Owen’s praise demands my Song,
Owen swift and Owen strong,—
Fairest flower of Roderick’s stem,—
Gwynedd’s shield, and Britain’s gem:
He nor heaps his brooded stone,
Nor on all profusely pours;
Lord of every regal art,
Liberal hand, and open heart.Big with hosts of mighty name,
Squadron’s three against him came;
This the force of Erin hiding,
Side by side as proudly riding;
On her shadow, long and gay
Lochlin plows the wat’ry way:
There, the Norman sails afar,
Catch the winds, and join the war;
Black and huge along they sweep,
Burthens of the angry deep.Dauntless on his native sands,
The Dragon [98b] son of Mona stands,
In glittering arms and glory drest,
High he rears his ruby crest.
There the thund’ring strokes begin,
There the press, and there the din;
Tal y Moelfre’s [98c] rocky shore
Echoing to the battle’s roar;
Check’d by the torrent tide of blood,
Backward Menai rolls his flood;
While heap’d the Hero’s feet around,
Prostrate warriors gnaw the ground:
Where his glowing eye-balls turn,
Thousand banners round him burn;
Where he points his purple spear,
Hasty, hasty rout is there;
Marking with indignant eye,
Fear to stop, and shame to fly:
There Confusion, Terror’s child,
Conflict fierce, and Ruin wild,
Agony, that pants for breath,
Despair, and honourable death.
The next expedition we shall recommend is a visit to the Llanllyfni Slate Quarries, and the Nantlle (or as they were formerly called the Bala Deulyn) Lakes, then proceed by Drws y Coed, to the Bethgelert road, and return by Quellyn Lake and Bettws Village to Carnarvon. Part of this rout, particularly from the Quarries to the main road, leading from Carnarvon to Bethgelert, will not admit of a four-wheeled Carriage, and it would be difficult to take even a Gig along that portion of it. The whole of this circuit, as before described, round the huge Mynydd-mawr, (a mountain which forms so remarkable a feature in the landscape from Carnarvon) will make a distance probably of about one and twenty miles. Persons who may be induced to examine this interesting part of the County, would do well to hire ponies at Carnarvon, and set off after an early breakfast; they would then be able to return by three or four o’clock. The first part of the journey, for two miles and a half, is along the Pwllheli road; about that distance, (a few yards beyond a small bridge) the turn on the left must be taken, afterwards the Slate Carts (of which the stranger will meet with a great number) will be a sufficient direction. It is thought necessary to mention these particulars, as there are neither mile stones nor finger posts to point the way, and but few of the country people understand the English language; the stranger would therefore act wisely to engage a good intelligent guide, well recommended by some gentleman resident at Carnarvon. Pont Seiont (above and below which the Scenery is very beautiful) is a bridge within a short mile of the town, and between which and Pont Newydd, (another bridge over the River Gwyrfai, a mile further,) there is a Manor belonging to the Bishop of Bangor, called Castellmai, the principal Freeholders in which, 1647, were the following, as appears by the Extent Book: Dr. Williams, late Archbishop of York, W. Glynn, Esq. John Bodvell, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. John Robins, Esq. William Spicer, Esq. Sir W. Williams, Bart. Richard Prytherch, Esq.; Parish of Llanfaglan, ditto, John Bodvell, Esq. Wm. Foxwist, Esq. Thomas Glynn, Esq. Hugh Griffith, Esq. Richard Prytherch, Esq. John Robins, Esq.: Llanwnda Parish,—William Foxwist, Esq. Hugh Gwynn, Esq. Thomas Williams, Esq. and Thomas Glynn, Esq.
There is a called Gwaredog, a little to the S.E. of the last mentioned bridge, which is celebrated (according to our Welsh Pedigrees) as the birth-place of the renowned Patrick, the Patron Saint of the Irish; has genealogy is thus given, in Bonedd y Saint, published in the Myvyrian Archaiology: Padric Sant ap Alfryd ap Gronwy ap Gwdion ap Dôn o Waredawg yn Arvon. Several other places contend for this honor, such as Abergwaun, or Fishguard, in Pembrokeshire; Ystrad Clwyd, (or Clyde’s Dale) in Scotland, and several places in Ireland. The river Gorfai is the boundary between the two Commots of Uwch and Is-Gorvai, in the Hundred or Cantrev of Arvon. About half a mile beyond Pont Newydd, on the right, is Dinas Dinoethny, the residence of Captain Jones.—This appears to have been one of the principal Roman Encampments in this neighbourhood, and to have had several small out-posts connected with it, which was the case also with Dinas Dinlle, a remarkable tumulus, or eminence, on the sea-coast, about two miles further, as well as with Craig y Dinas, on the river Llyfni, and Dinorwig, in the parish of Llanddeiniolen, before mentioned; a list of which, together with the subordinate Posts, connected with them, we shall hereafter insert. About a quarter of a mile beyond Dinas Dinoethwy, on the right, is Llanwnda, a small Church, dedicated to St. Gwyndaf. The Rectorial Tithes are annexed to the Headship of Jesus College, Oxford, and the small Vicarage, which is discharged and consolidated with the Chapel of Llan Faglan, dedicated to St. Baglan, situated near Aber menai, is in the Patronage of the Bishop of Bangor. The population of Llanwnda, in 1801, was 826, and of Llan Faglan 102. Near a small bridge, (as before-mentioned) called Glann y Rhyd, the Tourist will follow the left hand road until he arrives within a mile of the village of Llanllyfni, when he will again turn on the left, near a smithy, and proceed towards the Slate Quarries; and he will soon perceive, when he enters this little vale, that the Scenery here, as well as in most parts of North Wales, unfolds its beauty gradually as the traveller advances, until at last it displays itself in all its grandeur and magnificence. This Defile is bounded on the South and East by mountains of considerable height and magnitude, which assume a variety of shapes and characters as we proceed. It was from this narrow vale, which is but little known to strangers, that Wilson took his celebrated view of Snowdon, which has been so much and so deservedly admired; the situation was probably near the Nantlle Lakes, where Edward I. in the summer of 1284, resided for some days; and from thence issued several of his Edicts, some dated July 17, and others the 20th, and one from Carnarvon, as late as the 22nd of October in the same year, which shews what attention he paid to the establishment of governments in his new Dominions. The place which he occupied here during that time, was called Bala [103] Deulyn, and had been in the possession of the descendants of the Welsh Princes, ever since the time of Owen Gwynedd, as appears from authorities mentioned in Sir John Wynne’s History of the Gwydir Family, to which we have before alluded.
The principal Slate Quarries (which are near these lakes) are the Cilgwyn and Havodlas; here there is a Steam Engine, to supply the place of another, which lately fell into the quarry, and was broke; they are situated in the Parish of Llandwrog, (which we soon shall have occasion to notice in our progress to Clynog) and their produce is conveyed to Carnarvon. The variation in the size of the Slates took place about 75 years ago; before that time, they were all nearly of the same dimensions, and very small; but a larger sort having been introduced, it became necessary, for the sake of distinction, to give them a new name, and being doubled in size, and also in price, they were denominated Doubles, and one thousand of these were considered and accounted by the Workmen as equal to two thousand; the first sort was therefore distinguished by the name of Singles.—Some time after, another sort was introduced, increasing still in size, so as to double those called doubles, and were therefore called Double doubles, and the men counted every thousand of these as four thousand: afterwards a still larger sort was found necessary, and General Warburton, the proprietor of the Penrhyn Estate, being in the country about that time, is said to have given these last, the honorable name of Countesses; and the former, viz. the double doubles, he denominated Ladies; since that time two others of still greater magnitude have been added, which are distinguished by the names of Duchesses and Queens. The colour of these States, as well as those of Cefn Du, in the Parishes of Llanbeblig and Llanrug, though of an equally good, if not better quality, differ a little from those of Cae Braich y Cafn, or Mr. Pennant’s Quarry, the former being either of a brown cast, or red tinge, while the latter are of a dark blue. Some of the Welsh have supposed that an ancient prophecy of Merddyn ap Morvran, (or Merlinus Caledonius) received its accomplishment when these Quarries were discovered, and so many men employed, viz. That the time would come, when the rocks of Carnarvonshire would be converted into bread. It is to be regretted that the proprietors of these numerous Slate Quarries, do not unite together, and form a good Iron Rail Road, or tram-way, to Carnarvon, which though it may be attended with great expence in the execution, would eventually be productive of considerable advantage to the adventurers.—And as we are upon this subject, we cannot help lamenting another circumstance which proves a considerable diminution of the benefits arising from these sources of support and employment to the labouring Poor, viz. that so many accidents, by the sudden explosions of charges of Gunpowder, the falling of Stones, rubbish, and fragments of Rocks, &c. and breaking of ropes, whereby many of the workmen are lamed and maimed, and others lose their sight, and thus become chargable to different Parishes. It would be desirable therefore, to have a Fund for the relief of these poor sufferers; and for this purpose, the Proprietors, or their Agents, might easily establish a Club, or Friendly Society, towards which they should contribute liberally, themselves, and also make such an arrangement, that a small sum should be allotted, either weekly or monthly, from the wages of the Labourers, towards their support when incapacitated, either by casualties or illness, from following their usual occupation; and also for the purpose of procuring medical advice.
Llanllyfni, before mentioned, is a small Village on the road to Crickaeth, Penmorva, and Tremadoc.—It is a discharged Rectory, valued in the King’s Books at £7 17s. 6d. and dedicated to St. Rhediw, a Saint (says Mr. W. Owen Pughe) whose history is not known; he is supposed to have been buried here; and his well, his seat, the print of his Horse’s foot, and the mark of his Thumb on a Stone, are still pretended to be shewn. Near the upper end of this narrow pass are some Copper Mines, where some few workmen are employed, but the Vein is small, and the quantity of Ore hitherto obtained, though of a good quality, has been very inconsiderable.
The curious Visitor of these mountainous districts, will be induced, no doubt, before he descends into the Bethgelert road, to call at Drws-y-coed, a mountain Farm, near which, in a small Lake, known by the name of Llyn y Dywarchen, is the celebrated Floating Island, mentioned by Giraldus, and which he denominates insula erratica; what is dignified with the name of Island, is merely a considerable portion of the Turbery ground, on the side of this small Pool, undermined, and torn off, and adhering together by the entangling of the Roots, of such Plants as generally grow on Bogs and Morasses. Here may be found the Nymphœa lutea & alba, or yellow and white Water Lily, (and other Aquatic Plants) which are not uncommon in most of the Lakes in the vicinity of Snowdon. If the Traveller be so disposed, and the weather favourable, he will here have an opportunity of ascending Snowdon, from the Guide’s House, near Cawellyn (Quellyn) Lake; from whence there is a tolerable Horse Path till within a quarter of a mile of the apex, made for the purpose of bringing down Copper Ore from Bwlch glas, a gap, or opening between the two summits of Snowdon. This and the one along the side of Cwm Brwynog, in the Parish of Llanberris, (which we shall hereafter more particularly describe) are considered the two easiest and safest ascents; and along either of which, any person, who is a tolerable horseman, may ride a Welsh Pony, as far as the spot above mentioned.
We shall now conduct the Stranger to the Village of Llanberis, which on account of its singular situation, at the end of a Lake, in a narrow Vale, nearly at the foot of Snowdon, is well worth his attention. The distance from Carnarvon is about ten miles; the first five of which, so far as a place called Cwm y Glo, (though rough, uneven, and greatly injured by the Slate Carts) will admit of a Carriage; and from thence a Boat may be engaged. After travelling about a mile and a half from Carnarvon, we obtain a view of the River Seiont, and having proceeded along its banks a short way, we cross it, over a handsome Arch, built in 1769, by one Henry Parry, as appears by a stone in the Battlement, and where he is underservedly denominated the modern Inigo: afterwards we turn to the left; on an eminence to the right, at a little distance from the road, is Llanrug, [108] a small Church, dedicated to St. Michael, and formerly called Llanfihangel yn Rûg. Some years ago, the following little Sonnet was written on beholding this small structure, after a few weeks absence:
Oft as yon Fane presents its simple form;
That small shrill Bell, that duly tolls aloud
Each day of rest,—to call the rustic croud;
Yon aged Yew-tree, bending with the storm;
The thought recurs—that by indulgent Heaven,
This humble flock, to feed with constant care,
Their morals form, and truths divine declare,
To me unworthy, has the charge been given.
Then let me still, their faithful Pastor prove,
By precepts teach, and bright example lead
My flock the upward road, to bliss; and read
With fervor due His word, whose name is Love!
When thus my work is finish’d, and my race is run,
That Great, Good Shepherd may pronounce “well done.”
The extent of the Parish is about five miles in length, and two in breadth: the number of Inhabited Houses in 1811, was 158, and of Inhabitants, 682.—It is a small Rectory, and valued in the King’s Books at £5 12s. 6d. When arrived at the foot of a Hill, the road to the left must be taken, which leads to Cwm y Glo before mentioned, consisting of a group of Cottages, in a snug romantic situation, greatly and deservedly admired; and near them a small Harbour, for Boats employed in fishing, and bringing down Slate and Copper Ore.—On the top of the Hill, before we descend to this place, there is a circular Rock on the left, strongly fortified, which was probably a subordinate post to Dinas Dinlle, Dinas Dinoethwy, and Dinas Dinorwig, before mentioned, and which being at the entrance of this narrow pass, served to communicate any signal to Dolbadern Castle, which is situated on a Rock between the two Lakes, and from whence again, any notice, or intelligence of an enemy’s approach, was conveyed to the upper end of the Vale, and so on to Capel Curig, Dolwyddelen, &c. From this Rock there is a most grand and magnificent view, which on account of its opening suddenly and unexpectedly, has the effect of enchantment. Snowdon seems to soar in proud pre-eminence, and to look down upon the surrounding subject Hills with conscious superiority; some of which however, such as Erlidir, Garn, and Glydair, on the left, (or North of the Vale) Crib Goch, and Carnedd Higgon, on the right, appear to rival their Majestic Lord. This grand scenery,—this wonderful display of the works of the Most High, appears again to great advantage, as we enter the Lake from the channel of the River; but before we proceed, it will be proper to give a short account of a very extra ordinary personage, (Margaret ferch Evan,) who lived near this place, and denominated by Mr. Pennant, Queen of the Lakes.—He observes further, that when he visited her Cottage, at Penllyn, in 1786, she was about ninety years of age, and says, that she was the last specimen of the strength and spirit of the ancient British Fair; but the correctness of this remark may justly be doubted, as there is a Female, (Catherine Thomas) now living at Cwm glas, (about a mile above the Church of Llanberis) who is by no means inferior to Mr. P’s Heroine, either in strength or agility: the following anecdote related by herself, may be mentioned as an instance of her uncommon courage; some years age, as she was one day watching her Sheep on one of the Rocks near her house, she perceived a Stranger, (to all appearance a very strong, lusty man) enter in, and having remained there a short time, he departed; Catherine hastened home, and having examined her Cottage; she discovered that the Stranger had stolen a Silk Handkerchief, and several other articles of wearing Apparel; she immediately pursued him, and having taken in her hand the post of a small gate or wicket, and taking a shorter path, she overtook him near Gorphwysfa, almost at the upper end of the pass, (a most lonely situation) and having laid hold of him with one hand, she shook him well, in order to convince him of her strength, and then struck him with the club, or rather post, that was in the other, saying at the same time, You villain! how dare you enter into my house and steal my property? she then took from him his Wallet, and adding, Let me see what thou hast got in this bag? then emptying the contents, she took up her own property, and after giving him one or two more hard strokes, she charged him at his peril, never to enter that Vale again, otherwise he would not be suffered to depart without a much severer chastisement. The following is another instance of her extraordinary strength: Mr. Jones, the Agent of the Copper Mines at Llanberis, about eighteen years ago, was superintending the loading of Ore, near the small Quay, at the upper end of the Lake; and Catherine happening to be one of the Spectators, Mr. J. went behind her unperceived, and laying hold of her, jocularly said, “now Catherine, suppose I push you into the Lake;”—presently, she also got behind him; and though he was a tall, strong, lusty than, she laid hold of him under the Shoulders, and holding him up nearly at arm’s length, Now Sir, said she, suppose I drop you in? This extraordinary woman, who is of a very masculine appearance, and has a pretty long black beard, lives in a lonely Cottage, situated beyond the usual haunts of her fellow Creatures, and without a single inmate; and though her appearance is so unfeminine, yet she is humane, gentle and charitable, esteemed and respected in her neighbourhood. After this long digression, we hasten to relate the numerous qualifications, and uncommon exploits of her rival Amazon, the before mentioned Margaret ferch Evan, whose character I shall sum up in Mr. Pennant’s own words,—She was the greatest hunter, shooter, and fisher of her time; she kept a dozen at least, of Dogs, Terriers, Greyhounds, and Spaniels, all excellent in their kinds.—She killed more Foxes in one year, than all the confederate Hunts do in ten;—rowed stoutly, and was Queen of the Lakes;—fiddled excellently, and knew all our old music;—did not neglect the mechanic arts, for she was a good Joiner, and made Cards for dressing Wool; and at the age of seventy, was the best wrestler in the country, few young men daring to try a fall with her.—Some years ago, she had a Maid of congenial qualities, but Death, “that mighty hunter,” earthed this faithful companion of her’s; Margaret was also Blacksmith, Shoemaker, Boat-builder, and maker of Harps:—she could also mow Hay, shoe her own Horses, make her own Shoes, and build her own Boats, while she was under contract to convey the Copper ore down the Lakes. We must not forget, that all the neighbouring Bards paid their addresses to her, and celebrated the exploits of their beloved Margaret, in pure British verse; at length she gave her hand to the most effeminate of her admirers, (who was a harper) as if predetermined to maintain the superiority which nature had bestowed on her.
About half a mile to the North of Pen y Llynn, (or the lower end of the Lake) are the remains of Llys Dinorddwig, a house said to have been one of the Palaces of Prince Llewelyn ap Gruffydd; the walls high and strong, the hall twenty-four yards long, and before the house is a deep ditch, over which had probably been a drawbridge. Not very far from hence is a spot called Rhiw’r Cyrn, or the Brow of the Horns, where according to ancient usage, an Officer stood and blew his horn, to give notice to the Household of the approach of their Master, or to summon the Vassals to assemble on all emergent occasions. Near this place was discovered, about twenty years ago, a Stone, about Four Feet in length, one in breadth, and about Six Inches thick, with the following inscription, IMP Q TRO DECIO VS.—Persons going up the Lake may be landed either near the New Inn, or on the Meadow below Mr. Smith’s Cottage, or they may proceed to the extremity of the upper Pool, and walk from thence to the Village, which is about a quarter of a mile distant, and procure refreshment at Robert Closs’s, who keeps a small Inn there; the Landlord of this House, as well as Pierce Jones, who lives at the other Inn, are both very civil and obliging men, and will either act as Guides themselves, or will procure persons to attend any Gentlemen up Snowdon, or to any of the neighbouring Villages: Ponies may also be obtained at both these Houses: and though the accommodations may not be equal to what we generally meet with in large Towns, and on Public Roads, yet the Botanist, the Mineralogist, the Artist, the Angler, and in short every person who is an admirer of Nature, and is fond of the wonderful and sublime, will contrive to remain a few days in this romantic, though secluded spot. One Day may be well employed in examining Mr. Smith’s Quarries, yr Allt Ddu, and Clogwyn y Gigfran, and observing the men while at work, many of whom descend fifteen or twenty yards, by the assistance of two Ropes, (one about their middle, and the other in their hands) to a small ledge, over a dreadful precipice, where they continue engaged for many hours, in boring, or detaching considerable fragments from the main Rock, and ascend again in the same manner.—A visit to Twll Du, a stupendous roche fendue, or split Rock, near Llyn y Cwn, about three miles North of the Village, and mentioned by Mr. Pennant, might be recommended, as a very rational and pleasing amusement for the second Day: this might also include a walk over Glydair Fawr, to examine the immense columnar Rocks on Glydair Bach; and noticed by the same Gentleman, one of which it about 25 Feet long, and six broad; the summit of this Mountain is covered with groups of these columnar Stones, lying in all directions, and in some places piled one upon the other. From the two Glydairs’ may be seen several Lakes, such as Llyn Idwal, Llyn Bochlwyd, and Llyn Ogwen; and also the Great Irish Road, leading from Bangor Ferry to Capel Curig. From this eminence may also be surveyed that most singular Mountain called Trevaen, (trifurcated) which is more conical, more insulated, and more completely detached from all the surrounding Hills and Rocks, than perhaps any other in the Principality, and it is so steep on every side, that it is considered, even by the Shepherds, a Feat of great vigour, agility, and courage, to ascend this stupendous natural Pyramid; and there being two columnar Rocks on the very summit, about 8 Feet high, and nearly 4 from each other, and overhanging a most frightful Precipice, and the space on the top of each very confined, it is thought a proof of noble daring, to challenge each other to climb up, and step from one to the other; these stones, at a particular part of the Road from Ogwen Pool to Capel Curig, have the appearance of two men, and it is jocularly related by the Peasants, that a Gentleman once stood a considerable time expecting them either to move or come down. The Mountains in this part of Carnarvonshire, (observes Mr. Pennant) are of a stupendous height, mostly precipitous, the tops of many edged with pointed Rock; I have, from the depth below, says he, seen the Shepherds skipping from peak to peak, but the point of contact was so small, that from this distance, they seemed to my uplifted eyes, like beings of another Order, floating in the Air. And lastly Snowdon, will no doubt occupy one or two days more, in a most pleasing and agreeable manner.