The Story of Crisco

by Marion Harris Neil

There are two principal divisions, within which all varieties may be included, viz:

1. Short or plain pastries.

2. Flaky pastries.

Of these, the former includes all pastes in which the fat is mixed evenly with the dough throughout; the latter, those in which, by one means or another, the two are arranged in alternate layers. The short pastes are the simplest, and for this reason should be experimented on to begin with. With pastry, a good deal always depends on the mixing. The best way is to measure out the average quantity of liquid, to pour about three-quarters of this gradually into the flour, at the same time stirring this briskly with a knife, so as to get it evenly moistened, and then add, in very small quantities at a time, as much more water as may be needed. To see, in this way, when the flour has been moistened enough, is easy. By the time the first three parts of water have been put in, most of it will have stuck together in little separate rolls; if on pressing these they should not only cling together, but readily collect about them whatever loose flour there may be, sufficient moisture will have been added; but so long as the mixture, when pressed, remains to some degree crumbly, it is a sign that a little more water is required. When done, the paste should stick together, but should not adhere either to the hands or to the basin. If it does this it is too wet, and more flour must be dusted over it and kneaded in till the surplus moisture has been absorbed. A sure sign of its having been mixed properly is when it can be rolled into a lump, and the basin wiped out cleanly with it, as with a cloth. To roll out, flour the pastry board slightly, lay the dough on it, and form it into a neat, flat oblong shape.

Press it out first a little with the roller, and then roll with short, quick strokes to the thickness required. Always roll straight forwards, neither sideways nor obliquely. If the paste wants widening, alter its position, not the direction of the rolling. At the beginning of each stroke, bring the roller rather sharply down, so as to drive out the paste in front of it, and take especial care in rolling to stop always just short of the edges. Short pastry differs from the flaky pastries in requiring but one rolling out.

It should be handled and rolled as little as possible and when carefully made it should not be in the least leathery or tough. Air in this method is mixed equally throughout the paste, and when it expands in the oven raises the paste in all directions. The flakiness of pastry depends upon the kind and amount of shortening used. Crisco makes tenderer crust than either lard or butter. Make pastry in a cool atmosphere and on a cool surface. The lightness of pastry depends largely upon the light handling in blending the Crisco with the flour and in the rolling of the pastry upon the board. The best results are obtained by cutting the Crisco into the flour with a knife.

If pastry contains baking powder it should be put into the oven as quickly as possible, but if it contains a liberal supply of Crisco without baking powder, it improves by being set aside in a cool place a few hours. Pastry that is light, dry and flaky, is separated more easily by the gastric fluids than that which is heavy. The flour must be of good quality, fine and dry. All pastry requires to be placed in a hot oven, slightly hotter for flaky than short crust. The oven should register from 310° F. to 340° F. The great heat quickly will cause the starch grains to burst and absorb the fat, otherwise the pastry will be heavy.

In making flaky pastry, if it has been rolled and folded properly, and not allowed to stick to the board, nor cut so that air can pass through layers, this air when heated in the oven expands and raises the paste in layers or puffs. Heat of oven must be great enough to fix the pastry in this raised condition, and as cold air prevents this, the oven door must not be opened too soon, or any more than necessary. See that the oven is clean.