I had no difficulty in obtaining the desired Indian guide, and at once proceeded with the work of examining the islands. Down Massett Inlet we paddled and sailed for thirty miles, through great flocks of wild geese and ducks, several of which were soon added to our provision supply. What a splendid body of inland water, from one-eight of a mile to twenty miles in width, deep enough for large vessels, abounding in choice fish and game, its shores covered, with dense forests, where bear, land otter, and marten are numerous, altogether a veritable Indian paradise! For several days we coursed slowly along the eastern side, entering all of the indentations, and following up the streams flowing into it. My guide, a master of canoe navigation, and well acquainted with all of the waters of that portion of the islands, was of so little service upon land, both from ignorance of its topography, and inexperience of foot expeditions, that I made my interior excursions alone. Indian trails were almost invariably found, extending from one to three miles along the water courses, terminating at or near bodies of the finest red cedar, which they had cut for canoes and poles, for carving and building purposes. Upon some of these trails considerable labor had been expended in bridging over ravines, corduroying marshy places, and cutting through the trunks of great fallen trees. Only a few of them showed much use of late years, being obstructed by logs and overgrown with bushes. But, poor as were these native roads, I was always very glad to find them, and correspondingly sorry when I could follow them no longer, for beyond progress was exceedingly difficult; fallen trees from one to eight feet in diameter, in all stages of decay, thickly overgrown with moss, lying one above another, not unfrequently to the height of ten or fifteen feet, covered nearly the whole surface of the country. Several times I struck bear paths, so well worn that at first I thought that they had been trodden by human feet, but sooner or later they led me into thickets through which I could only go on all fours. I found a bear trap so constructed that, when sprung, an immense log would crush bruin to the earth; marten traps, where the animal was enticed by a tempting bait into a noose, which held it fast; and salmon traps, so made by means of wing dams, with lattice work and boxes in the centre of the stream, that no ascending fish could escape being caught. Grouse were very numerous, and so tame from being seldom hunted, that they would sit upon the branches of the trees almost within reach. They were excellent eating, quite fat and tender.
Returning to Massett I then prepared for a more extended trip, the circumnavigation of the entire group of islands, for the purpose of a preliminary survey of the coast country, to enable me to determine which portion should receive the greatest share of my attention. The canoe which I had used on the comparatively smooth waters of the inlet was old, badly shattered and unseaworthy. I, therefore decided to purchase a new one, and began to canvass through the village, examining those which appeared most suitable for the service required. Though I did this at first without seeing their owners, they soon ascertained the object of my visit, and before I had concluded a bargain every man, woman and speaking child in the village became interested in what to them seemed an important transaction. In matters of trade the Hydas are no exception to the Indian race generally, hesitating to set a price, for fear you might pay more if you should be asked; raising upon their figures if you accept an offer too readily; or backing down altogether, even after delivery, and demanding the article back again. Their extreme cautiousness in dealing with the whites is doubtless due in a great measure to having been so outrageously cheated by many of the early traders. At length, after several refusals on my part to accede to their excessive demands, and consultations of the owner with his people, my offer of $31 for a canoe, thirty feet long, was accepted, which was a larger price than they had at first asked. After strengthening it by putting in cedar ribs, I resumed my travels, accompanied by Mr. Maynard, the well known, enterprising and plucky artist of Victoria, and Thomas, who, besides being so excellent in the management of the canoe, knew the coast very thoroughly as far south as Skidegate, about 100 miles distant.
We proceeded slowly, only advancing on an average about ten miles a day, traversing the entire shore on foot, following up the various rivers and creeks, and examining the extent of open country found. It comprises in the aggregate, between Massett and Skidegate, about 10,000 acres, better adapted for grazing than agricultural purposes, the largest tracts lying on Delcatley Inlet, near Massett, and on the Tlell River, about thirty miles north of Skidegate. The soil is uniformly sandy and of too recent formation to be much enriched by decomposition or alluvial deposits. A coarse broad-bladed grass growing in bunches prevails near the sea shore; a taller variety, of quite thick and luxuriant growth, on the meadows, while a species of red top was found on the higher lands. Strawberries, already in blossom, thickly covered the shore in many places. Cranberry vines were also found on two of the meadows. The immediate shores are generally low, thickly wooded with spruce, cedar and hemlock, with occasional marsh and meadow openings. The streams are small, and with one exception filled with fallen trees from their mouth up. The Tlell River, the largest, we were able to ascend several miles before meeting any obstructions. Although their waters were red from flowing through cedar swamps, several contain trout and a very choice variety of small salmon. Between Massett and Skidegate there are no harbors, only small bays, where vessels might find shelter during off-shore winds. From Massett Inlet eastward to Rose Spit, the extreme northeastern point of Graham Island, and from thence southward for nearly forty miles, a magnificent, broad, sandy, gradually sloping beach extends the greater portion of the way, being only broken for short distances by rivers, creeks and rocky headlands.
We became unexpectedly well acquainted with the first thirty miles of this splendid beach. Maynard and the Indian were to go around Rose Spit with the canoe and join me upon my return from an excursion inland. They failing to meet me within the expected time, and a storm having arisen, I began to fear that they had been driven back before it, but hoped to find them at the camp of the previous night. Pulling off the heavy boots in which I had been walking all day, I almost ran the ten miles, only to find the fishermen's hut we had occupied dismally dark and silent. Another ten miles was made in all haste, and still no signs of the party. Here, being very thirsty, I felt my way in the darkness to a spring, from which we had previously obtained good fresh water. Dipping my cup, I swallowed a hearty draught of salt water, which had flowed in with the last tide. Although this was not a very refreshing or stimulating beverage on an empty stomach for such exertions, I returned to the smooth beach, followed it eight miles further to Massett, aroused the sleeping settlement, procured a canoe, four Indians and provisions, sailed down the coast fifteen miles, then walked twelve miles, when we met Maynard out searching for me. They had rounded the point in safety, though a heavy sea shattered the canoe, and would doubtless have swamped it had not the Indian, with great coolness and presence of mind, placed his back, with arms akimbo, to the inrolling breaker, drenching himself, but preventing the canoe from filling. In the thick fog their movements had escaped my observation. They had built bonfires to attract my attention, carried food and chocolate where I would be most likely to find it, and searched the peninsula over and over for me, in the same state of alarm in which I was hunting in another direction for them. In the course of our travels thus far we had found, in addition to several abandoned fishing huts and houses with carved poles in front, what appeared to be the remains of an earth and stone work fortification. It occupied an elevated situation about a mile from the sea shore, and consisted of an excavation about 100 feet square, surrounded by an embankment of earth and stones, which could hardly have been made except by human hands.
Near the close of the thirteenth day we reached the Indian village of Skidegate, comprising thirty houses and 100 people. It is situated near the entrance to the inlet of that name, one of the most important bodies of water embraced within the Queen Charlotte group. At high tide it is navigable through connecting waters for small vessels entirely across the island, here about thirty miles, varying from one to five miles in width. Its shores are generally gradually sloping, with long stretches of sandy beach, bordered by a thick forest which, covering the mountains, rising from 800 to 3,500 feet, within from five to ten miles, bounds the horizon on every hand. Here are convenient halibut banks, salmon and trout streams. Codfish, flounders, crabs, clams and mussels, and dog fish in such great numbers that 5,000 have recently been caught with hooks by four men within twenty-four hours for the Skidegate Oil Company. The natives have extracted their oil for many years by throwing heated stones into hollowed logs, filled with dog fish livers. But the oil obtained by this rude process was so frequently burnt and filled with dirt that it became very unpopular and could only be sold at a low price. The company above mentioned, by the introduction of the most approved retorts, have succeeded in extracting an article so pure and clear that it meets with a ready sale at a good price, and is regarded as one of the best oils in use, especially for all lubricating purposes. The company manufacture about 40,000 gallons annually, giving employment to the Indians from all parts of the island during the summer months. They are now assembling at Skidegate, which they make their headquarters during the dog fishing season. The shore is covered with canvas, Indian men, women and children, dried halibut, herring spawn, fishing tackle, bedding and camp equippage, presenting a scene of great interest.
Remaining here over night several voices were heard singing familiar hymns in a house close at hand. Going to the entrance I found a prayer meeting in progress, and, being invited in, remained to its close. Knowing that they had received only very limited missionary instruction, and none whatever for several months, I was considerably surprised that of their own motion, and without any white leader, they should hold such a well-conducted religious service. The songs were well rendered in English, the praying and speaking being in their native language.
I refitted at Skidegate, hiring a stronger canoe and two Hydah Indians, known as Sam and Tom, who, together, were well acquainted with the principal waters to be traversed. Proceeding southward, steep and often precipitous mountains, ranging in elevation from 800 to 4,000 feet above the sea, rugged and rocky on their western slopes, densely covered with forests of spruce, hemlock and cedar, extended from Skidegate to Cape St. James, and from Queen Charlotte Sound to the Pacific Ocean, over all the islands, so far as any observations extend, except a few thousand acres of grazing lands. Small tracts of arable meadows and garden patches are cultivated by the natives. The narrowness of the island south of Skidegate leaves but little room for an interior, beyond the range of the eye, when standing upon the summits of the highest mountains, after having traversed their shores. The latter are uniformly rock bound, frequently bluffy or precipitous, from 20 to 1,500 feet in height, with generally very limited borders of level country, the base of the steep mountains reaching down to the sea, with but narrow foothill slopes. The streams flowing from the short watersheds are small but numerous, and without exception, filled with fallen trees from their source to their mouth. Their waters are generally rapid, clear and good. Trout are plentiful in most of them, and a small, very excellent salmon is caught in considerable numbers in several of the largest. We found Chief Skidegate and several of his people securing their spring supply by means of traps, from a creek flowing into Copper Bay, and Chief Skedance en route for the same purpose to a small stream emptying into Cumshewa Inlet from Louise Island.
The rivers, which I followed to their source, rise in lakes and small swampy mountain basins. There are several harbors, where large vessels may find perfect shelter during the severest storms. Although the timber area is so great, there are but few localities where saw mills could be profitably operated. The forest embraces no Douglass fir, but little available yellow cedar or cypress, and only comparatively small bodies of merchantable spruce, which are accessible without the construction of expensive roads. Between Skidegate and Cape St. James there are more than thirty islands and islets, and bays, inlets, harbors, sounds and channels in great numbers. Day after day and week after week we paddled, rowed and sailed along these wonderful shores, visiting the Indian villages of Cumshewa, Skedance, Laskeek, or Tanoo, and Ninstints, all occupied, and several others now abandoned. We also crossed Moresby Island from the east to the west coast at two different points, where the Indians assured me that there were trails over which canoes had sometimes been carried. We found no signs of a trail, except for a short distance, but, on the contrary, a country so difficult to traverse, on account of swamps and fallen timber, that the transportation of canoes through it would be a most laborious undertaking.
All of the villages named are beautifully situated, facing the south from cozy sheltered nooks, with splendid beaches, and abundant supplies of food conveniently near. Besides the halibut bank marked on the chart, there is one near all of the villages mentioned, and inexhaustible quantities of clams and mussels along the neighboring shores. This is certainly one of the most favored regions in the world for the abode of the Indian. From the number and size of their houses now occupied, and ruins, from fifty to seventy in each village, their burial Ghans and houses filled with the dead, these islands most have contained at least ten times their present population. Smallpox and the corruption of their women have been the principal causes of their destruction. The Hyda women, being good looking compared with those of the other coast tribes, have for twenty years been the special prey of the coarse libertines of a large floating population, until virtue is almost unknown among them. Nothing can save the race from speedy extinction except the most careful Christian training of their few healthy children. There are no missionaries in any of these villages, nor have they been visited by white men, except at long intervals. They treated me, however, with great kindness, inviting me to sleep in their houses, both at Laskeek and Ninstints, and presenting my guides with dried and fresh halibut, dried sea weed, fish spawn, and the eggs of sea fowl.
Many of the natives, especially the women, were painted; a few of the oldest wore rings on their ankles, and all had their noses pierced for them. My guides painted at Ninstints both black and red, and urged me to do so, saying that it would not only improve my appearance, but prevent the skin from blistering. The preservation of their complexion I find to be the principal reason for painting by the women. They are the fairest on the Coast, and evidently conscious of it. One young woman, exceptionally good looking, ran to a brook upon our approach, and quickly washed off the unsightly pitch, deer tallow and charcoal, that she might appear in all her native charms.