From the northern point of the peninsula, Pointe des Hauts-Fonds, the reefs extend for three leagues to the North and North-North-West. They were then supposed to extend to the North-East.
The French only examined the western shores of Hamelin Harbour. The opposite coast was seen only at a distance, and the shoalness of the water prevented their boats from approaching it. M. De Freycinet says: "Ces terres, basses et steriles, ne contiennent aucune coupure; l'uniformite y est par-tout complete," page 194.
Although Hamelin Harbour is not so deep as that of Henry Freycinet, on the opposite side of Peron's Peninsula, it is nevertheless of larger size. The centre is much occupied by banks, which entirely surround FAURE ISLAND; the diameter of which is about two leagues.
Although many sandy beaches were seen at a distance upon the eastern shore of Shark's Bay, yet the boats of the French ships could not reach the shore on account of the reefs which front it. Here and there they distinguished red cliffs, and some signs of a scanty and burnt up vegetation.
Of the anchorages in Shark's Bay, the most convenient appears to be that in Dampier's Bay, at the north-west end of Peron's Peninsula, as well on account of the excellency of the holding-ground, as the facility of procuring fuel. The Naturaliste remained a long time at this anchorage, and never experienced any ill effect from the winds. The distance from the shore was six miles, and the depth six fathoms, fine sandy bottom. The sea was so clear, that the anchor was easily distinguished. The Naturaliste found only occasion to moor with a kedge, merely to keep the cable clear of the anchor. As the strongest winds were the South and East, the bower anchor was laid in the latter direction.
The above seems to be all that is worth taking from M. De Freycinet's account as regards the navigation of Shark's Bay. The coasts of the harbours of Henry Freycinet and Hamelin are much more detailed by him, and there is also much valuable information upon various heads, particularly as to meteorological observations, and the productions of the land and sea, and a curious example of the effect of a mirage; but as these subjects are irrelevant to the matter of this paper, they have been disregarded.
From POINT ESCARPEE to GANTHEAUME BAY, the coast is formed by a precipitous range of rocky cliffs, rising abruptly from the sea, to the height perhaps of three or four hundred feet. The coast is fringed with an uninterrupted line of breakers. The summit of the land is so level, and the coast so uniform, that no summits or points could be set with any chance of recognizing them. The depth at ten miles off the shore, was between fifty and seventy fathoms, decreasing to thirty-four in the neighbourhood of Gantheaume Bay.
GANTHEAUME BAY probably affords shelter on its south side from South-West winds: there was some appearance of an opening in it, but Vlaming, who sent a boat on shore here, has not mentioned it; and if there is one, it is of very small size, and unimportant. The shores of the bay are low and of sterile appearance.
RED POINT, a steep cliffy projection, is the north extremity of a range of reddish-coloured cliffs, of about two hundred feet high, that extends to the southward for eight miles, when a sandy shore commences and continues with little variation, except occasional rocky projections and sometimes rocky bays, as far as Cape Burney. The coast is moderately high, and, in the interior, some hills of an unusual height for this part of the coast are seen. MOUNT NATURALISTE is in latitude 28 degrees 18 minutes, and between the latitudes 28 degrees 25 minutes and 28 degrees 55 minutes, is MORESBY'S FLAT-TOPPED RANGE. It is terminated at the north end by three hills, called MENAI HILLS; and at the southern end, by the WIZARD HILLS. MOUNT FAIRFAX is in latitude 28 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 114 degrees 38 minutes 45 seconds. The coast in front of this range is of pleasing and verdant appearance; two or three small openings in the sandy beach, with an evident separation in the hills behind, particularly one in latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes, bore indications of rivulets; and the smokes of natives' fires, and the more wooded character of the coast, showed that the country was evidently more fertile and productive than any other part between Cape Leeuwin and the North-west Cape. The bottom at from ten to twelve miles off, is from twenty to twenty-five fathoms deep, and composed of a fine sand, of a dark gray colour.
CAPE BURNEY is in latitude 28 degrees 56 minutes: four miles to the southward is a reef, apparently detached from the shore.