A swarm of bees of average size, put in proper condition for winter, will not freeze; but from this it does not follow that a bee is proof against the greatest possible degree of cold. When bees are prepared for winter as herein directed, they will, as before stated, cluster compactly together. And as the cold increases, the cluster will contract, in accordance with the increasing of the cold, and consequently no loss of bees occurs.
Another great cause of loss in winter is improper ventilation, or no ventilation at all. Every swarm of bees throws off a considerable amount of moisture from their bodies. In very cold weather, if the hive is not properly ventilated, this moisture collects on the combs at the sides and top of the hives in the form of frost and ice. In moderate weather this frost and ice melts and runs down into the hive, completely saturating the bees, and then, if a sudden change to extremely cold weather takes place, all are destroyed by freezing; or if they chance to survive the winter, the moisture causes the combs to mould, the honey becomes sour, and thin like water, rendering it unsuitable food for the bee, and bringing on diseases—dysentery, bee cholera, foul brood, etc., and in a short time the bees are all destroyed. Thousands of good swarms are lost every winter by improper management, and from being kept in hives not suitable for wintering. I give directions for wintering on my plan, in Controllable Hives, and I feel confident, if directions are carefully followed, that many stocks will be saved annually, which otherwise would have perished.
HOW TO WINTER BEES IN CONTROLLABLE HIVES.
Bees are wintered in Controllable Hives on their summer stands, by my plan, without loss, by maintaining an even temperature in the brood section, and disposing of all moisture or perspiration thrown off by the bees in cold weather. I have never lost a swarm of bees in Controllable Hives in the winter. I attempt to winter none except strong healthy stocks. I have no mouldy combs, no sour honey. The combs are kept perfectly dry, and the hives in a healthy condition. I do not lose a teacupful of bees, on the average, from each of my hives during the winter.
To winter in Controllable Hives, prepare as follows: At the commencement of steady cold weather, which, in the New England States, is usually near the close of November, put the bees in condition to winter, by entirely closing the upper entrance to the hive, and the lower one shut up about one-half.[9] Take out the box frames at the sides of the brood section, and put the moveable partitions in place. Remove the boxes and feeder, or honey board (whichever is in place,) from over the brood section. Place the ventilator over the brood section, so the lower edge of the ventilator, at the sides, will rest on the upper edge of the moveable partitions, on each side of the brood section. Secure it in place by means of a screw at each end.[10] Pack the sides of the hive (that part occupied by the side boxes in summer) closely with very line hay or straw. Pack the cap as full of the same matter as it can be crowded. Then put the thickness of one or two inches over the ventilator, filling up evenly, so when the cap is placed over the upper part, the cap and sides will be compactly filled. There must be no spaces left unfilled, the object being to secure an even temperature in the brood section, and absorb all moisture thrown off by the bees; and to do this successfully, the cap and sides must be closely packed throughout. When you have the cap and sides well packed, replace the cap, and the work is done. Shade the front of the hives during the winter months. No matter if the snow drifts over the hive so as to completely bury it from sight, let it remain;—your bees are safe.
[9] To secure a slight upward draught of air, to carry of the moisture arising from the bees, make a hole a half-inch in diameter in front and rear of the cap, in the center, close to the top or roof boards. (And here let me say, the roof boards, or boards covering the cap, should project about an inch, as they can be more firmly nailed, and make better joints; for driving rains must not be allowed to penetrate to the inside of the hive.) The inside of each hole should be covered with wire cloth, to keep out insects, etc.
[10] To make the ventilator, get out four pieces one inch square; nail them together making a frame large enough to cover the brood section of Hive. Cover this frame with wire screen, meshes too fine to admit the passage of the bees.
A neighbor of mine had fifteen stocks in Controllable Hives completely buried in snow over six feet deep, and the crust formed over them so it would bear a horse. They remained under the snow, from January until April when they thawed out, and every stock was found to be in first-class order.
When there is only a small quantity of snow about the hive, say only enough to cover the lower entrance, and there should come a very warm spell of weather, which would bring the bees out, be sure to clear away the snow so they need not be kept back by it. But it will take an exceedingly warm day in winter to rouse the bees from their dormant state in the Controllable Hive and bring them out for a turn in the open air. If the air is warm enough to induce them to come out, it is always warm enough for them to fly briskly. In this respect there is a great contrast between my hive and others. With other hives, an hour's warm sun will bring out the bees in winter, when the air is cold, and the consequence is, they fall into the snow, and perish by hundreds. In this way stocks are often reduced in numbers until all are lost. The dysentery generally attacks such stocks (brought on by the sudden changes in temperature in the hive.) and hastens their destruction, by causing them to leave the hive, when they would not do so, if in a healthy condition. Bees when wintered in Controllable Hives as directed, will come out in the spring, strong in numbers, and in a healthy condition—in great contrast to the weak and diseased stocks which have been wintered in the ordinary manner. I have perfect confidence in the method of wintering here recommended, for I have had it in practical use for many years, and have never lost a stock, notwithstanding some winters have been very destructive to bees in this section, some, who practice the old methods, losing their entire stocks. I learn from my correspondents in all parts of the United States that there is a great loss of bees in winter; so great in fact as to discourage many from attempting to engage in apiculture.
My plan of wintering is very simple, and commends itself to every intelligent person. In a few words it may be expressed thus: The brood section is secured against the effects of sudden changes in the weather (this keeps the bees dormant throughout the winter season, which is as nature designed,) and provides for the absorption of all moisture and perspiration arising from the bees while in a dormant state. These two points are the foundation of successful wintering.