Formerly Trèves occupied a large space on both sides of the Moselle, but it has in later years been confined to the right bank of the river; indeed, it cannot properly be said to be on the Moselle at all, for the principal part of the town is at some distance inland, and everywhere walls shut it out from the stream, only a few detached houses appearing on the banks.
Completely modernised, Trèves yet possesses a certain look of age, owing probably to its walls with avenues of trees surrounding, and an air of decay visible throughout its streets and squares. The later style of houses are of the time of Louis XV., and many of them are good specimens of sufficiently ornamented dwellings.
The Market-place presents a most animated appearance on the great market-days; and it is with difficulty we can force our way through the crowd on those days, owing to a fashion the women have of wearing their baskets on their backs; which unwieldy things are unmercifully pushed into the ribs of the passer-by, and while he tries to recover his breath after the concussion his incautious foot probably receives a solid sabot on its tenderest part. In the Market-place stands an elegant fountain, opposite to which is the Rothen Haus, formerly the town-hall: this building is now a comfortable inn, well placed for studying costumes and customs.
Within sight of the Market-place is the famous Porta Nigra; what its original use was is a matter of vague conjecture, the learned in such subjects not being able to agree in their opinions. During the middle ages it was used for ecclesiastical purposes, and was fitted up as two churches, one above the other, in which service was regularly performed: the Prussian authorities have restored it to its original state, and it is very well preserved, and is certainly quite one of the most interesting Roman buildings extant.
There are (as we stated at the commencement of this chapter) many other reminiscences of the Roman rule to be seen in Trèves, the principal of which are the bridge, the amphitheatre, and the baths: of the latter a considerable portion still remains, but of the amphitheatre only the form is left, with a mere fragment of wall at the entrance. It, in common with the other ruins in Trèves, is well kept and preserved.
The old palace of the Archbishops is now a barrack, and only interesting from its associations.
The Liebfrauen Kirche is a beautiful Gothic edifice, with noble arches of extreme lightness and delicacy of appearance; the doorway is richly carved; and, altogether, this church is as beautiful a specimen of its order of architecture as can be found.
The Cathedral is a fine building and stands side by side with the Liebfrauen Kirche, which it far exceeds in size but to which it is inferior in beauty; it is, nevertheless, a good specimen of the Byzantine style, and from its proximity to the Liebfrauen Kirche we are able, at a glance, to contrast the different orders of architecture.
In this Cathedral is deposited the coat of our Saviour, “woven without seam from top to the bottom;” and here flocked, so lately as 1844, no less than one million one hundred thousand persons to gaze on the wonderful garment, which was exhibited to the faithful for eight weeks and then returned to its coffer.