This country being low, and situated upon a bay of the river, it may be conjectured, [[201]]that this flat ground was formerly part of the bottom of the river, and formed itself, either by a decrease of water in the river, or by an encrease of earth, which was carried upon it from the continent by the brooks, or thrown on it by storms. A great part of the plants, which are to be met with here, are likewise marine; such as glass-wort, sea milk-wort, and sea-side pease[74]. But when I have asked the inhabitants, whether they find shells in the ground by digging for wells, they always answered in the negative. I received the same answer from those who live in the low fields directly north of Quebec, and all agreed, that they never found any thing by digging, but different kinds of earth and sand.
It is remarkable, that there is generally a different wind in the bay from that in the river, which arises from the high mountains, covered with tall woods, with which it is surrounded on every side but one. For example, when the wind comes from the river, it strikes against one of the mountains at the entrance of the bay, it is reflected, and consequently takes a direction quite different from what it had before. [[202]]
I found sand of three kinds upon the shore; one is a clear coarse sand, consisting of angulated grains of quartz, and is very common on the shore; the other is a fine black sand, which I have likewise found in abundance on the shores of lake Champlain,[75] and which is common all over Canada. Almost every grain of it is attracted by the magnet. Besides this, there is a granet coloured sand[76], which is likewise very fine. This may owe its origin to the granet coloured grains of sand, which are to be found in all the stones and mountains here near the shore. The sand may have arisen from the crumbled pieces of some stones, or the stones may have been composed of it. I have found both this and the black sand on the shores, in several parts of this journey; but the black sand was always the most plentiful.
August the 31st. All the high hills in the neighbourhood sent up a smoke this morning, as from a charcoal-kiln.
Gnats are innumerable here; and as soon as one looks out of doors, they immediately attack him; and they are still worse in the woods. They are exactly the same [[203]]gnats as our common Swedish ones, being only somewhat less than the North-American gnats all are. Near Fort St. Jean, I have likewise seen gnats which were the same with ours, but they were somewhat bigger, almost of the size of our crane-flies[77]. Those which are here, are beyond measure blood-thirsty. However, I comforted myself, because the time of their disappearance was near at hand.
This afternoon we went still lower down the river St. Lawrence, to a place, where, we were told, there were silver or lead mines. Somewhat below bay St. Paul, we passed a neck of land, which consists entirely of a grey, pretty compact lime-stone, lying in dipping, and almost perpendicular strata. It seems to be merely a variety of the black lime-slates. The strata dip to the south-east, and basset out to the north-west. The thickness of each is from ten to fifteen inches. When the stone is broken, it has a strong smell, like stink-stone. We kept, as before, to the western shore of the river, which consists of nothing but steep mountains and rocks. The river is not above three French miles broad here. Now and then we could see stripes in the [[204]]rock of a fine white, loose, semi-opaque spar. In some places of the river are pieces of rock as big as houses, which had rolled from the mountains in spring. The places they formerly occupied are plainly to be seen.
In several places, they have eel-traps in the river, like those I have before described[78].
By way of amusement, I wrote down a few Algonkin words, which I learnt from a Jesuit who has been a long time among the Algonkins. They call water, mukuman; the head, ustigon; the heart, uta; the body, veetras; the foot, ukhita; a little boat, ush; a ship, nabikoan; fire, skute; hay, maskoosee; the hare, whabus; (they have a verb, which expresses the action of hunting hares, derived from the noun); the marten, whabistanis; the elk, moosu[79] (but so that the final u is hardly pronounced); the [[205]]rein-deer, atticku; the mouse, mawitulsis. The Jesuit who told me those particulars, likewise informed me, that he had great reason to believe, that, if any Indians here owed their origin to Tataria, he thought the Algonkins certainly did; for their language is universally spoken in that part of North-America, which lies far to the west of Canada, towards Asia. It is said to be a very copious language; as for example, the verb to go upon the ice, is entirely different in the Algonkin from to go upon dry land, to go upon the mountains, &c.
Late at night we arrived at Terre d’Eboulement, which is twenty-two French miles from Quebec, and the last cultivated place on the western shore of the river St. Lawrence. The country lower down is said to be so mountainous, that no body can live in it, there not being a single spot of ground, which could be tilled. A little church, belonging to this place, stands on the shore, near the water.
No walnut-trees grow near this village, nor are there any kinds of them further north of this place. At bay St. Paul, there are two or three walnut-trees of that species which the English call butter-nut-trees; but they are looked upon as great rarities, [[206]]and there are no others in the neighbourhood.