Departure from Vera Cruz—Sandhills—Oriental Scene—Manga de Clavo—
General Santa Anna—Breakfast—Escort and Diligence—Santa Fe—Puente
Nacional—Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward—Country in December—Don Miguel—
First Impressions—Fruit—Plan del Rio—German Musicians—Sleeping
Captain—Approach to Jalapa—Appearance of the City—Cofre de Perote—
Flowers—House and Rock—Last View of Jalapa—Change of Scenery—San
Miguel de los Soldados—Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break—Non-
arrival of Escort—Yankee Coachman Dispute—Departure—Company of Lancers
—Alcalde—Breakfast at La Ventilla—Pulque—Double Escort—Crosses—
Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper—Ojo de Agua-Arrival at Puebla-Dress of the
Peasants—Christmas-eve-Inn-"Nacimiento"
LETTER THE SIXTH
Departure from Puebla—Chirimoyas—Rio Frio—Indian Game—Black Forest—
Valley of Mexico—Recollections of Tenochtitlan—Mexican Officer—
Reception—Scenery—Variety of Dresses—Cheers—Storm of Rain—Entry to
Mexico—Buenavista—House by Daylight—Sights from the Windows—Visits—
Mexican Etiquette—Countess C—-a—Flowers in December—Serenade—
Patriotic Hymn
LETTER THE SEVENTH
Début in Mexico—Cathedral—Temple of the Aztecs—Congregation—Stone of
Sacrifices—Palace—Importunate Léperos—Visit to the President—Countess
C—-a—Street-cries—Tortilleras—Sartor Resartus
LETTER THE EIGHTH
Ball in Preparation—Agreeable Family—Fine Voices—Theatre—Smoking-
Castle of Chapultepec—Viceroy Galvez—Montezuma's Cypress—Vice-Queen—
Valley of Mexico—New Year's Day—Opening of Congress—Visits from the
Diplomatic Corps—Poblana Dress—"Función extraordinaria"—Theatre—Visit
to the Cathedral of Guadalupe—Divine Painting—Bishop—Beggars—
Mosquitoes Eggs
LETTER THE NINTH
Visits from Spaniards—Visit from the President—Disquisition—Poblana
Dress—Bernardo the Matador—Bull-fight extraordinary—Plaza de Toros—
Fireworks—Portrait of C—-n—Fancy Ball—Dress-Costume of the
Patronesses—Beauty in Mexico—Doctor's Visit—Cards of faire part—
Marquesa de San Roman—Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony—Attempt at
Robbery—Murder of a Consul—La Gúera Rodriguez—Dr. Plan—M. de Humboldt
—Anecdote—Former Customs