There are many other churches in and around Trèves, one of which the commissionaires think very grand, and accordingly march their slaves, the sight-seers, off to visit it, and expect them to fall into raptures with a whitewashed, high-roofed ball-room, covered with tawdry, coarsely-painted arabesques, and indifferent pictures; the slaves generally gratify their tyrants by falling into unbounded raptures, and nearly twist their necks off to get a look at the paintings on the ceiling: latterly, little looking-glasses have been provided, to save them from getting cricks in their necks.
About six miles from Trèves, on the Luxembourg road, is a village called Igel. Here is preserved a very curious stone obelisk, covered with carvings of figures and inscriptions: as usual, there is a considerable dispute as to its origin and purpose, but it undoubtedly is a very curious relic of bygone days, and is not without beauty in design and execution.
Luxembourg is a very strong place, so scientifically fortified that it is most difficult for an uninitiated person to find his way into it; and having done so, the town is so wretchedly stupid and dull that the visitor generally comes to the conclusion that he has taken a good deal of trouble for nothing, and hastens to make his way out: which task he finds not less difficult than the entry. From the walls very striking views might be seen, only the sentries order you off immediately, especially if you have so deadly an implement as a sketch-book in your hand; however, we have no particular cause to expatiate on Luxembourg, as it is only one small feeder of our river.
Roman Monument in Igel.
[1] The foundation of this legend is, that portions of canals have been found between Trèves and Cologne, but it is supposed they were separate canals, not portions of one large one; therefore, perhaps, the duck did not swim all the way from Trèves.
[2] Cathedral.
[3] Grimm supposes Eigel and Orendel to be Ulysses and Laertes.