By the side of the chapel were the palaces of Tupac Ynca Yupanqui, and other great buildings, besides many storehouses where they put the arms and fine cloths, with all other things paid as tribute by the Indians of provinces within the jurisdiction of Vilcas, which was, I have heard it said in other places, as it were the head of the kingdom. Near a small hill there were, and still are, more than seven hundred houses, where they stored up the maize and other provisions for the soldiers who marched that way. In the middle of the great square there was another form or seat, where the lord sat to witness the dances and festivals. The temple of the sun, which was built of stones fitted one on the other with great skill, had two doorways, approached by two flights of stone stairs, having, as I counted them, thirty steps apiece. Within this temple there were lodgings for the priests and virgins. The Orejones and other Indians affirm that the figure of the sun was very rich, and that there was great treasure in smaller pieces. These buildings were served by more than forty thousand Indians, divided into relays, and each chief understood the orders of the governor, who received his power from the Ynca. To guard the doorways alone there were forty porters. A gentle channel of water, conducted with much skill, flowed through the great square, and the lords also had their secret baths both for themselves and for their women. What may now be seen of all this are the outlines of the buildings, the walls of the chapels, the temple with its steps all in ruins, and other ruined buildings. In fine, it once was what it now is not, and by what it now is we may judge what it once was. Some of the first Spanish conquerors saw this edifice entire and in its perfection, as I have myself been told by them.[431]
From Vilcas the road passes to Uramarca, which is seven leagues nearer Cuzco, and here the great river called Vilcas is crossed, the name being given because it is near these buildings. On each side of the river there are very large stone pillars made very strong and with very deep foundations. From these pillars a bridge of ropes, like those used for drawing water with a wheel, is slung across the river. These ropes are so strong that horses may pass over with loosened rein, as if they were crossing the bridge of Alcantara, or that of Cordova. The bridge was one hundred and sixty-six paces long when I passed over it.[432] The river rises in the province of the Soras, which is very fertile, and inhabited by a warlike race. They and the people of Lucanas[433] speak one language, and go about dressed in woollen cloths. They possessed large flocks, and in their provinces there are rich mines of gold and silver. The Yncas esteemed the Soras and Lucanas so highly, that their provinces were favoured, and the sons of their chiefs resided at the court of Cuzco. There are store-houses in these provinces, and great numbers of wild flocks in the desert mountains. Returning to the royal road, the traveller reaches the buildings of Uramarca, which is a village of Mitimaes, for most of the natives were killed in the wars of the Yncas.
CHAPTER XC.
Of the province of Andahuaylas, and of what is to be seen as far as the valley of Xaquixaguana.
WHEN I entered this province of Andahuaylas,[434] the chief of it was an Indian named Guasco, and the natives were called Chancas. They go about dressed in woollen shirts and mantles. In former times they were so valiant, that they not only conquered other lands and lordships, but extended their dominions so widely that they came near to the city of Cuzco. There were fierce encounters between those of the city and these Chancas, until, by the valour of the Ynca Yupanqui, the Chancas were conquered. The captain Ancoallo,[435] so famous in these parts for his great bravery, was a native of this province. They relate that he could not endure to be under the yoke of the Yncas, and under the orders of his captains; so, after having performed great deeds in the districts of Tarama and Bombon, he penetrated into the depths of the forests, and his followers peopled the banks of a lake which is, according to Indian statements, down the course of the river of Moyobamba. When I asked these Chancas concerning their origin, they told me such another legend as did those of Xauxa. They said that their fathers were born in, and came out of, a small lake called Soclo-cocha, and conquered the country as far as a place called Chuquibamba, where they established themselves. After some time they strove with the Quichuas,[436] a very ancient nation, who were lords of this province of Andahuaylas, and conquered their country, which they have been lords of ever since. They held the lake out of which they came to be sacred, and it was their chief place of worship, where they prayed and made sacrifices. They buried their dead in the same way as the other Indians, and believed in the immortality of the soul, which they called Sonccon, a word which also means “heart.”[437] They buried women alive with the bodies of their lords, and also treasure and apparel. They had their days set apart for solemnising festivals, and places where they held their dances. As there are priests in this province labouring among the Indians, some of them have become Christians, especially among the young men.
The captain Diego Maldonado has always held these Indians in encomienda.[438] They all wear their hair long, and plaited into many very small plaits, with some woollen cords which are allowed to fall below the chin. Their houses are of stone.[439] In the centre of the province there were large edifices and store-houses for the chiefs. Formerly the Indians in this province of Andahuaylas were very numerous, but the wars have reduced them, as they have done the other Indians of this kingdom. The province is very long, and contains many large flocks of domesticated sheep. The part which is forest is not included within the limits of the province. This province is well supplied with provisions; it yields wheat, and there are many fruit trees in the warm valleys.[440]
We were here for many days with the president Gasca, when he marched to punish the rebellion of Gonzalo Pizarro,[441] and great were the sufferings of these Indians from the exactions of the Spaniards. The good Indian chief of this valley, Guasco, was very diligent in collecting supplies. From this province of Andahuaylas (which the Spaniards usually call Andaguaylas) the road leads to the river of Abancay, which is nine leagues nearer Cuzco, and this river, like many others, has its strong stone pillars, to which a bridge is attached.[442] Where the river flows, the mountains form a small valley where there are trees, and they raise fruit and other provisions in abundance. It was on the banks of this river that Don Diego de Almagro defeated and captured the captain Alonzo de Alvarado, general for the governor Don Francisco Pizarro, as I shall relate in the book containing the history of the war of Las Salinas.[443] Not very far from this river there were edifices and storehouses like those in all the other districts, but they were small and not of much importance.
CHAPTER XCI.
Of the river of Apurimac, of the valley of Xaquixaguana, of the causeway which passes over it, and of what else there is to relate until the city of Cuzco is reached.