He gave notice thereof to the other Gentlemen, who gave over their Play, and we thus separated.
I rose this Morning before Day; and I end this Letter at Burgos, where I now arrived: Thus, Dear Cousin, I shall send you nothing of this Day, but shall take the first occasion to acquaint you with what befals me.
Yours.
From Burgos,
Feb. 27, 1673.
Letter IV
WE could sensibly perceive in arriving at Burgos, that this Town is colder than any of those we past; and ’tis likewise said, you have none of those excessive Heats which are intolerable in other Parts of Spain: The Town stands where you descend the Mountain, and reaches to the Plain as far as the River, which washes the foot of the Wall: the Streets are very strait and even: the Castle is not great, but very strong, and is seen on the top of the Mountain: A little lower is the Triumphant Arch of Fernando Gonsales, which the Curious do much admire. This Town was the first that was conquer’d from the Mores; and the Kings of Spain have long resided here; ’tis the Capital of Old Castille; it holds the first Rank in the two States of the two Castilles, although Toledo disputes it with her: You see her fine Buildings; and Velasco’s Palace is very stately. Here are in all the broad Streets and spacious Places, Fountains, with Statues, some of which are good Pieces; but the finest sight is the Cathedral, which is so large, that Mass is said in five several places of it, without any disturbance to each other: the Architecture is so exquisitely wrought, that it may pass among the Gothick Buildings for a Master-Piece of Art: and this is so much the more remarkable, in that they build very sorrily in Spain; in some places this is through Poverty, and in others want of Stone and Lime: I am told that even at Madrid you see Houses of Earth, and the finest are made with Brick, cemented with the same, for want of Lime. To pass from the Town to the Suburbs of Bega, you go over three Stone Bridges: the Gate which answers that of Santa Maria, stands high, with the Image of the Virgin upon it: this Suburb contains the greatest part of the Convents and Hospitals; there is a great one founded by Philip the Second, to receive the Pilgrims which go to St. James, and which entertains them for a Day. The Abbey of Mille Flores, whose Building is very stately, is not far distant. You see here in this Suburb several Gardens which are watered with Fountains and pleasant Springs; the River serves for a Channel: And you find in a great Park inclosed with Walls, pleasant Walks at all times of the Year.
I would have seen the Crucifix in the Augustines Convent; it is placed in a Chappel of the Cloyster, large and dark enough, so that you could hardly discern it, were it not for the Lamps, which are continually burning, they’r above an hundred; some are of Gold, and others of Silver, of so extraordinary a size, that they cover all the Vault of this Chappel: there are sixty Silver candlesticks of a length exceeding the tallest Man, and so heavy that two Men cannot lift ’em: they stand on the ground on both sides of the Altar; those which are upon it are of Massy Gold: You see between ’em two Crosses of the same, set out with Precious Stones, and Crowns hanging over the Altar, adorn’d with Pearls and Diamonds of great Lustre: The Chappel is hung with Tapistry, wrought with Gold; it is so laden with rich Gifts, that there’s hardly room to put ’em in; so that part of ’em are kept in the Treasury.
The Holy Crucifix stands on the Altar, near the natural bigness, it is covered with three Curtains one on another, all embroidered with Pearls and Diamonds: When they open them, which is not done without great Ceremony, and for Persons of Quality, several Bells are rung, every one falls on his Knees: and it must be granted, that this place and sight strikes one with an Awful Regard: The Crucifix is of Carv’d Work, and cannot be better made; its Carnation is very natural; it is covered from the Breasts to the Feet with a fine Linnen, in several Foulds or Pleats, which makes it look like a loose Jerkin, which in my Opinion, is not over-agreeable.
It is commonly held, that Nicodemus made it; but those who are for making every thing Miraculous, will have it brought down from Heaven, they know not how nor when. I was told, certain Monks of this Town had once stole it, and convey’d it away; but it took a convenient time to give ’em the slip, and was found the next Morning in the Chappel in its usual place: These honest People being enraged, that it should serve ’em such a Trick, mustered up their Forces, and violently laid Hands on’t the second time, but to as little purpose; for ’twould by no means stay with ’em: However, it works Miracles, and is one of the chief Objects of Devotion in Spain: The Religious tell you, it sweats every Friday.