“Come on in; the water is fine.”
It did not sound that way, for the words were in Spanish. It was in January, too, and the latitude about the same as that of Washington. There is this difference, however, that Mar del Plata is south of the “line.” While we are wearing heavy wraps, the people in that part of the world are enjoying warm weather. During January and February Buenos Aires is deserted by society and officials, just as are New York and Washington in July and August. Buenos Aires can only be compared to the two cities, for it is both capital and metropolis.
Argentina has but one seaside resort. This one place is the fashionable Newport, the merry-making Coney Island, and the cosmopolitan Atlantic City, all in one. It is the English Brighton and Blackpool united. The life at Mar del Plata is like none of its prototypes or its contemporaries.
Here is an enthusiastic description of Mar del Plata by a native writer: “All at Mar del Plata suggests the refinement of a bathing resort. The waves of the Atlantic beat softly upon the sandy beaches. The magnificent hotels are filled with a monde cultured and sociable, that fills the summer evenings with joy. The English cottages and the luxurious chateaux are dotted upon the slopes with all their graceful architecture and modern comfort. The days are balmy and the nights perfumed; the concerts, dances, strolls upon the ‘Rambla,’ the gracious life of the élite—all this enlivens the sport, and causes the summer months to pass by in an enchanting fashion. And, above all, the inevitable ‘flirtation’ is wont to insinuate itself in the midst of this delightful frame of mind, commencing with discreet love-makings in the romantic light of the moon, in improvised excursions, during which one may enjoy with a full pulse the beauty of nature, and ending in the interchange of marriage vows to the accompaniment of delicious blushes on the part of the maiden, and nervous agitation on that of the future Benedict.”
MAR DEL PLATA
A few years ago a site on a beautiful little bay of the Atlantic, two hundred and fifty miles from Buenos Aires, was chosen by a few of the wealthy residents as a summer home. At that time the property could be purchased for almost a song, as there was nothing on the site except a little fishing village. These people built commodious homes, and it was not long until this small advance guard was followed by others, and the colony began to attract attention. In the last six years alone it has increased one thousand per cent., and to-day Mar del Plata is an attractive summer resort, with scores of palatial homes, several large hotels, asphalt streets and other improvements which follow population. There are a number of low hills that line the shore, which form a pretty break in the flat plains that lie all the way to Buenos Aires. The main portion of the town is built in one of the breaks in these hills, on the largest bay, and the palatial homes are on the slopes and summits facing the sea. There are some beautiful rocky formations around the bay, deep narrow cliffs through which the waters break with thunderous noise. The finest golf links in the republic are on one of the hills which overlooks the sea, and this is the favourite spot for the English visitors to this resort. There is also a beautiful drive which extends for several miles up and down the hills and near the shore along the yellow sands, past the picturesque rocks and ever looking out upon the blue waters of the ocean.
There is not the life about Mar del Plata that one finds at an American seaside resort. Spanish conservatism still prevails, although mixed bathing is permitted. This was introduced for the first time four years ago. The people have hardly accustomed themselves to the innovation yet, as one will only see the mixed groups in small family parties. As a rule the women and children go in together and the men keep by themselves. Furthermore, no one in bathing-costume will be seen strolling on the walk, or along the beach. The women come out of the bathroom with a cloak over the shoulder, and are generally joined by an attendant. He removes the cloak as soon as the water is reached, and it is hung on a line to await her return. The suits worn are generally skirtless, but with a coat reaching half way to the knees; and they never wear stockings. The attendant accompanies them out to where the surf is breaking, always keeping near the life line. There they play around for twenty or thirty minutes and then leave the water. The cloak is placed on their shoulders again, and they immediately disappear into the dressing-rooms. The authorities are very watchful of the bathers, for the undertow at times is very strong. Scattered along the beach one will at all times see men in bathing-costumes bearing coils of rope, who are ever on the alert. These bañeros have saved the life of many a venturesome bather.
The bathing is generally done in the morning, for at eleven o’clock the promenade begins. This takes place along the board walk, called the “Rambla,” which follows the line of the shore for a distance. This walk is open to the sea and covered with a roof, but on the shore side there are little curio stores, cafés, photograph galleries and moving picture shows. Many families also have little private bath houses along this walk; but that name is really a misnomer, for they are principally used to sit in and watch the promenade, as well as to entertain friends.