WINE-MAKING
“It should be clear like the tears of a penitent, so that a man may see distinctly to the bottom of the glass; its colour should represent the greenness of a buffalo’s horn; when drunk it should descend impetuously like thunder; sweet-tasted as an almond; creeping like a squirrel; leaping like a roebuck; strong like the building of a Cistercian monastery; glittering like a spark of fire; subtle like the logic of the schools of Paris; and delicate as fine silk.
“Often the blind piper would pay us a visit and taste our gooseberry wine, for the making of which we had lost neither the receipt nor the reputation.”
GENERAL Principles.—In making wines from fresh British fruit, the fruit should be quite mature, yet as fresh in reality as in name; and too much care cannot be taken in removing all stems, leaves, unripe or diseased fruits, and other refuse which would certainly affect the taste, appearance, and keeping power of the ultimate wine. As soon as possible after being gathered, the fruit is to be placed in a tub or other vessel, and submitted to the process of crushing or bruising. It is then thrown into a wooden vat, the water added, and the mixture allowed to stand for from one to three days, according to the variety of wine and other circumstances. During this period of maceration, the mixture is to be frequently stirred by means of a wooden stirrer. The liquid portion is then drawn or strained off, the residuary pulp being placed in hair bags and subjected to pressure. In the case of raisins and other dried fruits, it is customary to chop them into small pieces, and to soak them in water for twelve hours before crushing them. The liquid which is thus squeezed out is added to the rest of the liquid and placed in another vat of wood or earthenware, the sugar and cream of tartar being added, and the whole well stirred for twenty minutes. Yeast should then be added, when any is required, and a temperature of about 60° F. maintained. For about three days—or until most of the sugar is converted into alcohol, as shown by the saccharometer—the mixture is to be kept closely covered by means of mats or other coverings. It is, during this time, to be frequently stirred and its surface skimmed.
It is then carefully to be run off into casks, the latter to be filled to the brim, and the wine allowed to work over or “purge” at the partly open bung-holes. The casks are to be kept constantly filled up with juice, and in about a fortnight the rectified spirit is to be added, if such addition is thought desirable. The casks are then to be bunged securely and left for a month, when they are to be again filled up and re-bunged. Six weeks later they should be pegged or spiled, and a little wine drawn off to ascertain if it be clear. If it is quite clear, it may be racked off—preferably by means of a syphon—into other casks or into bottles for storage. If, however, it is not yet clear, the casks must be bunged up and left for another fortnight, or the wine may be fined by the addition of isinglass—half an ounce to the hogshead—previously dissolved in a little cold water and diluted with a pint of wine. This fining solution is to be thoroughly mixed with the wine in the casks by means of a clean broom-handle. In a short time the isinglass, with the objectionable particles in the wine, sinks to the bottom, and so enables the clear liquid to be drawn off. It should then be stored for at least six months in a cellar having a temperature of about 56° F.
A GROUP OF DRINKING-GLASSES.
Racking is best performed by means of a syphon, though the wine may be—and commonly is—drawn off by a tap. In the latter case the tap should be inserted two or three days before the wine is to be drawn off, thus affording it time to re-settle. If it is not convenient to rack off the wine into a second cask, it may be drawn into a clean tub or vat, and returned to the same cask after it has been thoroughly cleaned, and turned bung-hole downwards over an ounce of sulphur, which is to be burnt so as to fill the cask with the fumes, the wine being at once returned and the bung secured.