A reed, wet until very pliable, is now inserted to the left of the right hand side of the foundation reed, Fig. 5, I. This is now twisted three times around the foundation reed, and comes to the outside of the basket, as shown at 2. It is now put through to the inside of the basket, outside of the foundation reed, just below the closed border,[[5]] and brought to the front just below the first twisting, as shown at 3. Follow the first twist back to the starting point, keeping the weaver beside the first twist. Do not let the weaver cross the first one. Keep it beside the first at all times. It now goes to the inside, and is put through to the outside to the right of the foundation reed, and brought up as at 4, and twisted to the left beside the first two until it reaches the point a, where the first, almost universal, error is made. The reed should go to the left of the one already there, as shown at 5, then to the inside of the basket and up to the front, as shown at 6. Twist it back beside the others, put it to the inside and again to the outside to the right of the second. Look out for error b at this point. Figure 7 is correct. Go back and forth once more, and finish as shown at 8. Figure 9 shows the completed handle.
[5]. This is not absolute. It may be put through much further down if desired, say two, three, or even four rows below the border.
The secret of a good handle is in adjusting the ratio of the foundation weaver, diameter of semi-circle, and number of twists so that when the winding is completed the handle will have the appearance of a closely twisted rope. The handle just described has a 1⅝ inch semi-circular foundation of No. 4 reed, and is bound with No. 2 reed twisted three times around to start with. Winding should always continue until the foundation reed is completely covered. Figure 5, c, shows a handle with a 2 inch semi-circular foundation of No. 4 reed twisted three times around with No. 3 reed. D has a foundation of No. 5 reed twisted with No. 2 reed four twists, and e is another, adapted to a larger basket as a bail handle. Its dimensions and the number of twists are clearly shown. The foundation is No. 5 reed, and the winding weaver is of No. 3. These are sufficient to enable one to judge the ratio which will give a good handle.
In order to take advantage of the constructive decorative features spoken of in chapter I, it is necessary to know how to get the correct number of spokes for any desired diameter of bottom, as the woven figures spoken of in that article are dependent upon the ratio of the number of stakes to the number of weavers. When the bottom of a basket is less than 4 inches in diameter, it is well to have the stakes not more than ½ inch apart, and in those from 4 to 6 inches not more than ¾ inch apart.
It is also my practice in making baskets less than 3 inches in diameter to have the spokes turn up and form the stakes, and for those larger to cut spokes only long enough for the bottom, and insert one stake each side of each spoke after the bottom is woven. This gives twice as many stakes as spokes. When you find out the desired size for the bottom of the basket, decide on the number of stakes. An illustration or two will give you the method of getting this number: For instance, if nine stakes were wanted, have two long spokes cross two long spokes and insert one short spoke, as shown in chapter II, Figs. [2], [3], and [4]. Weave the bottom the desired diameter, and turn up the nine spokes as stakes. If eighteen stakes were wanted, cut spokes as above only long enough for the bottom. When it is woven insert a stake each side of each spoke, and the result is eighteen stakes.
Three spokes crossing three spokes and turning up when the bottom is woven gives twelve stakes, and if the spokes are cut only long enough for the bottom and a stake inserted each side of each one the result will be twenty-four stakes.
Four crossing four and turning up will give sixteen, and by insertion thirty-two.