From Naples I travelled alone through Calabria and Apulia, across the Southern Apennines to the Adriatic Sea—having passed over the place where so many bushels of rings were collected from the fingers of the Roman senators who had fallen in battle. On my arrival at Barletta, I found a British gun-boat bound for Corfù, in which I embarked for that island.
This most delightful tour, which can never be forgotten, was thus accomplished. Travellers seeking pleasure will visit France; those partial to magnificent scenery and tranquillity, Switzerland; but for antiquities, and the arts, you must visit Italy.
I rejoined my regiment at Corfù, one of the Ionian Islands, situated opposite the coast of Albania, where the celebrated Ali Pasha, of Janina, nominally, ruled as Viceroy under the Sultan of Constantinople. He was said to possess in his treasury £8,000,000 sterling, and at that time contemplated shaking off the yoke of Turkey. He requested an interview with Colonel (subsequently Sir) Charles Napier, then on the staff at Corfù, and afterwards Commander-in-Chief in India; and it was believed that the Pasha proposed to him to raise and command a military force to accomplish his object. It was further said that Colonel Napier agreed to the proposal, provided the sum of £1,000,000 sterling was placed at his disposal for the purpose. This, however, the Pasha declined, being very parsimonious. He shortly afterwards rebelled, and lost his treasure and his life.
The citadel of Corfù was strong, but its value as a military post was doubtful, as fleets could easily pass into the Adriatic unperceived during the night. The chief products of the island were olive oil and wine. At this time a violent earthquake took place in the middle of the night. I was awakened from a sound sleep by the shaking of my bed; the church bells were ringing from the concussions; and the inhabitants were screaming and rushing into the streets. Many walls were fractured, but no houses were overthrown at Corfù. This shock, however, was very powerful throughout the Ionian Islands, and nearly 800 houses were overthrown or seriously damaged by it at Zante. Shortly afterwards, Colonel Sir Patrick Ross was desirous of making an extensive tour, to occupy a year, through Egypt, Nubia, Palestine, Asia Minor, Constantinople, Thessaly, Macedonia, and Peloponnesus, and invited Colonel Duffy, Dr. Cartan, and myself to join him. We all agreed to do so, and our plans being arranged, we applied to the Lord High Commissioner for leave of absence. He declined to grant it, to our great regret, on the ground that, as the proposed tour would be through countries subject to Turkey and Greece, and the latter country being then in a state of insurrection, we should be subject to insults, which might embarrass the English Government.
The Greek insurrection having now become very general, the inhabitants of Zante manifested a strong disposition to join in the revolt. The 8th Regiment was suddenly ordered to embark for that island, having only four hours’ notice. The officers had only time to pack up their portmanteaus, leaving the remainder of their luggage behind, and some officers who had been out shooting were obliged to embark in their shooting-dresses.
The regiment arrived at Zante after a passage of eight days in a ship densely crowded, which had to put back to renew its supply of water. It rained nearly the whole time, and the heat below being intolerable, the greater number remained on deck night and day. At this time the insurrection was in full activity, and the Zantiates in a state of great excitement. Shortly afterwards a cannonading was heard at sea, and a Turkish ship of war came in sight, chased by sixteen Greek armed merchant ships. The Turk, having been crippled in his rigging, found that he could not weather a certain headland, and observing the red coats of a few soldiers, who had been sent there to maintain the quarantine laws, he ran his ship ashore to obtain their protection. He had fought a most gallant action. For nearly two hours those sixteen ships had in succession been pouring in broadsides, raking in crossing his bows, firing again on the opposite side, and again raking in crossing his stern, and yet he never struck his colours. When the cannonading had ceased, the peasantry commenced firing on the Turk with their long muskets. And when the soldiers were pushing them back—forming a cordon—they began firing on the troops. I happened to be there mounted as a spectator, and recommended the young officer to collect his men on a neighbouring hill, and defend himself as well as he could, while I galloped into town, four miles distant, for reinforcements. These soon arrived, and quickly dispersed the mob. Three soldiers, however, had been killed and their bodies barbarously mutilated.
When the report reached Corfù, Sir Frederick Adam came down, declared martial law, and held a Court of High Commission under the Venetian laws, which had been guaranteed to the Islanders; and after a very patient investigation, selected four of the principal ringleaders, who were hung two hours after sentence was passed.
The Ionian Greeks had always been in the habit of carrying long muskets and pistols, even when pursuing their daily labour. Sir Frederick Adam immediately issued a proclamation for disarming the population. In every district, town, and village the inhabitants were ordered, under severe penalties, to bring in their arms, which were piled in heaps and burned in the presence of English officers appointed for that purpose. A few years previously, the French, with a garrison of three regiments, had attempted the same thing and failed.
Some time afterwards I was seated at a window overlooking the bay, and heard a distant heavy cannonading; presently a perfect cloud of ships came in sight with all sail crowded, which proved to be Greek armed merchantmen, numbering ninety sail. They were pursued by the Turkish fleet, consisting of sixty men of war, including four sail of the line and twelve heavy frigates. Just as the two fleets were abreast of the bay, a violent squall of wind came on, and the Turkish fleet entered the bay, allowing the Greeks to escape. This they should not have done, as, in such weather, heavy ships possess very decided advantages.
About this time, Major-General Sir John Malcolm, K.C.B., arrived at Zante from Persia, at which Court he had been British Minister. He accepted an invitation to become an honorary member of the mess of the 8th Regiment, and remained about a fortnight. He related many interesting particulars respecting his journey across the Syrian Desert to Cairo in his own curricle, he being the first person who had ever travelled this route by such a conveyance. He said he had encountered no difficulties, and had found it a most convenient and comfortable mode of travelling.