As this nation of the Collao was so numerous, they had, in former times, great temples and superstitious rites, venerating those whom they set apart as priests, and who conversed with the devil. They held their festivals at the season when they got in their potatoes, which is their principal food, and then they killed animals as sacrifices. At the present time we do not know that they have any public temple, but, by the will of our God and Lord, many Catholic churches have been founded, where our priests preach the holy gospel, and teach the faith to all the Indians who desire to receive the water of baptism. I verily believe that if there had been no civil wars, and if we had sincerely and earnestly endeavoured to convert these people, many would have been saved, who have now been damned. At present there are priests and friars in many parts of the Collao, appointed by those who hold encomiendas over the Indians; and I pray to God that he will carry this work forward without weighing our sins.
The natives of the Collao say the same as all the other people of the Sierra, that the Creator of the world was called Huira-ccocha, and they know that his principal abode is in heaven; but, deceived by the devil, they adored various gods, like all the other gentiles. They have certain romances or songs in which they preserve the memory of their deeds, and prevent their being forgotten, although they have no letters.
Among the people of the Collao there are men of great intelligence, who reply to what is asked from them; and they take account of time, and know some of the movements both of the sun and the moon. They count their years from ten months to ten months, and I learnt from them that they called the year Mari, the moon or month Alespaquexe, and the day Auro. When they submitted to the Yncas they made great temples by their order, both on the island of Titicaca and at Hatun-colla, as well as in other parts.
CHAPTER CII.
Of the ancient ruins at Pucara, of the former greatness of Hatun-colla, of the village called Azangaro, and of other things which are here related.
NOW that I have related certain things that I was able to collect respecting the Collao as briefly as possible, I propose to continue my writing by giving an account of the villages along the royal road, as far as the city of La Paz, which is built in the valley of Chuquiapu, on the confines of the great province of the Collao.
Coming from Ayavire along the royal road, the traveller reaches Pucara (which means a strong place), four leagues from Ayavire. I remained a whole day at Pucara looking at everything.[492] It is reported by the Indians that there was formerly a large population in this place, but at present there is scarcely an inhabitant. The neighbouring Indians say that Tupac Ynca Yupanqui besieged the place during many days, for, before they could be conquered, the natives showed themselves to be so valorous, that they killed many people. When they were finally conquered, the Ynca ordered great stone pillars to be set up in memory of the victory. Whether this be really so or not I cannot say, but the Indians declare it. I saw the ruins of great edifices in Pucara, and many pillars of stone carved in the form of men, besides other things worthy of note.
The distance from Pucara to Hatun-colla is fifteen leagues, and on the road there are some villages, such as Nicasio, Juliaca, and others. In former times Hatun-colla was the principal place in the Collao, and the natives affirm that before the Yncas conquered the country, the chief Sapana and some of his descendants ruled here, who were so powerful that they gained many spoils from the neighbouring people whom they defeated in battle. Afterwards the Yncas adorned the place with new edifices and many storehouses, where, by their order, the tribute was received from the surrounding districts. There was also a temple of the sun, with many Mama-cunas and priests for its service, and a great quantity of Mitimaes and soldiers to watch the frontier, and to prevent any tyrant from rising against him whom they held as sovereign lord. Thus it may be affirmed that Hatun-colla was a grand place, as its name implies, for Hatun means “great” in their language. In these times all is in ruins, and most of the inhabitants have been killed in the wars.[493]
From Ayavire another road goes to Omasuyu, which leads round the other side of the great lake of which I shall treat presently, and nearer to the forests of the Andes. It passes by the large villages of Asillo, Azangaro, and others of less importance, and the country is very rich both in flocks and provisions. When the Yncas conquered this country, the people of these villages had large flocks of sheep. In the same district, in the forests of the Andes, is the famous and very rich river of Caravaya, whence, in former years, they took more than 1,700,00 pesos of gold of such fineness that it exceeded the standard; and gold is still found in the river, but it is only obtained with great labour, and by the death of the Indians who work in it, for the climate is unhealthy, though the wealth of the river is great.[494]