CONTENTS
| PAGE | |
| LETTER I. MANILA | |
| Journey from Hong Kong. First sight of the Philippine coast. Manila Bay. The Pasig River. A drive through the streets. Old Manila. Spanish influences. Manila hotels. The Virgin of Antipolo. Inter-island steamers. | [1] |
| LETTER II. FROM MANILA TO ILOILO | |
| Beautiful islands. Coin divers. A glimpse of Cebú. The hemp industry. The Island of Mactan. Magellan. A curious record in orthography. Fellow-passengers. Soldiers and school-teachers. American theories. Social and racial equality. The Filipino race. | [8] |
| LETTER III. FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ILOILO | |
| Arrival at Iloilo. Situation of Guimaras and Negros. The Island of Panay. Climate. House-hunting. Native methods. Conant coinage. Philippine houses. | [15] |
| LETTER IV. A PHILIPPINE HOUSE—AMERICAN PRICES—NATIVE SERVANTS—FURNITURE | |
| We find a house. Domestic architecture. The Azotea. Results of American extravagance. Iloilo shops. Filipino servants. Settling down. Chinese shops. Furniture. “Philippines for the Filipinos.” Rumours of the Custom House. | [22] |
| LETTER V. HOUSEKEEPING IN ILOILO | |
| Housekeeping. Strange insects. Chinese bread. The washerwoman. Domestic etiquette. A hawker of orchids. | [33] |
| LETTER VI. A WASTED LAND | |
| The road to Molo. Picturesque scenes. Custom House methods. An unpleasant surprise. Philippine trading firms. An over-zealous law. The Philippine bed. Christmas Eve. The tropic dawn. Christmas Day. The water-supply. Food and drink. Scarcity and high prices. Book-learning versus agriculture. | [42] |
| LETTER VII. CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NATIVES | |
| A Filipino Fiesta. The national hero. Doctor Rizal and his work. A languid festival. A musical people. Dress of the native women. Piña muslin. Dress of native men. Scrupulous cleanliness. A walk on the beach. Gorgeous colouring. | [50] |
| LETTER VIII. SOCIAL AMUSEMENTS | |
| A ball at the Spanish Club. The Rigodon. Curious costumes. Bringing in the New Year. A painful interlude. Position of Eurasians. New Year’s Day. The suburbs of Iloilo. Filipino children. | [57] |
| LETTER IX. TARIFFS—INSECTS | |
| More Custom House surprises. Official blunders. House-lizards. Roof-menageries. Anting-anting. Snakes. Cicadas. Ants. Cockroaches. Mosquitoes. | [66] |
| LETTER X. A FILIPINO THEATRE—CARABAOS | |
| Dramatic clubs. The Iloilo theatre. An amusing experience. An operetta. The Jaro road. Carabaos. An evening scene by the river. The fashionable paseo. | [74] |
| LETTER XI. SOME RESULTS OF THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION | |
| Heat and drought. Bathrooms. A handsome cow-boy. Cost of living. Military manners. Camp Josman. The Government of the Philippines. A “pull.” An arbitrary tax. The Plaza Libertad. Effects of fire and bombardment. Story of the American occupation. Unwelcome saviours. A pretty garden. The “unemployed.” Scale of wages. A Philippine cabstand. Filipino dignity. A charming scene. | [82] |
| LETTER XII. CHINESE NEW YEAR—LABOUR CONDITIONS—A CINÉMATOGRAPH SHOW | |
| The Chinese New Year. Question of Chinese labour. A cinématograph entertainment. Unpleasant habits. An interesting audience. Diplomatic warfare. A half “’cute” native. A Filipino philosopher. Tropical rain. | [95] |
| LETTER XIII. SOME INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE, SCENERY, AND RELIGION | |
| The Rainbow. Sugar industry. A beautiful view. Unchanging charms. “Always afternoon.” The fascination of the East. Missionaries. A keen advocate. La Iglesia Filipina Independiente. | [103] |
| LETTER XIV. VOYAGE TO MANILA | |
| A journey to Manila. The mail steamer. Food for Esquimaux. A comfortable night. Dream Islands. Dress for Europeans. Manila. The harbour. Curious reasoning. American hustling. A charming house. The Luneta. | [110] |
| LETTER XV. AN OFFICIAL ENTERTAINMENT | |
| Evening on the Pasig River. Malacañan Palace. An evening fête. The Arms of the Philippines. “The Gubernatorial party.” “Manila at a glance.” The Gibson Girl. An amusing episode. A drive in Manila. The fashions. Manila shops. A market for the best diamonds. A “mixed” wedding. | [120] |
| LETTER XVI. MANILA AND ITS INHABITANTS | |
| The suburbs of Manila. Hawks. A nursery-garden. Orchids. By the bandstand in the evening. Manila society. A city of cards. Intramuros. Americanised Filipinos. The American Ideal. Blind pride. Bilibid prison. Arts and crafts. The “Exposition” and the inquiring voter. The Philippine sky. A steamer on fire. A procession of death and degradation. “Sport.” A visit to Malacañan. A beautiful woman. Some lovely embroideries. Manila prices. Mr Taft and his Chinese servants. | [128] |
| LETTER XVII. DEMOCRACY AND SOCIETY IN MANILA | |
| A Mestizo party. Seeking for democracy. And finding aristocracy. A shopping expedition. Chinese enterprise. Bridge again. A devotee and enthusiast. | [143] |
| LETTER XVIII. THE RETURN VOYAGE AND MY COMPANIONS | |
| Home letters. The Simla of Manila. The return journey to Iloilo. A crowded ship. My cabin-mate. Filipino schoolboys. The first-fruits of the American Ideal. Filipino manners. Some Filipino views. Philippine Spanish. Dawn at the mouth of the Iloilo River. Expensive religion. Wonderful costumes. Lax port authorities. A hearty welcome home. | [151] |
| LETTER XIX. A BAILE—A NEW COOK AND AMERICAN METHODS | |
| Carnival festivities. Lenten relaxations. A Palais Royale farce at the Filipino Club. “Hiawatha.” At a baile. A walk through the town. A Chinese graveyard. A troublesome cook. Wily native ways. A change of staff. Municipal marvels. Noblesse oblige. | [161] |
| LETTER XX. FILIPINO INDOLENCE—A DROUGHT | |
| The rising thermometer. A Filipino watering-cart. A harrowing story. The Filipino employé. Mañana. A demonstration in racial equality. More drought. A new acquisition. | [169] |
| LETTER XXI. THE WHARVES—AN OLD SPANIARD | |
| Roofs of Philippine houses. A walk along the quay. Chinese sailors. A mistaken policy. Native shops. Curious cigars. Desolate mud-flats. One of the results of high wages. A Spanish courtier. Los Indianos. A cause for panic. | [174] |
| LETTER XXII. A TRIP TO GUIMARAS—AN ASTONISHING PROPOSAL—HOUSEBUILDING | |
| A little trip on the sea. Marvellous scenery. The ship of the Ancient Mariner. Coast villages. A band in the Plaza. Oriental tastes. The difference of Eastern and Western minds. Little comedies. How we drive in Iloilo. An importunate visitor. Strange American customs. A peaceful scene in the sunset. Building a house. | [182] |
| LETTER XXIII. A TROPICAL SHOWER—OUR SERVANTS—FILIPINO CUSTOMS | |
| The mails. A good butler. “The inevitable muchacho.” Palm Sunday. Negritos. Curly hair. Beggars. A Filipino funeral. | [191] |
| LETTER XXIV. EASTER FESTIVITIES | |
| Easter holidays. Superfluous precautions. A gruesome procession. The Funeral of Christ. Rival religionists. A midnight pageant. A pretty procession. Happy children. A dull baile. | [195] |
| LETTER XXV. A DAY AT NAGABA | |
| A trip to Nagaba. A native house. The “Philippine cuckoo.” Nipa thatch. Ylang-Ylang. A swimming-bath. A stroll along the rocks. A fisherman’s hut. Country-folk. The village. Pig-scavengers. The fire-tree. The tuba man. Mistaken temperance enthusiasts. Cocoanut-growing. | [202] |
| LETTER XXVI. THE MONSOON—AN ITALIAN OPERA COMPANY | |
| Love-birds. Traces of the Filipino mind. The S.-W. Monsoon. Typhoons. A horrible custom. A wandering Opera Company. Increasing heat. | [210] |
| LETTER XXVII. A WEEK-END AT NAGABA | |
| The departure for Nagaba. An amusing landing. Morning on the beach. A fish corral. Trading vessels. A native kitchen. Betel-nut. A row up the river. Up in the woods. A magnificent prospect. Wild fruits. A primitive hut. The simple life. The American theory of education before food. Wanted a Colonial Office. Harlequins of crab-land. The tropic night. Fishing by torchlight. A parao. Skilful sailorising. Home again. | [215] |
| LETTER XXVIII. A LITTLE EARTHQUAKE, AND AN OPERA COMPANY UNDER DIFFICULTIES | |
| A slight earthquake. Grand opera under difficulties. Barbaric laughter. The exodus to Hong Kong. Vagaries of the Monsoon. | [226] |
| LETTER XXIX. AN EVENING ON THE RIVER—RIVAL BISHOPS | |
| Evening on the Iloilo River. Pleasant natives. A cocoanut-grove. The bolo. Green cocoanut. Salt pits. More trouble with the Customs. The verdict of Solomon. A hopeless grievance. Curiosities of taxation. Religious enthusiasm. Rival bishops. The Cardinal Delegate and the Aglipayano Monsignore. The Plaza at Jaro. A handsome old belfry. The Angelus. Peace and goodwill. | [231] |
| LETTER XXX. PHILIPPINE SANITATION—DECORATION DAY | |
| The coolness of 90°. A letter from Benguet. Expense of travelling. Baby mongeese. Native neighbours. The sanitary control. An appeal to verguenza. An ill-kept town. An inhuman custom. The new hospital. Decoration Day. Digging up American soldiers. Unwholesome sentimentality. | [239] |
| LETTER XXXI. MR TAFT—TROPICAL SUNSETS—UNPLEASANT NEIGHBOURS—FILIPINO LAW | |
| News of the coming of Mr Taft and his party. Miss Alice Roosevelt. A simple-minded damsel. Relaxing wind. By the Molo road. A lovely scene. An Eurasian household. A melodrama. And a farce. A flitting. Filipino justice. | [247] |
| LETTER XXXII. OUR MONGEESE—A FIRE—THE NATIVE EDUCATION QUESTION | |
| A distressing malady. Habits of my mongeese. An alarm of fire. A strange state of affairs. “Arbitrary race-distinctions.” Undemonstrable theories. | [255] |
| LETTER XXXIII. A PAPER-CHASE—LACK OF SPORTS—PREPARATIONS FOR MR TAFT | |
| A paper-chase. Lack of sports. Ladies astride. A problem for Mr Taft. Amusing headlines. Sad little pets. | [260] |
| LETTER XXXIV. TRYING HEAT—AN AMERICAN PROSPECTOR—NEW LODGERS—BARGAINING FOR PIÑA | |
| Damp heat. An enterprising millionaire. New neighbours. A happy household. Buying piña muslin. | [265] |
| LETTER XXXV. DECLARATION DAY—THE CULT OF THE FLAG—A PROCESSION, FESTIVITIES, AND A BALL | |
| Declaration Day. The cult of the Stars and Stripes. An angry critic. The procession. American officers. Methods of horsemanship. A cruel vanity. American soldiers. The Veteran Army of the Philippines. “Little brown brothers.” Representative parades. Celebrations in the Plaza. Strange developments of athletics. A melancholy contrast. Official ball at the Gobierno. An ardent anti-Taftite. An amusing assembly. Unconventional bandsmen. A keen pro-Filipino. An ill-bred Mestiza. Balancing a quilez. Some of the drawbacks of civilisation. | [270] |
| LETTER XXXVI. COCK-FIGHTING—PULAJANES | |
| A sad loss. The Filipino and his fighting-cock. Tricks of the ring. Off to the front. Peace and prosperity. A horrible story. A plague of flies. A slovenly guest. The poll-tax and some of its workings. | [286] |
| LETTER XXXVII. A PEARL OF GREAT PRICE | |
| Philippine flowers. A town of swamps. Monotonous scenery. Hawking a pearl. Pearl fisheries. Plentiful fish-supply. | [292] |
| LETTER XXXVIII. AGRICULTURAL POSSIBILITIES | |
| A Gymkhana on the beach. An alfresco domestic servant agency. Road-mending. The foreign cemetery. Justice for the white man. Treatment of servants. The Filipino tiller of the soil. Wasted opportunities. A terrible disease. Some native fruits, and some more wasted opportunities. A welcome invitation. | [295] |
| LETTER XXXIX. A LAST DAY AT NAGABA—THE “SECWAR” | |
| Farewell to Nagaba. The three-card trick. The Secret Police. A pleasant sail. Through the village. A native shop. Corn pone. An Anglipayano church. An idyll. Filipino coffee. Lack of American enterprise. A strange word. The coming of the Secwar. Human mosquitoes. A familiar type of character. | [301] |
| LETTER XL. PREPARATIONS | |
| Preparations for the Patron Saint. Arcadian animals. Mr Taft’s intentions. Determined patriots. A famous phrase. The blessings of a free press. American altruism. Political Pecksniffs. The spell of indolence. | [310] |
| LETTER XLI. THE FESTIVITIES | |
| The Comitiva Taft. A reception that failed. Unappreciative guests. The decorations. A culinary treat. A call in the dark before the dawn. Gay streets. The visitors. “Miss Alice.” Mr Taft. The “Taft smile.” Looking for equality. A well-instructed journalist. Floats. Some strange banners. Mr Taft’s opinions. An amusing contre-temps. A very informal reception. A little mistake in tact. The banquet. Disappointed admirers. A haphazard feast. The mermaid. Speeches. A fiery patriot. Instructive applause. A splendid orator. Mr Taft’s mission. Two critics. | [315] |
| LETTER XLII. WEIGHING ANCHOR | |
| An Iloilo hotel. A faithful servant. Complaisant Americans. Echoes of the visitation. Skilful reporting. A disappointed well-wisher. | [337] |
| LETTER XLIII. HOMEWARD BOUND | |
| A pleasant prospect. Comfortable quarters. Chop-sticks. A happy little slave. The Chinese pigtail. An unspoilt Filipino. The dignity of the white man. The dregs of East and West. A last whiff of the sugar-camarins. | [342] |
| Index. | [347] |
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
| Discharging Hemp from Paraos (Native Boats) | To face page [10] |
| A Filipino Girl, aged 10—A Casco (Barge) | ” [14] |
| Old Spanish Houses at Molo | ” [20] |
| The Back of our House, showing Azotea and Outbuildings | ” [24] |
| Filipino Servants | ” [28] |
| Riding a Carabao | ” [78] |
| Spanish Architecture in the Philippines: An Old Church at Daraga | ” [89] |
| Manila—Malacañan Palace | ” [120] |
| Manila—The Escolta | ” [126] |
| A Street in Manila, showing the Electric Tram | ” [129] |
| Manila—The Luneta | ” [130] |
| Bird’s-Eye View of Inland Suburbs of Manila | ” [138] |
| A Philippine Pony | ” [174] |
| Native Houses | ” [204] |
| The Track of a Typhoon | ” [210] |
| A Filipino Market-Place | ” [218] |
| A Three-Man Breeze off Guimaras—A Parao | ” [222] |
| A Palm Grove | ” [232] |
| Cathedral and Belfry at Jaro | ” [236] |
| A Suburb of Iloilo | ” [242] |
| Awaiting Shipment—Coffins containing Bones of American Soldiers stacked in Malate Cemetery, Manila | ” [244] |
| A Village Cock-Fight | ” [287] |
| Watering Carabaos | ” [293] |
| A Filipino Fish-Market | ” [294] |