Travels in Western Africa, in the years 1818, 19, 20, and 21, from the river Gambia, through Woolli, Bondoo, Galam, Kasson, Kaarta, and Foolidoo, to the river Niger

by Major William Gray; Staff Surgeon Dochard

One of the camels, having every appearance of approaching death, was killed, and the meat made use of by our men. We tasted it, and found it as good as any beef we could procure. This gave a sufficiency for the day.

The chief of the town called on us in the afternoon, and told us that he had received directions from Almamy to provide us with some corn, which he was ready to deliver; but, as it was not in a state to be made use of, we requested him to have it converted into cous cous and meal, which he undertook to have done. The necessity we were under of waiting for this supply, and the loss of three of our camels by death, since our arrival here, obliged us to make a halt. I had also determined on sending Mr. Dochard from this place to the capital, in order to see Almamy, and arrange with him for our passage through his country, and his protection and assistance while in it.

I accordingly despatched him on the morning of the 18th, accompanied by Masiri Cabba Dharra (one of the king of Sego’s men), and four of our own people. He took with him some large amber as a present for the king.

Having received from the master of the town a quantity of cous cous and meal, sufficient for six days, and divided the loads of the three camels that died here among the remaining ones and the other animals, we moved forward at five in the afternoon to the ENE. over a flat country much intersected by the dry beds of torrents, the banks of which are covered with acacias and mimosas: one of them was very deep, and so difficult to pass, that most of the asses fell and threw their loads, which delayed us some time. One of the camels died on the path; this also delayed us considerably, and we did not reach Gongally until near midnight, all very much fatigued. In the course of the forenoon of the 19th, I purchased two asses, being all that I could induce the inhabitants of this town to part with, although they had many more, and the prices I offered were large. I was therefore obliged to hire some more carriers; a most troublesome mode of transport, for it required a good look-out to prevent those fellows from running away with their loads. We left Gongally at four in the afternoon, and arrived at Dachadoonga, after a very fatiguing march of three hours and a half, over a much broken country covered with wood. The chief of this town, which is a small one, is married to one of Almamy’s daughters.

The few remaining horses, and the camels, were become so weak as to be unable to carry, and we had not yet been able to purchase a sufficient number of asses for the whole of the baggage; I therefore sent Mr. Burton forward to Goodeerie, on the 20th, with as much of it as all the asses would carry, and directed him to send them back next morning to bring forward the remainder, but from some mistake of their guides, or from having straggled too much, they took different paths, which led them all (with the exception of two or three) much out of their way, and it was not until eight o’clock in the afternoon of the 21st, after despatching Lamina to conduct them into the right path, that the asses returned. Having purchased three very good asses here, we left it at seven o’clock on the morning of the 22d, and arrived at Ganado, another small village, at eleven. Messrs. Nelson and Pilkington had gone on to Goodeerie, when, not finding any of the party, they returned to Ganado, where we passed the night, and lost four horses and (six) all our sheep, in consequence of their having eaten the leaves of a tree (called Talee, by the natives) which is common throughout this country. It is a strong poison, and has a very sweet taste. The pagan natives of some parts of Africa, make use of an infusion of the bark of this tree to ascertain whether a person among them, suspected of witchcraft, be guilty or not. The accused is obliged to drink a quantity of this liquor, and which, according to its strength, sooner or later produces nausea, vomiting, and pain in the stomach and abdomen, and not unfrequently terminates in the death of the person; in which case he is considered to have been guilty: but should the person recover, either in consequence of the weakness of the dose (sometimes arising from a large bribe administered to the person who made it), or a great strength of constitution and timely antidotes, he is declared innocent. This horrid method is seldom practised by the Mahomedan natives of Africa.

On the morning of the 23d, I again sent forward Mr. Burton (being the only officer now with me, able to do duty) to Goodeerie, with all the asses, loaded, and directions to send them back to me in the evening. He left us at four o’clock, and the asses returned at nine the same afternoon. The country about this town is really beautifully diversified with hill and dale, both covered with wood, some of which is very large. At a short distance to the SE. is the dry bed of a stream which, during the rains, runs to the SW. and joins the Gambia. The inhabitants here had commenced preparing their corn and rice grounds, in consequence of the very great appearance of approaching rain for the last two or three days, during which we had some thunder and lightning, accompanied with a perfect calm and intense heat of the sun and atmosphere.

Little trouble is indeed necessary in this country for the purpose of cultivation; the ground is merely cleared of the old corn stalks, and such weeds and young wood as have sprung up during the dry weather; all which are burnt, and the ashes strewed on the surface. Small holes are then made in the ground, distant from each other about a foot or eighteen inches, and two or three grains of corn dropped into each, which is filled by pushing a portion of the earth and the ashes before mentioned into it. In this state it remains, until it arrives at about two feet above the surface, when the ground between is hoed up and cleared of weeds, a process which takes place as often as the growth of the weeds renders it necessary, and which, in this country, where vegetation is so rapidly going on during the rains, grow apace.

We left Ganado at seven o’clock on the morning of the 24th, passed two small villages, situated in an open and well cultivated country, and reached Goodeerie at noon, having met an immense host of black monkeys, who, on our approach, set up a hideous barking noise, and scampered into the woods. Some of them were as large as a mastiff dog.

Goodeerie is a small straggling village, inhabited by Surrawoollies and Foulahs. Masiri Cabba, who is chief of it, accommodated us with a sufficient number of huts to shelter both the men and baggage from rain, which was fast approaching. As I feared it was likely we should have to remain a few days here, in order to the arrangement of matters with Almamy, I cheerfully accepted his offer, and now, for the first time since our leaving Kayaye, we entered and took up quarters inside a town.

I was here informed that Almamy was not at the capital when Mr. Dochard went there, and that it was probable he might have to wait there some time before he could see him, as he was absent on some business connected with the war between him and the people of Galam.