Order in 1530 Malta, Gozo, and Tripoli were granted by Emp. Charles V. The knights then took the name of Knights of Malta and gallantly defended their island, which became one of the great bulwarks of Christianity, against the repeated attacks of the Turks. The most fearful siege they sustained was that of Borgo (Vittoriosa, p. [400]) in 1565, when they were attacked by the whole forces of Suleiman the Great under Dragut (p. [370]), Mustapha, and Piali. In consequence of that event the Grand Master Jean de la Valette founded and fortified the new town of La Valette (Valletta), which became the capital and was deemed impregnable. In 1798 Bonaparte, when on his way to Egypt, gained possession of the town by treachery and stratagem; but on 8th Sept. 1800, after a siege of two years by the Maltese, assisted by British and Neapolitan troops, the French garrison was compelled to capitulate and leave the island. Since the treaty of Paris (1814) Malta has belonged to Britain.—The present governor of the island is Lt.-Gen. Sir H. M. Rundle, K. C. B.
The island of Malta presents an undulating and richly varied N.E. coast, but on the rocky S.W. side it rises abruptly from the sea. The Grand Harbour and the Marsamuscetto Harbour, the two grand natural harbours of Valletta, originally valleys hollowed out during the tertiary period, form one of the most important of British war-harbours and the headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet. Owing to its central position Malta is also a great coaling-station, vying with Gibraltar, Algiers, and Genoa. In 1908–9 the harbour was entered and cleared by 3212 vessels of 4,036,752 tons of burden.
Valletta.—Arrival. The great British liners lie to in Sliema Creek (p. [400]); the French, Italian, and German steamers anchor in the Grand Harbour, near the Custom House, or, during N.E. gales, in the sheltered Marsa Creek. Boat to or from steamer 6d., with baggage 9d. (at night 1s.). Passports may sometimes be useful at custom-house, post-office, etc.
Hotels (all more or less in the English style). 1. At Valletta: Hôt. d’Angleterre, Strada Stretta 34, with a fine fresco-painted dining-room (17th cent.), pens. 9s., good; St. James’s Hotel, Strada San Paolo 226, pens. 9s., well conducted; Hôt. Royal, Strada Mercanti 30, pens. 10s.; Westminster, Strada Reale 11; Imperial, Via Santa Lucia 134; Queen’s, Strada Mercanti; Hôt. d’Australie, Strada Stretta 53, pens. 8½ fr.; Hôt. Central, Strada Stretta 44, pens. 8½ fr., good cuisine, commercial house. Also the family hotels, Oxford (No. 29), Great Britain (No. 67), and Osborne (No. 50), all in Strada Mezzodì, quiet and pleasant.—2. At Sliema (p. [400]), for some stay: *New Imperial, Strada Ridolfo; Savoy, Strada Imrabat 6, with garden, pens. (with bath) 6–8s., good; these two in an open site.
Restaurant. National Restaurant, Strada Reale 253.—Cafés. Risazza, near the Exchange Buildings; Regina, Piazza Tesoreria; Anglo-Maltese (Engl. beer), Commerce, both in Strada Reale; Express.
Post Office, Strada Mercanti 4.—Telegraph Office, Strada Reale 38.
Banks. Anglo-Egyptian, Strada Reale 233; Banco di Roma; Anglo-Maltese and Banco di Malta, Exchange Buildings, Strada Reale.—Money Changers. Coppini, Strada Mercanti 58; Thos. Cook & Son, Strada Reale 308.—Bookseller. J. Critien, Strada Reale, and others.—Newspapers. Daily Malta Chronicle, Malta Herald, Gazzetta di Malta, etc.
Shops. Lace at the Malta Lace School, Strada Mezzodì 28; Borg, Strada Reale 269; Mifsud, Strada Santa Lucia.—Filigree Work at Amabile’s.