SWAN INLET,
The entrance to which was first shown on Judge Swan's map of his reconnoisance along these shores in 1883, opens into the channel three and a half miles from the west coast entrance. It is between three and four miles in length, with two arms, one, the longest, extending in a north-westerly direction, and the other in a northerly, uniting about a mile and a quarter from the channel. High, steep mountains, thickly timbered—except on the west side, where there are two or three hundred acres of grassy openings—surround it. Three streams of clear water flow in at the heads of the arms mentioned, and a small island lies near their junction. There are three cabins in a sheltered cove on the east shore about a mile from the entrance—a rendezvous for the native seal-hunters and fishermen. Leading from Skidegate Channel to the Pacific ocean, between Moresby and Cha-thl islands, is eight miles in length, and from two to three hundred feet to two miles in width. Passing through it at half-tide our canoe grounded in several places. It was formerly much traversed by the natives inhabiting the abandoned village of Cha-thl, on its north shore, near the west coast entrance, and also by the Gold Harbour people before their removal to Maud Island. There are several hundred acres of grazing lands on the sides and tops of the mountains lying to the southward.
Very respectfully, your obedient servant,
NEWTON H. CHITTENDEN.
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CORRESPONDENCE.
NO. II.
Mountains clothed with dense forests of cedar, spruce and hemlock cover most of the surface of the country we are about to enter. Numerous wonderful inlets, sounds and channels divide it into an archipelago of many islands, of which Graham, Moresby, Provost, North Louise, Lyell and Barnaby comprise the greater portion of their area. Although so far north, being directly under the influence of the warm Japan current, which sweeps along these shores, the climate is mild, winters rarely severe, snowfall generally light, except on the mountains, and rainfall ranging from forty to seventy inches, according to local topography, the western slopes of the mountains receiving much the largest amount. Their most valuable known resources are fish, lumber, fur seal, sea otter and coal. Veins of gold and copper have also been found, but not sufficiently developed to indicate their extent and value.
They are inhabited exclusively by the Hyda Indians, now numbering about 800 souls, who live in the villages of Massett and Skidegate, on Graham Island; Gold Harbor, on Maud Island, in Skidegate Inlet; Cumshewa, on Moresby Island; Skedance, on Lyell Island: Tanoo, or Laskeek, on Tanoo Island, and at Ninstints, on a little island opposite the west coast entrance to Houston Stewart Channel. Their origin, in the absence of any written record or historical inscriptions, is an interesting subject for speculation. Their features, tattooing, carvings and legends, indicate that they are castaways from eastern Asia, who, first reaching the islands of Southern Alaska, soon took and held exclusive possession of the Queen Charlotte group. Their physical and intellectual superiority over the other North Coast Indians, and also marked contrasts in the structure of their language, denote a different origin. They are of good size, with exceptionally well developed chests and arms, high foreheads and lighter complexion than any other North American Indians.
Massett, the principal and probably oldest village of the Hyda Nation, is pleasantly situated on the north shore of Graham Island, at the entrance to Massett Inlet, Fifty houses, great and small, built of cedar logs and planks, with a forest of carved poles in front, extend along the fine beach. The house of Chief Weeah is fifty-five feet square, containing timbers of immense size, and planks three feet and one-half in width and eighteen inches thick. The village now has a population of about 350, the remnants of a once numerous people, the houses in ruins here having accommodated several times that number. Massett is the shipyard of the Hydas, the best canoe makers on the continent, who supply them to the other coast tribes. Here may be seen in all stages of construction these canoes which, when completed, are such perfect models for service and of beauty. This is the abode of the aristocracy of Hyda land—of Head Chief Edensaw, and of Weeah, Stilta, Kinaskilas, Kiltslouia, Spencer and Cootay, minor chieftains, who have but little now remaining except their titles, of which they are very proud. Most of the other villages named were offshoots from the parent colony caused by family and tribal feuds and quarrels. Chief Edensaw and most of his people were away at North Island and other points hunting fur seal, their most profitable pursuit. Those remaining appeared quite friendly, and disposed to look with favor upon my undertaking.