Travels in Western Africa, in the years 1818, 19, 20, and 21, from the river Gambia, through Woolli, Bondoo, Galam, Kasson, Kaarta, and Foolidoo, to the river Niger

by Major William Gray; Staff Surgeon Dochard

Mr. Dochard, however, arrived on the 21st, without having seen Almamy. He was accompanied by Almady Gay (one of Almamy’s nephews), who was sent to procure for us a supply of bullocks and corn. Almamy sent Mr. Dochard word that he was extremely glad to hear of our arrival in his country, and would give us every assistance and protection in his power as far as Foolidoo, to which country we should be accompanied by one of his chiefs, who would be a sufficient safeguard to us. He further requested that we would remain where we were until he could come to see us, which should be in a very few days. The prospect of being thus delayed even for a few days, as I then thought, was irksome in the extreme, as the rains were fast approaching, and, in the space of another month, travelling would become, if not wholly impossible, at least very difficult and dangerous. But so it was, that attempting to move through this country without having first arranged matters with Almamy, would have been madness. We were therefore obliged to submit with patience.

Since our arrival here, we were beset by a multitude of beggars of all descriptions. Princes and their wives without number, came to make to us trifling presents, with the hope of receiving in return double their value, and their attendants were not less troublesome. Goulahs, or singing people, who in Africa always flock around those who have any thing to give, no doubt thought this a good opportunity to turn to good account their abilities in music, and we were continually annoyed by their horrid noise. Dozens of them would, at the same moment, set up a sort of roaring extempore song in our praise, accompanied by drums and a sort of guitar, and we found it impossible to get rid of them by any other means than giving something. They were not, however, to be put off with a trifle. People who lived by that sort of gain, and not unfrequently received from their own chiefs presents to the amount of several slaves, were not to be put off with trifles, particularly by persons with (apparently to them) so much riches as we had. The consequence was, we were in a continual state of uproar with those wretches. Never did I find my patience so much tired as on those occasions.

On the 31st a man arrived from Boolibany, to say that Almamy would be at Goodeerie on the following day, but it was not until the 5th of June that we heard any thing more of him. During this time we were plagued out of our lives by a host of his nephews, nieces, cousins, &c. all begging.

On the 5th, Saada, Almamy’s eldest son, accompanied by two of his majesty’s ministers and three other grandees of the country, came to announce his father’s arrival at a small town of the same name as this, distant about five miles east. They made some objections to call on me first, and I would have waved all ceremony in favour of the expediting in the least our business; but Lamina said it was their place to call on me: they were the bearers of a message from Almamy, and to deliver it they must come to me, and not I to them. This they did, and entered on the business with all the indifference and hauteur imaginable. Saada himself would not uncover his mouth or nose, which he had closely wrapped up in a part of his turban which hung down, for fear he might inhale the air breathed by an infidel. Many words, expressed in a strangely slow and authoritative manner, went to say that Almamy had arrived, and would see me whenever I wished to call upon him, or would come himself to see me if I preferred it. The former I adopted, as I was aware that his presence here would draw around us a set of beggars, whose importunities would be insupportable, and therefore decided on going, without delay, to see him. Messrs. Dochard and Partarrieau accompanied me. Lamina, Masiri Cabba, and one of my own men to act as interpreter, composed the whole of our attendants.

On our arrival at the village, we had to wait nearly half an hour before we could obtain an interview. After the usual compliments of salutation, &c., I explained to him, by means of my interpreter, in as few words as possible, the object we had in view in travelling through his country, and requested that we might be detained as short a time as possible. He said that we might depend on his doing all in his power to forward our views, and that the time of our stay chiefly depended on ourselves. By this he meant to say, that if we paid him handsomely, he would allow us to pass. He said much about the trifling nature of the present I sent him by Mr. Dochard, insinuating that it was scarcely fit for one of his Goulas.

We took the hint and requested that people might be sent to receive the present I intended for him. These were soon nominated, and with them and Saada, who was sent to remain with us (as Almamy said, to see we were well treated, but, we believe, as a spy on our actions), we returned to our quarters.

Having laid out a considerable present, amounting to more than ten times that given to the king of Woolli, we showed it to the persons sent for that purpose, on the morning of the 6th, and made Saada a very handsome present indeed, for which he appeared very thankful, but said that we should first settle with his father. We were asked if what we had laid before them was intended merely as service (as they call it), meaning thereby a present or douceur, or as all we intended to give him; and we answered that we intended it as the full amount of present. To which they replied, they were only directed to receive service, that was then shewn, and objected to, as too small. After much conversation on both sides, without being able to arrange with those fellows, we determined on again going to Almamy, to endeavour to settle with him personally. In this, however, we were deceived; he was, if possible, more difficult to please than his ministers, and told us, that as we did not choose to act in compliance with their wishes, he should not wait where he was any longer, but return to his house, where we might come to see him when we thought proper to act consistently with, what he considered, our duty, namely, the increasing of the present; that as all the surrounding kings were averse to our going to the east, and even his own chiefs did not like it, he was taking a great responsibility on himself in allowing us to do so. This, and much more of the same nature, too tedious to mention, closed the interview. We therefore, to avoid more delay, determined on giving those insatiable rascals as much as we could afford, and thereby, if possible, get rid of them. The rains had already commenced, and no time was to be lost, which could, in any way, consistently with the future safety of the expedition, be avoided.

Having selected an enormous present, we despatched Mr. Partarrieau to lay it before his majesty, and it was not until the 9th that he returned, having, in some measure, satisfied the avaricious appetite of the great man, who, however, still said much about receiving six bottles of gunpowder and a musket for each ass load; and insinuated that he had been informed we had loads composed entirely of gold and silver. Fresh demands were continually made, and we were not able, before the 13th, finally to settle with him. This was done by our giving him an order on the Gambia for one hundred and twenty bottles of gunpowder, twenty common guns and a blunderbuss.

He came to see us in a friendly way, as he said, on the 14th, accompanied by a host of ministers, chiefs, &c., who all expected no doubt to receive something. On this occasion he appeared to be perfectly satisfied with what had been given him and his followers, and promised we should have a guide wherever we wished to move, and in whatever direction we pleased. This, however, we could not obtain until the 17th, and then he would not listen to our pursuing any route but that through Kasson, the chief of which country was his friend, which we knew to be the case, but we feared he was only too much so, and ready to put in execution any plan Almamy might devise to annoy and delay us, and ultimately frustrate the object we had in view.

Notwithstanding Almamy’s having sent his nephew to procure supplies for us, since our arrival at Goodeerie we had been very scantily supplied with provisions, although large prices were offered, and men sent in all directions to collect corn, rice, or any kind of food that could be procured.