This method has at the present time only historical interest, for the so-called roasting drums, as used in the preparation of coffee, are now universal.
Fig. 13a.
Roasting must be attended with the greatest care, in order that it may neither be too thorough nor insufficient. It is a great mistake to think that the roasting machine can be handed over to the care of any apprentice. That nicety of roasting which corresponds to the variety and its subsequent utilisation constitutes the qualitative basis of the chocolate manufactured later. It is impossible for even the best chocolate maker to retrieve what has been spoilt in this important preliminary operation, wherefore a skilled workman, endowed with a keen sense of taste and smell, is always to be seen at the roasting machine.
It has already been attempted to provide a means of security against over-burning by the construction of the so-called safety-roaster, about which will be spoken later.
Overroasting is immediately indicated by a disagreeable empyreumatic odour (resembling that of roasted coffee); the husks char and the kernels crumble, also betraying a charring on the outside. There is a correspondingly increasing keenness of flavour, and a transference of theobromine from the kernel to the husks (cf. page 65). From the destructive distillation of the cacao fat arises that volatile and pungent acroleine which is the principal cause of the empyreuma of the over-roasted bean.
Fig. 14.
The following general precautions in roasting cacao are worthy of note; 1. the beans should not remain too long in the roasting drum; 2. they should be kept on the stir, for which reason the apparatus is made revolvable on its axles; 3. the heat applied should be carefully regulated; and 4. to guard against a loss of aroma, the roasted beans should be cooled as rapidly as possible.
As the cacao must be more or less roasted according to its quality and ultimate destination, which entails the acquisition of considerable empirical knowledge on the part of the workman entrusted with this process, it would be neither advisable nor practicable to annex definite instructions as to time and temperature requirements.