The Ingenious and Diverting Letters of the Lady ---- Travels into Spain / Describing the Devotions, Nunneries, Humours, Customs, Laws, Militia, Trade, Diet and Recreations of That People

by Madame d' Aulnoy

I was going into my Inn, when we saw the Sieur de Cardonne’s Valet de Chambre, running as fast as he could after us; he was booted, and three Friers scowring after him: I was over-rash in my Judgment; for I could not but think he had stole something in this rich Chappel, and was taken in the Fact; but his Master, who was with me, having demanded of him, What put him on such full speed? He answer’d, He went into the Chappel of the Holy Crucifix with his Spurs on, and the Fryers had kept him in custody, to get Money of him, but that he was gotten out of their Clutches, but they were now upon the Hunt for him. They make it a Forfeit, as well as others, for a Man to go with Spurs into these Holy Places.

The Town is not very great; it is adorned with a spacious Place; here are high Pillars which bear up very fine Lodgings. The Bull-Feasts are kept here; for the People are much delighted with this sort of Divertisement. There is also a very well-built Bridge, long and large: the River which passes under it, bathes a Meadow, on the Bank of which you see Allies of Trees, which form a most delicious Walk. Trade was heretofore considerable, but it is of late much diminisht. The best Castillan is here spoken; and the Men are naturally Souldiers, so that when the King has need of them, he finds here great Numbers, and better Men than elsewhere.

After Supper our Company set to Play, as heretofore: Don Sancho Sanniento was for yielding his place to any one, pretending ’twas his Right to Entertain me this Evening. I knew he had lately return’d from Sicily; I askt him, Whether he had been one of those who had help’d to Chastize those Rebellious People? ‘Alas, Madam,’ said he, ‘the Marquess de Las Navas was sufficient to punish them beyond what their Crime deserv’d: I was at Naples, in the design to pass into Flanders, where I have Relations of the same Name. The Marquess de Los Veles, Vice-Roy of Naples, engaged me to leave my first Project, and embark myself with the Marquess de Las Navas, whom the King sent into Sicily: We set Sail in two Vessels of Majorca, and arrived at Messina the sixth of January. Having sent no notice of his coming, and no body expecting it, he was not receiv’d with the Honours paid commonly to the Vice-Roys: But in truth, his Intentions were so cruel against these poor People, that his Entrance should have been made in Tears.

‘Scarcely was he arriv’d, but he clapt up the two Sheriffs in Prison, named Vicenzo Zuffo, and Don Diego: He put Spaniards in their Places; he rigorously abolisht the Colledge of Knights of the Star; and began to execute the Orders which Gonzaga had long receiv’d, and which he had eluded through Favour or Weakness. He immediately publisht an Order, by which the King chang’d all the Form of Government of Messina, depriv’d the Town of its Revenues, forbad its bearing for the future the Glorious Title of Exemplary, dissolved the Senate, and put into the place of six Sheriffs, six Officers, two of which should be Spaniards; that these Officers should not for the future appear in Publick with their Formalities; that they should no more be preceded by Drums and Trumpets, ride no more together in a Coach with four Horses, as they were wont; that they should sit henceforward on a plain Bench; should have no more Incense offered ’em in the Churches; go cloath’d after the Spanish Fashion; should Assemble on Publick Affairs in a Chamber of the Vice-Roy’s Palace; and have no longer any Jurisdiction on the Champian Country.

‘Every one was seized with such Consternation, as if he had been Thunder-struck; but their Sorrow was much increased on the fifth of the same Month, when the Camp Master-General went to the Town-house, and seized all their Charters, and Original Copies of their Priviledges, and made ’em be burnt publickly by the Hands of the common Hang-man. The Prince de Condro was afterwards apprehended, to the great grief of his Family, but particularly the Princess Eleonora, his Sister, whose Tears were not shed alone: This Princess is not above Eighteen; her Beauty and Wit are miraculous, which astonish those about her.’ Don Sancho’s Eyes grew red at the remembrance of this Princess, and I plainly perceiv’d Pity had not all the share in what he said; yet he continued on his Discourse to me of Messina.

‘The Vice-Roy,’ added he, ‘publisht an Order, by which all the Citizens were enjoyn’d, under penalty of ten Years Imprisonment, and five thousand Crowns Fine, to bring their Arms into his Palace. He at the same time caus’d the great Bell in the Town-house to be taken down, and beaten to pieces in his fight: He ordered all the Bells in the Cathedral to be melted, to make a Statue of the King of Spain. And the Prince of Condro’s Children were taken into Custody: But their Fear increased, when the Vice-Roy ordered D. V. Zuffo’s Head to be cut off. This Example of Severity Alarum’d all the People; and what appear’d most terrible, was, That in the late Troubles, some Families of Messinois having withdrawn themselves into several Parts, the Marquess de Liche, the Spanish Embassador at Rome, advised them, as a Friend, to return into their own Country, assuring them all was Quiet, and that a General Pardon was already publisht; and for their greater assurance, gave them Passports. These poor People (who had not taken up Arms, and being not of the number of the Revolters, knowing their Innocency, could never have imagin’d they should have been treated as Criminals) return’d to Messina; where they had scarcely landed, but the Joy they had of seeing themselves in their Native Country, and in the midst of their Friends, was sadly disturb’d, when they were seised on, and the next Morning, without any Quarter, or regard to Sex or Age, by the Vice-Roy’s Order, all hang’d. He afterwards sent to demolish the great Tower of Palermo; and the principal Citizens of it, remonstrating against the excessive Impositions on Corn, Silks, and other Commodities, the Marquess de las Navas sent them all to the Gallies, without being moved by the Tears of their Wives, and the need so many poor Children might have of their Fathers.

‘I must acknowledge,’ continued Don Sancho, ‘that my Nature is so averse to the Rigors every day exercis’d on these poor People, that I could not for all the World remain any longer at Messina. The Marquess de las Navas was for sending to Madrid, to inform the King of what he had done. I intreated him to charge me with this Commission; and in effect he consented, and gave me his Letters, which I have delivered to the King at Madrid; and at the same time my Intercessions for the Prince de Condro: And I presume my good Offices will not be wholly useless to him.’ ‘I am perswaded,’ said I to him, ‘this was the principal Motive of your Journey: I am no prying body, but methinks you are greatly concern’d for the Interests of this Family.’ ‘It’s true, Madam,’ continued he, ‘the Injustice done this Unfortunate Prince does sensibly affect me’: ‘Were he not Brother to the Princess Eleonora,’ said I to him, ‘perhaps you would not so much lay it to heart. But no more of this; I perceive this Remembrance afflicts you. Pray let me rather hear from you what is most remarkable in your Country.’ ‘Ah! Madam,’ cried he, ‘you insult over me; for you must needs know, that Galicia is so poor and mean a Countrey, that there’s no place for bragging; not but that the Town of St. James de Compostella is considerable enough; it is the Capital of the Province, and scarce one in Spain that’s superiour to it in Riches and Greatness: Its Archbishoprick is worth Seventy Thousand Crowns a Year, and the Chapter has as much; It stands in an agreeable Plain, surrounded with little Hills of moderate heighth; and it seems as if Nature had placed them there to defend the Town from those deadly Blasts which arise from other Mountains. Here is a University, fine Palaces, stately Churches, publick Places, and an Hospital, one of the most considerable, and best serv’d in Europe: It consists of two Courts of extraordinary greatness, with Fountains in the midst. Several Knights of St. James live in this Town; and the Metropolis, which is dedicated to this Saint, keeps his Body: It is extream stately, and prodigiously rich: It is pretended you hear a kind of Clattering at his Tomb, as if Arms were struck one against another; and this noise is only heard when the Spaniards are to undergo any great Loss. His Figure is represented on the Altar, and the Pilgrims thrice kiss it, and put their Hats on his Head; for this is the chief part of the Ceremony: They have also another very singular one; they ascend the top of the Church, which is covered with great flat Stones; In this place stands a Cross of Iron, whereon the Pilgrims ever fasten some Rag, or Scrap of what they wear: They pass under this Cross by so strait a Passage that they are forced to crawl on their Bellies through it; and those who are not slender, are in danger of being bursten. And there have been some so ridiculous and superstitious, that having omitted to do this, they have expresly return’d back again three or four hundred Leagues; for you see here Pilgrims of all Nations. Here is a French Chappel, of which great Care is taken; It is said, the Kings of France have been always great Benefactors to it. The Church which is under ground is a better than that above; there are stately Tombs, and Epitaphs of great Antiquity, which exercise the Wits of Travellers. The Archiepiscopal Palace is a vast Pile, and its Antiquity adds to its Beauty, instead of diminishing it. A Man of my Acquaintance, a great Searcher into Etymologies, assured me the Town of Compostella was so called, because St. James was to suffer Martyrdom in the place where he should see a Star appear at Compostella. It is true,’ continued he, ‘that some People pretend it to be thus; but the Peoples Credulity and Superstition carries ’em further; for you are shew’d at Padron, near Compostella, an hollow Stone; and it is pretended this was the little Boat in which St. James arriv’d, after he had past so many Seas in it, which being of Stone, must have, without a signal Miracle, sunk to the bottom.’ ‘I suppose,’ said I to him, ‘you believe this to be most true.’ He smiled, and continued his Discourse: ‘I cannot but give you the Description of our Militia: They are called together every Year in the Month of October, and all the Young Men from the Age of Fifteen, are oblig’d to march; for should it happen that a Father, or any other Relation should conceal his Son or Kinsman, and those who are Officers should come to know it, they would condemn him who has so offended, to perpetual Imprisonment. There have been some Examples of this, but they are rare; for the Peasants are so infinitely pleas’d to see themselves Arm’d and treated as Cavalieros & de Nobles Soldados del Rey, that they would not for any Consideration be wanting to shew themselves on this occasion. You shall seldom see in an whole Regiment any Souldier that has more Shirts than that on his Back; and the Stuff they wear, seems for its Coarseness to be made of Pack-thread: their Shooes are made of Cord; they wear no Stockings, yet every Man has his Peacock, or Dunghil-Cock’s Feather in his Cap, which is tied up behind, with a Rag about his Neck in form of a Ruff; their Sword oftentimes hangs by their side tied with a bit of Cord, and ordinary without a Scabbard; the rest of their Arms is seldom in better Order: And in this Equipage they march gravely to Tuy, where is the General Rendezvouz, it being a Frontier place to Portugal. There are three which lie thus, the above-mention’d, Cindud-Rodrigo, and Badajoz, but Tuy is the best guarded, because it is over-against Valentia, a considerable Town belonging to the King of Portugal, and which has been carefully fortifi’d: These two Towns are so near, that their Cannon will reach each other; and if the Portugaises have omitted nothing to put Valentia out of danger of being insulted over, the Spaniards pretend Tuy is in as good a Condition to defend it self; It stands on an Hill, whose lower part is wash’d by the River Minhio; it has good Ramparts, strong Walls, and good store of Artillery. It is here, I say, where these our Champions bid Defiance to the King’s Enemies, and in a strutting Bravery, declare, they do not fear ’em. Perhaps something of this may happen in time, for here are form’d as good Troops as in any other part of Spain. However, this is a great loss to the Kingdom, the whole Youth being thus taken up; for the Lands, for the most part lye untill’d, and on the side of St. James de Compostella, you wou’d think you saw a Wilderness; on that of the Ocean, the Country being better and more peopled, yields greater Profit, and all things necessary and convenient, as Oranges, Lemmons, and Pomgranates, several sorts of Fruits, and excellent Fish, especially Pilchards, more delicate than those which came from Royan to Bordeaux.

‘One of the most remarkable things, in my mind, in this Kingdom, is the Town of Doiense, one part of which always enjoys the Sweetness of the Spring, and the Fruits of Autumn, by reason of several Springs of boiling Water, which warm the Air by their Exhalations; whil’st the other part of this same Town suffers the Rigors of the longest Winters, standing as it does at the Foot of a very cold Mountain; so that you find in the space of one only Season, all those which compose the course of the Year.’

‘You say nothing,’ replied I to him, ‘of the marvellous Fountain, call’d Louzano.’ ‘Who have told you of it, Madam?’ answer’d he. ‘Persons that have seen it,’ added I. ‘You have been then told,’ continu’d he, ‘that on the top of the Mountain of Cerbret, you find this Fountain at the Source of the River Lours; which has Flux and Reflux as the Sea, tho’ it be at twenty Leagues distance from it; that the greater the Heats are, the more Water it casts, that this Water is sometimes cold as Ice, and sometimes as hot as if it boil’d, there being no Natural Cause to be giv’n for it.’ ‘You learn me Particulars I was ignorant of,’ said I to him, ‘and this is doing me a great Pleasure, for I want not for Curiosity in relation to things uncommon.’ ‘I wish,’ replied he, ‘’twas not so late, I would give you an account of several Rarities in Spain, and which perhaps you would gladly learn.’ ‘I leave you for to Night,’ said I to him, ‘but I hope before we come to Madrid, we shall have an opportunity of discoursing of them.’ He very civilly made me a Promise; and the Play being ended, we bad one another good night.

When I would go to rest, I was led into a Gallery full of Beds, as you see in Hospitals: I said, this was ridiculous; and that needing only four, what occasion was there for shewing me forty, and to put me into such an open place to starve me? I was answer’d, This was the best place in the House, and I must take up with it. I caus’d my Bed to be made, when scarce was I laid down, but some body knockt softly at my Door; my Women opened it, and remained much surpriz’d to see the Master and Mistress followed by a dozen of sorry creatures, and so cloath’d that they were half naked. I drew my Curtain at the Noise they made, and opened more mine Eyes at the sight of this Noble Company. The Mistress drew near to me, and told me, These were honest Travellers, who were coming into the Beds which remained empty. ‘How, lie here?’ said I, ‘I believe you have lost your Senses.’ ‘I should have lost ’em indeed,’ replied she, ‘should I let so many Beds stand Empty. Either, Madam, you must pay for them, or these honest Gentlemen must lye in them.’ I cannot express my Rage to you; I was in the mind to send for Don Fernand and my Knights, who would have sooner made ’em pass through the Windows than through the Doors: But I considered this could not be done without some Disturbance, and therefore I came to Terms, and agreed to pay 20 d. for each Bed; they are hardly dearer at Fontainbleau when the Court is there. These Illustrious Dons, or, to speak better, Tatterdemalions, who had the Insolence to come into my Room, immediately withdrew, having made me several profound Reverences.