Small cairns mark the route, which, once correctly started upon, can hardly be missed, for there is scarcely another available.
CHAPTER IV
RECENT CLIMBS AROUND LANGDALE AND DOE CRAG
Pavey Ark.—Despite the exploitation of Gimmer Crag and other smaller local attractions, this fine mass still ranks as first favourite with most climbers who stray Langdalewards. Yet, though it becomes more and more scarred and scratched with the marks of ‘hob-nailers,’ one curious feature must impress those who visit the crags after several years’ absence. This is the curious encroachment of vegetation. Beautiful as are some of the plants and grasses which cling to the face, the cragsman revels most in seeing and climbing the stern, bare crags. The rarest botanical specimen, if it cumber a handhold, is treated with scant respect. Fortunately the more popular routes are practically free from dangerous vegetation, but recent adventures on some that are less frequented would suggest that a warning note be struck.
The Crescent Climb, which begins around the corner a few yards to the right of the Great Gully, is much spoilt by the exuberance of plant life. The first 200 feet lie altogether up a grassy slope or opening. There are steep, shelving rocks on the right, but these are not approached until an overhanging portion supervenes. Then the main feature of the Crescent begins. This is a traverse below the impending portion. The place is exposed, but the hand and footholds are ample, whilst the anchorage is all that could be desired. After crossing the rocks for about 60 feet, the heathery slopes can be gained that lead up to Jack’s Rake at rather more than half of its length. The deep, narrow rift of Gwynne’s Chimney will now be noticed right ahead, and this gives a splendid finish to the course. In fact, were it not for this attraction the Crescent would scarcely be worth the attention of climbers. The Chimney has walls of exceedingly rough rock, and an oblong-shaped mass of rock may roughly be said to divide it into two portions. The exit is made on the right, and an easy ridge leads upwards. There is plenty of indefinite scrambling until the highest point of Pavey Ark is reached.
The Buttress between the Great and Little Gullies at first sight suggests first-class climbing. Closer acquaintance, however, reveals the presence of so much vegetation and such an indefinite rock structure that the place is disappointing. The ascent had been made many years ago, but no record would appear to have been made until early in 1910, when the late J. Anton Stoop and Mr. Douglas Yeomans discovered a route, which has the merit of individuality. They started from the foot of the buttress about 50 yards to the left of the Great Gully, and adhered as closely as possible to the main ridge, gradually slanting up to the left towards the head of a small side gully which springs out of the Little Gully. The last 80 feet consisted of a vertical face, with a very conspicuous overhanging stone at the corner. The face was climbed by a chimney which had been seen from below, just to the left of the corner. The chimney consisted of two parts, with a chock-stone at the top. Above this the climb can be varied considerably; the upper rocks of Pavey Ark are famous for their wonderful gripping and ripping qualities, and they are here at their best.
A good deal of indefinite scrambling has been undertaken on the walls of the deep opening at the easterly end of the cliff—marked C on Mr. Jones’ line drawing facing p. 203. Two routes on the left-hand wall are worth passing mention. Gibson’s Chimney is a well-marked cliff in the upper part of the opening. Large cairns mark the start and the finish. There are two definite pitches, which in all afford about 50 feet of straightforward backing up practice.
Benison’s Chimney, which rises between Gibson’s Chimney and Rake End Chimney, is built on a different mould. It consists of a series of ill-defined scoops somewhat resembling the Shamrock Chimneys on the Pillar. The place is nearly 200 feet high. It reeks with danger and rank vegetation; moreover, loose holds occur at crucial points. The most difficult section occurs about 150 feet above the start. A steep bit of rock about 15 feet high has to be ascended. There is practically only one satisfactory hold on this stretch; the ulterior support is grass; and the base of operations is a quivering, turf ledge, which threatens to come away momentarily. Thus no help can be afforded the leader, whose troubles are further accentuated by a lack of anchorage. The writer trusts that few climbers will be attracted by Benison’s Chimney.
Gimmer Crag has of late years received much attention from rock enthusiasts. The shapely buttress is a conspicuous feature of the Langdale Pikes, especially when seen from the direction of Blea Tarn. The full height of the crag, which is singularly firmly weathered, is nearly 400 feet. It thrusts itself aggressively forth from the grassy spur which joins Pike O’ Stickle with Harrison Stickle. Yet, until the late Andrew Thomson, of genial memory, described its opportunities so recently as 1901, climbers scarcely seemed to realise the existence of Gimmer Crag. There are now three distinct climbs of exceptional merit and two important variations, whilst on either side of the main crag plenty of indefinite scrambling and short gully problems can be enjoyed.
The Gimmer Chimney.—This obvious cleft starts at the foot of the Crag to the right of, and lower down than the nose of, the buttress. The first serious difficulty occurs about 40 feet up, where the direct ascent of the chimney becomes impossible, and a traverse is made to the right. After an awkward upward movement has been made it is possible to force a way back into the chimney by swinging on a good handhold. The second obstacle is of the strid variety, followed by a shallow groove, with the best holds on the right wall. This gives out below a well-defined chimney, which is difficult to enter, being, as its engineering discoverer aptly described it, ‘bell-mouthed.’ Above this a traverse to the right is made, whence a chimney with holds on the right wall enables some grassy higher ledges to be reached. The final chimney is wide at the beginning, but narrows near the top, where a rib of rock protrudes and leaves a narrow but safe passage on the right.