There are three different Routs by which Strangers are generally conducted up this celebrated Mountain: the best, and most usual, is that commencing between the New Inn and Dolbadarn Castle, near the Bridge, and following the course of the River for about a quarter of a mile, and passing very near the Waterfall called Caunant Mawr, then turning to the left, and pursuing the Copper Sledge path-way, along the South slope of the ridge of Hills between the upper vale of Llanberis and Cwm Brwynog, as far as the Sheep-fold, and the Copper Mine at the upper end of Waun Cwm Brwynog; then turning to the left, (or North) and winding up the side of the slope or ridge, cross over till we are in view of the Llanberis pass, above the Church. During the first part of our progress, the view was confined, but here on this mountain flat, the prospect is extensive, particularly to the North West, where the greatest part of the Island of Anglesey is visible; and to the East, a portion of Denbighshire may be seen, between the mountains. We now begin to ascend Llechwedd y Re, the formidable slope above Llyn du yr Arddu, or otherwise, Clogwyn Coch, and Clogwyn du’r Arddu, the two precipices impending over that once black, but now green Pool; (from the effects of the Copper) after this last ascent is surmounted, the progress is easy, and the rise very gradual, for upwards of half a mile, till we join the Bettws, or Quellyn Copper Ore path, near Bwlch Glas gap, before mentioned; from thence to the peak the distance is something more than a quarter of a mile, and the ascent easy. There was a circular wall formerly on the summit, (which is not much more than from six to eight yards square) to shelter the visitors from the cold, but the Bethgelert Guide, named Lloyd, having collected a sum of money, (about five Pounds as it is supposed) from different Gentlemen; in order to build a small hut, or shed, he made use of the Stones for that purpose; but the miserable building which he erected, and which is nothing more than a heap of stones piled together in the form of a small Stack of Corn, could not have cost him more than twenty or thirty Shillings, and is on the east side, about ten yards below the apex; but at present is of no use, as it is nearly coming down:—Here it is usual for Strangers to leave their names inscribed on the ruins of this small Building.—Small stones are frequently found near this spot, bearing the impression of different Shells. From this elevated situation may be seen, in clear weather, the Wicklow Hills, on the West; the Isle of Man, and the Cumberland and Westmoreland Mountains, on the North and North East; and a part of South Wales to the South West: The best time for such a view are the months of June and July, when it will be necessary to be on the Mountain before Sun-rise, as mists and fogs generally collect soon after.—It would not however, be advisable for persons of a tender habit, or delicate constitution, to attempt such an arduous undertaking, particularly in the night: at the same time it may be safely asserted, that no person who is equal to the task, will ever have occasion to regret having ascended Snowdon, even in cloudy weather; particularly if the Sun should occasionally appear, as in this aerial region the scenery and the views are perpetually shifting and changing; and many have been known to prefer, a partially cloudy or misty, to a hot sultry day, (though tolerably clear) for such an excursion. We shall here beg leave to introduce some extracts from a Letter received by a young Lady, in which her Friend gives a very lively and interesting description of the pleasure she enjoyed on a visit to Snowden, in such weather as that above described: “My dear Friend,—I considered myself particularly unfortunate in not finding you at home, during my visit to North Wales; especially as I remained so long in your immediate neighbourhood. Perhaps you may recollect telling me, with what (I must confess) I then thought a prejudiced affection for your native scenery; ‘that no season or weather, could deprive Snowdon of its powers of amazing, and delighting.’ The truth of your remark forced itself into my mind, during two successive days, on which I ascended its lofty summit. The accounts of those two days, and the light in which my English feelings regarded your Country scenes, will, I trust, not be uninteresting. The morning destined for our first attempt, was ushered in by one of those intense fogs, which portend a sultry day; the late learned, worthy, and much respected Counsellor Dancey, was one of the party, and several Ladies and Gentlemen: I despair of conveying to your mind, any idea of the high-wrought expectations with which I commenced the ascent of this King of Hills, and never were expectations more fully answered. The variety, the constant succession of magnificent scenes, that gradually opened to our view, are absolutely indiscribable. You may conceive a group, (for we found other parties on the summit) of apparently aerial beings, standing on an elevated peak, literally above the clouds; for the glorious source of day, shed his Beams upon our heads, while our feet were enveloped in mist.—Picture to yourself the Sea, when agitated by a storm, suddenly arrested by an intense Frost, for such was, absolutely, the appearance, the congregated mists and clouds, represented to our astonished and enraptured eyes. In the course of about ten minutes, or a quarter of an hour, this irregular surface of waves began to break up and separate; and like an immense Army, sent advanced guards, and columns in different directions. The commotion, at the first breaking up, and the regular movements afterwards, were grand and magnificent beyond description. After these advanced guards (which were generally fleecy, transparent clouds, with fringes and festoons hanging in different fantastic shapes, and reflected Beams of the Sun, throwing golden tints upon their edges) came the main Army. Presently through the mist, several huge Mountains reared their Leviathan backs, and immense projections, appearing like so many capes and promontaries, stretching out into an endless Ocean; while other rocks assumed the appearance of small conical Islands, in this resplendent abyss. In a short time, these advancing Armies regularly encamped, or bovouack’d for the night, in the different passes, and excavations of the mountains; this was not all, for as we descended, while these beautifully transparent mists were quietly at rest, some hundreds of yards below us, we suddenly beheld huge gigantic shadows, thrown athwart the immense abyss. This was about fire in the evening, for with a reluctance similar to that of our great progenitors, in leaving Paradise, we lingered on the summit some hours. We stopped and gazed, our sticks and umbrellas were converted, by the reflection, into Goliah of Gath’s tremendous club or weaver’s beam;—we began to brandish these weapons, and to our great amusement and astonishment, our lengthened bulky shadows gently imitated our different movements. At length we tore ourselves from these grand and sublime scenes, and arrived by the dusk of the evening at the pleasant little Inn of Llanberris. Having been so much delighted the first, I was easily induced (undeterred by heat and fatigue) to join a party of friends, who were going up the following day;—about half way, we had a fine distant view of Anglesey, with the indentures formed in its coast by the Sea; a thick mist overtook us, and shut the fairy scene from our eyes.—We reached the summit completely enveloped in clouds, which gradually opening, the Elyssian Vale of Nanthwynant burst upon the sight; the clouds soon covered it again, but we were amply compensated by a view of an extensive tract of Sea and Land, terminated by the faintly marked outline of South Wales.—Soon another opening presented the romantic region of Capel Curig, which with the variety of Lakes that appeared on every side, with the Sun shining upon many of them, afforded a most enchanting coup de œil.—At this moment the attention of the party was most forcibly arrested by the appearance of our shadows reflected upon the mists, (but not so lengthened as the day before, as it was earlier in the afternoon) and encircled by three Rainbows of the most vivid and distinct colours.—The effect was beyond description. It was then that the thought of the great Creator of all these Wonders rushed upon the mind. What an awful, incomprehensible Being must He be, who with one word, formed these grand and magnificent scenes, and at whose nod, they shall crumble into dust!
These are thy glorious works! Parent of good,
Almighty; thine this universal frame,
Thus wondrous fair; Thyself how wondrous then!”
Parties generally take cold meat with them, and a bottle either of Wine, or Spirits, and dine at the Spring or Well near the side of the Quellyn Copper path, about two hundred yards below Bwlch Glas gap, where the Copper Ore Bin is situated.
Wyddfa, (pronounced Withva) is the Welsh name of Snowdon; and it is sometimes, though improperly, called Eryri, which appears to have been the general appellation in former days, of the whole range of mountains from Conway to Clynog: Two different derivations are generally given of the word Eryri, one is Eryr, an Eagle; and the other Eira, or Eiri, Snow; which is the most correct we will not pretend to determine, but it appears that the person who originally translated the word, considered the latter to be the genuine etymology. The distance from Dolbadern Castle to the summit, may be about six miles; two to the Turbary flat in Waun Cwm Brwynog, two to Clogwyn Coch Copper mine, and two from thence to the top. There are two other routs from the Village, which ought not to be attempted except by active young men; one up the steep declivity just above the Church, and the other through Hafn (pronounced Haven) Mawr, near the Old Bridge, (Bont Vawr). The height of Snowdon, above High-water mark at Carnarvon, is 3591 Feet.
Llanberis, in the Commot of Isgorfai, and Hundred of Arfon, is a small Rectory, discharged from paying tenths, and valued in the King’s Books at £4 18s. 9d. Patron, the Bishop of Bangor; Church, dedicated to St. Peris. The number of inhabited Houses in the Parish, in 1811, was 86; and the resident Population 438. Peris, to whom the Church is dedicated, is stated in our Welsh MSS. (Bonedd y Saint) to have been a Cardinal from Rome, who together with Padarn, (Paterninus) another Welsh Saint of congenial habits and disposition, it is probable, withdrew from the world to this secluded spot, as a place well adapted, according to the custom and mistaken ideas of those dark ages, for religious retirement and devotion: Peris fixed upon the upper Vale, which is still called Nant Peris; and Padern chose the lower, distinguished in Leland’s time by the name of Nant Padarn; as the properest situation for the erection of their respective cells.—Eglwys Padarn, (the ruins of which many persons now living recollect to have seen) was situated on a meadow, near the lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, on the left of the road in going from the Inn to the old Castle. Cadvan, another religious devotee, came from Armorica into Wales about the same time, and became Abbot of Bardsey. The upper Lake is about a mile in length, and a quarter wide, and is said to be twenty Fathoms deep particularly near a place called Diphwys:—and the lower Lake, called Llyn Padarn, is about three miles in length, and upwards of half a mile broad; both the Pools abound in Trout, and Char; Salmon are also frequently taken in them. Not far from the Church is the Saint’s Well, where a large Trout has for ages been exhibited to Strangers; his appearance is considered a fortunate omen, and his non-appearance the contrary; the present fish is about 20 or 30 years old; the wonderful Pass, and two Cromlech’s, about two miles above the Church, are well worth examining.—Some hopes are entertained, that the beauties of this little Vale, will in time be accessible to strangers, by the opening of a good Carriage Road this way to Capel Curig. An Old Woman, many years ago, is said to have made use of the hollow, under one of the before mentioned Cromlechs, (or fragments of Rocks) as her dairy, during the Summer months. The distance from the Village to Capel Curig, is about 8 miles; and to Bethgelert, through Nanthwynant, 11 or 12. The upper end of the Pass, is called Gorphwysva, or the Resting Place. There are three other Lakes in the Parish, besides those already mentioned, viz. Llynn Cwm Dwthwch, in which there are very fine flavored trout, and on which a small boat is kept for the use of anglers, by Pierce Jones, the Innkeeper. This pool is the source of the river Hwch, flowing near the Castle.—Llyn y Cwn, to the North, and Llyn Cwm Ffynnon, to the N.E. of the village; in the former are some aquatic plants, particularly the Lobellia Dortmanna—Subularia Aquatica—Isoetes Lacustris; and Twll Du, below it, is the habitat of numerous and rare plants: a great variety may also be discovered on and about Allt wen, above Mr. Smith’s Cottage, between the two Lakes, as well as on Clogwyn Du’r Arddu, at the upper end of Waun Cwm Brwynog, and on Clogwyn y Garnedd, which is the tremendous precipice immediately under Snowdon, to the North. The old Copper Mines, (Shafts, Levels, &c.) near the S.E. end of the upper Lake, also claim a visit, particularly from every Mineralogist and Geologist. At some distance below Llynn Du’r Arddu, nearly at the upper end of Waun Cwm Brwynog, may be observed a huge black Stone, or fragment of a Rock, called Y Maen Du yn yr Arddu; under or upon which, according to the popular superstition, if a person sleep a night, he will awake either a Poet or a Madman. The Gimlet Rock, near Pwllheli, the Studwall, (or St. Tudwal,) Islands,—the Promontory of Lleyn, (or Langanum Promontorium)—and Bardsey Island, at its extremity, may be clearly seen from Snowdon; as well as Cadair Idris Mountain, near Dolgelley, in Merionethshire, and Plinlimmon in Montgomeryshire.
The old Tower, or Castle, called Dolbadern, must at one time have been considerably larger, as the remains of other Towers, Walls, and Buildings are still visible.—It is supposed to have been erected about the beginning of the eleventh Century, or perhaps earlier, by one of the Welsh Princes, [126] for the defence of this strong Pass, and to be used occasionally as a hunting and fishing seat; for it is mentioned in the Welsh Histories, or Chronicles, considerably earlier than Edward the 1st. and there are some Welsh Poems still extant, which were addressed to Owen Goch (Rufus) during the time of his imprisonment in this Fortress by his Brother Llewelyn ap Griffith, last Prince of Wales, of the British line, which was from the year 1254 to 1277, being 23 years: The following is a part of an Ode, (Awdl) composed by Howel Voel ap Griffri ap Pwyll Gwyddel, lamenting the confinement of that Prince:
Duw mawr amerawdwr dyniadon,
Dillwng dy walch, terwyn-walch tirion,
Dewr Owain, den-rudd liw ffion,
Dur-goch Bâr, llachar, llawch Deon, &c.
“Great God, the supreme Governor of the World, release from captivity, the mild, the brave, the Lion-hearted Owen; with the ruddy Cheeks, and his bright-gleaming steel Lance, tinged with the blood of his enemies; the defender of all those who come to seek his protection;—he never dismissed the injured suppliant unredressed,—the reliever of the oppressed—the generous distributor of costly gifts. The Earth appears desolate, since he has been in confinement,—the hopes of his dependants are fled, and grief and disappointment will convey his friends and adherents to the gloomy mansions of the dead.—Daring, enterprising, successful, conquering General! He disdained to hoard up useless treasures.—He was the Idol and Delight of his Countrymen,” &c. See the remainder in the Myvyrian Archaiology already mentioned.
Another Poem, by the same Bard, begins thus:
Gwr sydd yn y twr yn hir westi,
Gwreidd, Teyrneidd, Teyrn-walch Ri,
Gwr a’m dothyw, gwall o’i golli,—o fyw
Gwreidd-liw, a glyw ei glodfori, &c.