FURTHER on is the river of Apurimac, which is the largest of those which are crossed between this place and Caxamarca. It is eight leagues from that of Abancay, and the road is much broken up by mountains and declivities, so that those who made it must have had much labour in breaking up the rocks, and levelling the ground, especially where it descends towards the river. Here the road is so rugged and dangerous, that some horses, laden with gold and silver, have fallen in and been lost without any possibility of saving them. There are two enormous stone pillars, to which the bridge is secured. When I returned to the City of the Kings, after we had defeated Gonzalo Pizarro, some of our soldiers crossed the river without a bridge, which had been destroyed, each man in a sack fastened to a rope passing from the pillar on one side of the river to that on the other, more than fifty of us.[444] It is no small terror that is caused by seeing what men pass through in these Indies. After crossing this river the place is presently seen where the buildings of the Yncas were, and where they had an oracle. The devil, according to the Indians, replied from out of the trunk of a tree, near which they buried gold, and offered up sacrifices.
From this river of Apurimac the road leads to the buildings of Limatambo,[445] and crossing the mountains of Vilcaconga (which is the place where the Adelantado Don Diego de Almagro, with some Spaniards, fought a battle with the Indians before he entered Cuzco) the valley of Xaquixaguana is reached, which is a plain situated between the chains of mountains. It is not very broad, nor long. At the beginning of it, is the place where Gonzalo Pizarro was defeated, and close by he and his captains were tried by order of the licentiate Don Pedro de la Gasca, president for his Majesty. In this valley there were very rich and sumptuous edifices, where the nobles of Cuzco retired to enjoy their ease and pleasure. Here, also, was the place where the governor Don Francisco Pizarro ordered Challcuchima, the captain-general of Atahualpa, to be burnt. The distance from this valley to the city of Cuzco is five leagues along the grand royal road. The water of a river which rises near this valley forms a large and deep morass, and it would be very difficult to cross it, if the Yncas had not caused a broad and strong causeway to be made, with walls on either side so strong as to last for a long time. In former times this valley was very populous, and was covered with crops, in fields which were so numerous that it was a sight worth seeing. These fields were divided from each other by broad walls, with the crops of maize and roots sown between them, and thus they rose up the sides of the mountains.[446] Many of these crops are of wheat, which grows well.[447] There are also large flocks belonging to the Spaniards who are citizens of the ancient city of Cuzco, which is built between certain hills in the manner and fashion that I shall declare in the following chapter.
CHAPTER XCII.
Of the manner in which the city of Cuzco is built, of the four royal roads which lead from it, of the grand edifices it contained, and who was its founder.
THE city of Cuzco is built in a very rugged situation, and is surrounded by mountains on all sides. It stands on the banks of two streams, one of which flows through it, and there are buildings on both sides. To the eastward there is a valley, which commences at the city itself, so that the waters of the streams which pass by the city flow to the east.[448] This valley is very cold, and there are no trees which yield fruit, except a few molles. On the north side of the city, on the highest and nearest mountain, there is a fortress which, for its strength and grandeur, was and still is an excellent edifice, although now most of it is in ruins. The massive foundations, however, with the principal blocks of stone, are still standing.[449]
To the north and east of Cuzco are the provinces of Anti-suyu, which contain the dense forests of the Andes, and also those of Chincha-suyu, extending towards Quito. To the south are the provinces of the Collao and of Cunti-suyu, of which the Collao is between the east and south winds, and Cunti-suyu between the south and west.
One part of this city was called Hanan-Cuzco, and another Hurin-Cuzco; where the most noble and ancient families lived. Another division was the hill of Carmenca,[451] where there were certain small towers for observing the movements of the sun,[452] which the people venerated. In the central and most populous part of the city there was a large open space, which they say was once a lake or swamp, but that the founders filled it up with earth and stones, and made it as it now is. From this square four royal roads led. That which they called Chincha-suyu went towards the coast, and also to Quito and Pasto. The second road, called Cunti-suyu, led to the provinces which are subject to this city, and to that of Arequipa. The third royal road, called Anti-suyu, goes to the provinces at the skirts of the Andes, and to some villages beyond the mountains. The last road, called Colla-suyu, leads to the provinces which extend as far as Chile.[453] Thus, as in Spain, the ancients made a division of the whole country according to provinces; and thus the Indians knew those districts, which extended over so vast a country, by the names of the roads. The stream which flows through the city has its bridges for passing from one side to the other. In no part of this kingdom was there found a nobly adorned city, except at this Cuzco, which was (as I have already said many times) the capital of the empire of the Yncas, and their royal seat. In all the other parts of the kingdom the people live in houses scattered about, and if there are some villages, they are without plan or order, or anything worthy of praise. But Cuzco was grand and stately, and must have been founded by a people of great intelligence. It had fine streets, except that they were narrow, and the houses were built of solid stones, beautifully joined. These stones were very large and well cut. The other parts of the houses were of wood and straw, but there are no remains of tiles, bricks, or lime amongst them. In this city there were many grand buildings of the Yncas in various parts, in which he who succeeded to the lordship celebrated his festivals.[454] Here, too, was the solemn and magnificent temple of the sun, called Ccuri-cancha, which was rich in gold and silver.[455] Most parts of the city were inhabited by Mitimaes, and laws and statutes were established for their conduct, which were understood by all, as well regarding their superstitions and temples, as in matters relating to government. This city was the richest of which we have any knowledge, in all the Indies, for great store of treasure was often brought in to increase the grandeur of the nobles; and no gold nor silver might be taken out, on pain of death. The sons of the chiefs in all the provinces came to reside at court, with their retinues, for a certain time. There were a great many gilders and workers in silver, who understood how to work the things ordered by the Yncas. The chief priest, called Huillac-Umu, lived in the grand temple.
At present there are very good houses, with upper stories roofed with tiles. The climate, although it is cold, is very healthy, and Cuzco is better supplied with provisions than any other place in the kingdom. It is also the largest city, and more Spaniards hold encomiendas over Indians here than elsewhere. The city was founded by Manco Ccapac, the first King Ynca; and, after he had been succeeded by ten other lords,[456] the Adelantado Don Francisco Pizarro, governor and captain-general of these kingdoms, rebuilt and refounded it in the name of the Emperor, Don Carlos, our lord, in the month of October of the year 1534.