History of New Brunswick

by Peter Fisher

River Miramichi.

This is one of the finest rivers for lumber in the Province. Its banks as well as the banks of the numerous streams that fall into it, are covered with pines of the finest growth, which appear to be almost inexhaustable, for although lumbering has been prosecuted on this river to a great extent for a number of years past, there is still abundance found by going a little back from the water. It is indeed the main source of the trade of the large County of Northumberland. One hundred and forty-one thousand three hundred and eighty-four tons of timber were shipped at the port of Miramichi in 1824. Rafts are taken down this river with the greatest safety to the shipping, which load at different places from the mouth of the river up to Fraser's Island. It has two main branches called the north-west and south-west, which run a great way into the country, and with their numerous streams lay open the inmost recesses of this extensive County. Several fine islands lay in the course of this river, covered with elm, ash, butternut, &c. which invariably denote the most luxurious soil. Its waters are well stored with excellent salmon and other fish, which are caught here in great abundance. There are several settlements along this river, none of which merit a particular description, the improvement of the country being neglected for lumbering. The branches of this river approach in several places very near to streams falling into the river St. John, which communicate by short portages. As I have never been able to procure correct information about the sources of this river or its length, I have not the means of satisfying the reader on these points, but must dismiss the subject with these few particulars, being all I could obtain.

As was observed in the commencement of this work, this country is so intersected with rivers, streams, and lakes, that with small portages persons can go to most parts of the Province in a canoe. There is a route from the Madawaska river to the Bay of Chaleur, and another from the river St. John by the Grand River, which is fifteen miles above the Great Falls, to the Ristagouche. The river Chicktahawk, which falls into the St. John near the Presque-Isle, runs near a branch of the Miramichi; a short portage connects the route. The route from the St. Croix to the St. John is first by a chain of lakes with short portages, and next by Eel river, which falls into the St. John about fifty miles above Fredericton. There is another route from the St. John to the Miramichi, by the way of the Jemseg, through the Grand Lake and up Salmon river, from whence there is a short portage to the river Etienne which falls into the Miramichi; with several other such communications where the streams of the different large rivers nearly approach each other.

The Mountains and Hills with which the Province is diversified, have nothing peculiar to merit a particular description, except Mars Hill, which has excited considerable interest, being supposed by the British Commissioners under the treaty of Ghent to be the height of land intended by the treaty of 1783, and that consequently the boundary line between the territories of the United States and the British Provinces should take a new direction at that place. This is resisted by the American Commissioners, who wish to prolong the line beyond that point. This is an object of great importance to the two powers, for should the line be continued in the old direction, which at this point approaches very near the river St. John, it would cross that river a little above the Grand Falls, and would not only separate New-Brunswick and Canada, but likewise give the Americans the upper part of the County of York which joins Canada, with a large Settlement of French at Madawaska—Mars Hill lies about six miles from the river St. John, on the western side, about one hundred miles above Fredericton. It can be seen from the high lands on the opposite side of the river, and appears at that distance majestically towering above the adjacent country. On approaching the mountain the woods are open and the ascent commences with an easy swell about half a mile from the main hill, after which the ascent is more abrupt, and in some parts nearly perpendicular. Having reached the crest, the spectator has a clear expanse of horizon, being completely above the surrounding country. From hence he views a boundless forest beneath his feet. The hills appear like waves covered with their green foliage of different shades, from the various sorts of trees with which their brows are covered. In different places the more elevated hills appear rising above the others like towers. Facing the river St. John, he beholds Moose Mountain at about nine miles distant on the opposite side of the river, which is nearly as high as Mars Hill, and perpendicular on the north side. To his left are a range of lofty hills on the Restook; to his right he has a distant view of Houlton-plantation, and in his rear, as far as his eye can reach, are the lofty Catardhan Mountains on the Penobscot river; the intermediate space exhibiting an undulating forest of boundless variety of hills and vallies, lakes, &c. The whole forming a grand and interesting spectacle. The Mountain is about three miles in length, very narrow, and divided by a hollow near the centre. A small spot has been cut down on each end of the hill, and a temporary observatory erected by the Commissioners under the treaty of Ghent.

The Americans have laid out a settlement in this part of the country, which takes in Mars Hill. The base of the mountain is washed by the Presque-Isle river, and other streams which fall into the river St. John.

The principal Towns in New-Brunswick are Saint John, Fredericton, and Saint Andrews; which on account of their importance and situation will be treated of separately. Leaving the other places to be noticed as they occur in the description of the several Counties, I shall proceed to give a short description of the situation, trade, public buildings, and institutions of the places just mentioned; commencing with the

City of Saint John.

The City of St. John is situated in the county of that name, on a rocky peninsula at the estuary of the river St. John, in lat. 45° 20′ north, long. 66° 3′ west. The city comprehends both sides of the river. The district on the eastern side of the harbour, formerly called the township of Parr, and Carleton on the western side. It is divided into six wards, two of which are in Carleton and four in St. John, properly so called. It contains, according to the late census, 8,488 inhabitants of all descriptions.

Like most English towns, the streets in St. John intersect each other at right angles. They are in some parts well built up, the houses being of different heights and joining each other for some distance, forming several fine ranges of buildings. The first houses in this place were constructed of wood, many of them were low and ill shaped. These when removed by fires or other causes, are generally replaced with handsome brick buildings, which is making a great improvement in the appearance of the city. The streets, likewise, which were formerly nearly impassable from rocks, hills and chasms, are rapidly improving; hollows have been filled up, and rocks cut away; so that although the hills in some parts are still steep, yet carriages drive through most part of the city with the greatest safety.

A projecting point near the entrance of the harbour, has caused the different parts of the city to be distinguished by the name of the upper and lower coves; the latter of which has been much neglected till lately, Government having built a handsome range of Barracks on the point fronting the Bay of Fundy, and removed the troops, &c. from Fort Howe to that station, it is beginning to improve.