The promenade in Spanish countries is a great feature of social life. Because of the restrictive social customs there is little freedom in the life of women, and they therefore welcome this diversion. It also gives the señoritas a chance to exhibit their charms before the admiring young men, and very often leads to ardent love affairs. Every woman and girl who is able to get around will be on that walk just as sure as the men. And then for an hour or more the crowd will walk back and forth, until you think they would all tire themselves out. By one o’clock the promenaders have disappeared, and during the afternoon the walk is almost deserted. That is the time for the siesta, which is followed by a drive along the sea front. At six o’clock the promenade begins again, and is kept up for about two hours more, a repetition of the one at midday. Thus it is that life goes on day after day for three months every summer at this greatest resort in South America. This parade is a study in the life of Argentine society, for the real four hundred visit Mar del Plata. It is a place for dress and no one with a slender purse can afford to visit it, or, at least, stay any length of time. The costumers’ establishments of far away London and Paris, as well as Buenos Aires, have been ransacked for gowns to be worn at this resort.
ON THE BEACH, MAR DEL PLATA
With all the increase in hotel accommodation that has been provided in recent years, the hotels were full for weeks the past season, and it was almost impossible to secure accommodation unless one had friends, or arranged for it weeks ahead. The Hotel Bristol is the largest hotel in South America. There is a main building, which contains a spacious dining and ball room, and two annexes, each of which is as large as the average city block. The prices correspond with the magnificence of the furnishings. It is a night’s run from Buenos Aires, and a day train is run on Saturdays and Tuesdays, which makes the trip in about seven hours. The night that I went there were five trains, each carrying fourteen sleepers, and all of them were full. The traffic had been just as great for almost a month. The country is as flat as a barn floor, with thousands of cattle and sheep dotting the Camp as far as the eye could reach. Great, long-eared rabbits are so numerous that drives are often formed by the estancieros to get rid of them. Arrived at Mar del Plata, there was a close line of carriages almost a mile long waiting for “fares.” As soon as one carriage was filled another moved up and took its place. At these times the “cabbie” is the real monarch, for the Argentinians are very fond of carriages and seldom walk if a carriage is to be had.
The wealthy promoters of this resort are aiming to make it a sort of Monte Carlo. A new club has just been built, which is the largest and most imposing building in Mar del Plata. In this building three roulette tables and several games of trente et quarante were running in full blast, one roulette table being in a special room for ladies. The building was not quite finished at that time and only the gambling rooms were in use, they being much more necessary than the rest rooms or dining department. The most prominent men in the republic are members of this club. There had been a public casino, but the governor of the province had closed that. He could not reach this private club, however, without the aid of another official, who favoured the gambling. They were hoping in a few months to elect another governor who would not be so strait-laced about such an important thing as gambling. Large sums are oftentimes staked on the games at Mar del Plata, for the Argentinian is reckless enough to risk his last dollar under the excitement of the game.
Mar del Plata has become quite a fishing place and many of the inhabitants are engaged in that occupation. It is very interesting to watch the fishing boats when they come in from their excursions. First one, then two or three, and perhaps a dozen of these picturesque crafts will come around the point and head for the beach. Watching a favourable swell, one after another of the fishing smacks will head for the shore with all sail set. Awaiting them will be men with teams of horses, by means of which they are pulled up high and dry upon the sand to await the coming of morning, when they will again start out in their search for the ocean’s game.
CHAPTER XI
EDUCATION AND THE ARTS
“Found schools and you will do away with revolutions,” was the favourite expression of President Sarmiento. It was during this administration that education received its greatest impetus. Sarmiento, who has been called the “school-teacher president,” inaugurated a most liberal policy towards popular education. He was deeply interested in this problem, had made a study of the educational systems in the United States and caused the establishment of very many schools and public libraries. The provincial and municipal authorities of the republic were everywhere encouraged and urged to establish an efficient system of public instruction, and his efforts produced beneficial results. The later administrations, however, have been absorbed in other lines, and many of the progressive ideas of Sarmiento were allowed to pass into “innocuous desuetude.” There have been occasional spurts of energy, but these have been far too spasmodic.