Figure 1 shows the successive steps in the construction of the simplest basket. The weaving is started as in Figure 2, chapter II, and is continued until it is about 1⅞ inches in diameter, when the spokes are turned up and become stakes. A glance at Figure 1, a, will show why all the stakes do not stay in a perpendicular position the first time the weaver goes around them. Figure 1, b, shows the weaver twice around and the stakes all standing erect.
The future shape of the basket is determined at this point in the weaving. If a straight, perpendicular-sided basket is wanted, Fig. 1, e, give the weaver tension enough to hold the stakes upright after three or four rows of weaving. If a straight, flaring-sided basket is wanted, Figure 2, a, do not give the first rows of weaving so much tension, thereby allowing the stakes to flare. In weaving all straight-sided baskets, after the stakes stand at a satisfactory angle, be very careful to see that the weaver has no tension whatever. Personal taste and good judgment are the factors which determine the angle of the flare. If a curved-sided basket is wanted, Fig. 2, b, start with the stakes quite flaring, and keep an even tension on the weaver as the weaving progresses and until the desired curve is woven in. Always remember that tension on the weaver will bring the stakes together. Figure 3 shows the correct method of holding a small basket during the weaving of the sides.
When the basket is woven to the desired height, overcast the weaving around the stakes just as it was done around the spokes of the mat. This process was described and illustrated in chapter II, Fig. [7]. The basket may then be finished satisfactorily by using either border, a or b, chapter II, Fig. 8. Make the stakes long enough to push through the weaving, as shown in Figure 1, d. This will stiffen the sides of the basket, and give it a more finished appearance. After all the stakes are pushed through, get the curves and loops of the border all regular in outline and the same height either by measurement or by turning the basket bottom side up on a flat surface and making all the loops touch the surface.
Figure 4, a, b, and c, illustrates another simple and very effective construction. The bottom is made with the pairing weave as described and illustrated in chapter II, Fig. [9]. Four reeds cross four reeds, thus giving sixteen spokes. When the bottom is woven to about two inches in diameter, turn up the spokes as at a, bringing the weavers to the outside. Behind these two and beside a stake, insert a third weaver as shown at b, and weave three rows of triple weaving, chapter I, Fig. 9. Stop this weaving by pushing each weaver down behind and beside a stake and out through the bottom of the basket. Figure 4, c, shows the three weavers as they stick out below the bottom of the basket.[[4]] Commence the single weaving by the Indian method, chapter I, Fig. 4, and continue it until the desired height has been woven. Insert two more weavers and weave three rows of triple weaving before making the border. Notice the bands formed by this triple weaving.
[4]. If the weaving is too tight to admit of pushing the weavers down beside the stakes, use a common scratch awl to make room for them. One cannot use the awl too freely in closing borders and making handles.
The border may be closed by one or the other of the closed borders illustrated in chapter III, Fig. [2]. For small baskets, c is the best closed border I have found. For baskets 5 to 7 inches in diameter b is best, and for those up to 8 or 9 inches use d.
When the single weaving is used for the main body of the basket, and bands of triple weaving are used at the top and bottom, a pleasing variety of designs may be made by weaving either the bands of colored weavers and the body of natural ones, or vice versa.
Figure 5 illustrates the consecutive steps in the making of the twisted handles shown in the lower row of Figure 4. The illustrative work is wound around a piece of wood which takes the place of the upper edge of the basket. A piece of 4 reed is inserted beside the stakes on opposite sides of the rim as shown at Figure 4e. This forms the foundation of the handles, shown on f and j. For the other baskets in Figure 4 two pieces are used. One is inserted beside a stake on one side of the basket, and the other just opposite beside another stake. These are then curved over and inserted beside the third and fourth stake from where they were first inserted, thus forming the semi-circular foundation on which the twisting is done.