The next pitch, a chimney, is rather more so than that passed, both as regards height and moisture. It can be obviated by the rocks on either hand, however. Above it is a steep wall of rock surmounted by a crack. The wall can be climbed direct or by way of a chimney on the left, either of which routes is interesting, but not as stiff as the crack above. Beyond this is the difficult pitch. High up, a huge mass of rock protruding from the right wall breaks the continuity of the chimney and forms a cave. Away outwards, at about the level of the cave, is a shallow groove with no bottom; the difficulty is to get into this. And a very serious difficulty it is. Fortunately a small stone is tightly jammed inside the cave, and the leader’s rope can be passed behind it. He then traverses outward, aided somewhat by his second, and after a long stretch upward, in a most awkward position, a handhold is reached. Then occurs a most strenuous arm pull, with the feet dangling helplessly, or vainly seeking support on the smooth rock-wall. Elbows, arms, and shoulders are simultaneously requisitioned ere a hold for the feet can be found in the groove. Once this is gained, however, the work is easier until the top chock-stone is reached. This demands another effort, and the pitch is vanquished.
Dr. Sheldon, who led the first ascent, was much impressed by its difficulty, and likened it to the top pitch of Walker’s Gully, which he had climbed a short time previously. There remain two more obstacles before the steep wall at the top is reached, neither of which call for special comment. Near the angle of Eagle Crag there is a long straight Gully which so far has not been climbed in its entirety. It repelled a party of exceptional strength some years ago, after an assault upon it lasting for seven hours.
Bleaberry Combe, carved out of the breast of High Stile, contains the small tarn whence issues Sour Milk Ghyll, beloved of the Buttermere day excursionist.
As he stands at the door of Buttermere Hotel and gazes upward at the crags above the water slide, a fine rift is open to his view. This, which by the way can also be seen from near Keswick, was the first climb made on the Bleaberry Combe Crags. It is the Black Chimney, and was first climbed by the late O. G. Jones and J. W. Robinson (what a lot we Lakeland climbers owe to those two!) in the early days of their acquaintance.
In spite of its promising appearance it contains but two pitches, both of which are fairly simple. Further along the crag to the right, and hidden from sight of the hotel, is the Central Gully. This lacks continuity throughout the greater part of its length, but possesses two pitches of considerable difficulty. Further round still is a long narrow chimney. At present it is known as Bleaberry Chimney, but we would suggest Oppenheimer’s Chimney as a more appropriate name, for Mr. Oppenheimer was in the large party that first climbed it in 1908, and the fraternity will welcome this permanent means of identifying him with the fine work he has done in its vicinity. To quote his own words, ‘the chimney is the longest and most enjoyable climb on these crags.’
Two long, easy gullies on the north-west side of Grassmoor, suitable for beginners, and another on Dale Head facing Honister, complete the tale of the Buttermere climbs, which, as the famous courses around Wastdale become more familiar, are sure to attract more attention in the future, and deservedly so, than they have done in the past.
It cannot at present be said that the outlying climbs of the Lake District receive much attention, thus few of them are kept in a good state of repair. Perhaps the Borrowdale courses are most visited, notably Sergeant Crag Chimney and Mouse Ghyll. Considerable alterations have taken place in the former course since Mr. Jones’ days. The difficult central pitch, or, rather, the upper part of it, has partially collapsed. Though the ascent is much simplified, the place needs respectful treatment. At least one leader has fallen here quite recently. There is one Borrowdale climb which seems practically deserted. This is Black Crag Gully. This fine, narrow rift splits the face of the cliff at the easterly head of Troutdale, and looks very striking when seen across the Borrowdale Valley from Mouse Ghyll. Unfortunately there is a loose section almost half-way up which would prevent the ascent from being recommended except to advanced experts. The two pitches below this danger zone are quite good. The ensuing pitch, about 30 feet high, is singularly smooth, and few sound holds are available. The fall of a well-known leader not very long ago tested the strength of an alpine rope here. Luckily it was belayed around a tree, and, though in the hands of a beginner, it held securely, despite a fall of over 20 feet. Even trees on a climb may be sometimes useful. Above this dangerous portion the climb is most enjoyable, and unique for the lake views it affords.
In the early days parties of keen campers and scramblers frequented the beautiful dales around the head of Ullswater. But nowadays, after everything has been explored thoroughly, it cannot be said that there is much in the vicinity to attract cragsmen. On Helvellyn, St. Sunday’s Crag, and Fairfield there is plenty of indefinite scrambling to be found, but this is never continuously good, rather the reverse. Despite its huge bulk Helvellyn possesses few rocks that favour the climber. Dolly Waggon Pike, at the head of Grisedale, is the best of all. It contains two gullies which may be reached from Patterdale in about an hour and a half, or from the top of Dunmail Raise on the Grasmere side in less than an hour’s time. In these days of motor mountaineering this fact is worth remembering. The best-known course, Dolly Waggon Pike Gully, lies rather towards the westerly end of the crag, and rises, narrow and steep, just to the right of a series of big scree gullies which unite and send a conspicuous talus of scree down the mountain side. Some short introductory scrambling leads to the real climbing, where an almost vertical crack rises on the left in the true bed of the gully. A shallow scoop on the right gives the best route for about 15 feet, when it may be advisable to traverse back to the left into the crack above the steepest part. This is now followed by a patch of scree above a series of slabs, and short boulder pitches lead to the final chimney, which rises slightly on the left. About 300 feet east of this somewhat easy course there is a much more imposing opening in the crags. This was noticed many years ago by the pioneers, notably by the late Tom Westmorland, whose name all climbers remember with respect in connection with the early days on the Pillar Rock, and the building of the Westmorland cairn or Great Gable. The great rift in Dolly Waggon Pike, though often attempted, was not climbed in its entirety direct until so recently as 1910. Strange to tell, it fell to the lot of the pioneer’s son, Mr. Horace Westmorland, to lead the first party. His companion was Mr. John Mounsey. Their friends have named the place the Penrith Gully.
There are four difficult pitches in the gully, three of them being of the cave and jammed-boulder variety. Unfortunately a grassy terrace divides the lower pitches from the upper portion, making it easy to leave the gully above the second pitch. This somewhat spoils the continuity of the climb. The first pitch is not difficult, and may be passed directly over the chock-stone after first backing up on the left. The second obstacle is more trying. The best plan is to ‘back up’ as far as the recess under the capstone, and with the second man in this secure resting-place the leader may negotiate the awkward exit over the boulder on its right-hand side. The third or ‘Great Pitch’ starts from above the intervening ledge. Eighty feet higher a huge boulder has become jammed across the gorge, with a smaller mass below it. There is no cave below these, and as the place is very steep, somewhat smooth, and always rather wet, it ranks as much the most difficult part of the climb. A shallow scoop just to the right of the bed of the gully enables the lower chock-stone to be reached. Some anchorage is available here, and the rope may be threaded to secure the further advance of the leader. The final exposed section is best climbed to the left of the crack, which is formed between the big boulder and the left wall. The final pitch is vegetation-covered, and possesses a fine bridge-rock, but the whole of the gully is loose, and the finish somewhat unpleasant.
Dove Crags, Patterdale.—This cliff looks tempting when seen from below the Kirkstone Pass and near the Brotherswater Hotel, which provides the best starting-point. Climbers have more than once essayed the ascent. ‘An impossible face’ and ‘an inaccessible gully’ seemed to be the only result until October 1910, when Messrs. H. Westmorland, J. Mounsey, and W. A. North discovered a complicated route up the rock-face. This was about 100 feet to the right of the really ‘inaccessible gully.’ The overhanging sections were avoided by some skilful traversing, and the situations often proved sensational. In the local newspapers it was stated that a doctor was present at the foot of the crags.