The Zante currant is a most valuable product, and is there extensively cultivated. There are two parallel ranges of limestone hills in that island, and the valley between is a rich black loam, varying from three to four miles wide, and twenty-five miles long, or from seventy-five to 100 square miles. This valley is wholly cultivated for that plant. When the fruit is ripe, oblong patches of ground, about twenty feet by thirty, are carefully levelled, wetted, plastered over, and when dry, swept clean from dust; the fruit is spread to dry on these in single layers, and awnings are drawn over them at night to protect them from the dews. The black surface attracts the heat; the fruit is generally dry and fit to pack for market in about ten days, in hogsheads weighing 1,000 lbs. (a milliardo), and is usually repacked in England in small boxes.
After passing a year at Zante, the military authorities were desirous of removing the 8th Regiment to Cephalonia, but the necessary shipping not being available, Captain Hamilton of the “Cambrian” Frigate, volunteered to take them there, inviting half the officers into his own cabin, the remainder being guests in the wardroom.
The regiment landed at Argostoli, the capital of the island, situated on a fine harbour—Colonel Charles Napier being then Commandant. It is the largest of the Ionian group, and produces the Zante currant, wine, and olives. An elevated range of hills divides the island from north-east to south-west, cutting off the two sides from intercourse with each other, there being neither roads across the range or wheel carriages. Colonel Napier, with his usual energy, caused a fine road of easy gradients to be made over the range, and induced some of the inhabitants to introduce wheel carriages, greatly to their own benefit. There is a remarkable Cyclopian wall, with twelve projecting towers, across the neck of a peninsula, about a quarter of a mile in length, in the northern part of the island. One stone measured nineteen feet long, four feet deep, and four feet high. Three courses of the wall and towers, twelve feet high, remained perfect. It was probably about 3,000 years old.
A party, including myself, proceeded to visit Ithaca, a narrow channel of about seven miles separating it from Cephalonia. This visit was full of interest.
Ithaca is a small island in shape like an hour-glass. The far-famed castle of Ulysses is situated on this elevated narrow neck, and commands a most magnificent view, second to none in the eyes of persons of classical tastes. From that spot you behold Sappho’s Leap (Cape Leucadia); the River Meander, on the Coast of Epirus; Cape Lepanto; the snow-capped mountains of Albania—Mounts Parnassus, Pindas, and Olympus; the Suitors’ Island, Ulysses’ Cave, and the spot where the Fountain of Arethusa is situated in Ithaca. Of the ruins of Ulysses Castle there are still considerable remains. The walls are Cyclopian, the stones of which weigh generally eight or ten tons each, and form all sorts of angles so admirably joined together as to present a level outer surface, with very small openings at the joints, and without any cement, somewhat like a tesselated pavement. This is the most antique description of Cyclopian wall. Those of more recent periods are cut square or oblong with smooth faces, and in the most recent the edges are levelled.
It was an ancient custom of the Greeks to bury their dead wearing their trinkets, and coins were placed in their mouths to pay their ferry across the Styx to Charon. These were of gold, silver, or copper, according to the position in life of deceased. A place of interment was discovered not far from the castle; it was a bare, smooth, sandstone rock of considerable extent. The graves were excavated about three feet deep, and the stone slabs covering them were so accurately fitted, the joints also being covered with grass, that it required the most skilful and practised eye to detect them. An English officer stationed on the island had made a most valuable collection of these articles. He separated from his most choice assortment the coins of the period of Alexander the Great, as being “modernissimo”—too recent to deserve a place in it.
Shortly after returning to Argostoli, a severe shock of an earthquake took place. The regiment was standing in a line on parade, and the line had a serrated appearance. The tiles on the roofs of houses were moving, and a mounted officer had to dismount his horse which was trembling in every limb. The damages occasioned, however, were not very serious.
About this time, Lord Byron arrived at Argostoli in his yacht from Italy, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, Mr. Trelawney, Count Gamba, and an Italian medical gentleman. He retained his yacht for about three weeks, and frequently entertained the officers of the regiment on board, sometimes until late hours. He was very temperate on such occasions; drinking claret and water, or soda water. His conversation was usually full of interest. Trelawney used to relate many of his wild stories during his residence for some years in Arabia, amongst the Wahabee tribes. One evening some one referred to Lord Byron having swam across the Hellespont, from Sestos to Abydos; but Trelawney made light of it, and challenged Lord Byron to swim with him across the channel from Cephalonia to Ithaca. The challenge was accepted, but afterwards Trelawney drew back. At the end of three weeks, Lord Byron discharged his yacht, and took a villa about four miles from the town. He usually rode in in the afternoon, and took his wine at the mess, after which he frequently joined small parties of officers in their rooms to smoke cigars. Lord Byron received a letter from Lady Byron at his villa, when two of the officers were with him, informing him of the illness of his daughter Ada. He shed tears on that occasion, and appeared to be deeply affected.
At the mess the conversation usually turned upon the Greek insurrection then raging, and the character of their leaders. These were generally unprincipled men, who had numerous followers while they obtained abundance of plunder; but when that attraction failed they were deserted for more fortunate commanders. Numerous bodies, in the field one day, were scattered the next; and the central Government had no organized force on which they could rely.
Lord Byron was fully satisfied as to the correctness of this description. He said, however, that he felt so deeply interested in their cause from admiration of the ancient glories of their race, that he had determined to place himself and all his means at their disposal. As to the manner, however, in which he could best accomplish his object, he was desirous of receiving advice. The general opinion was that he should raise a permanent force, to be regularly paid and trained, to be always held at the disposal of the central Government.