CHAPTER XIII.
His Tour On The Continent In 1844.
In 1844 he became so nervous and weak that he was forbidden exertion of any kind; his ailment is manifest in his tremulous handwriting. On medical advice, he takes a tour on the Continent with Mr. and Mrs. Phillipps and their children. His account of this tour is preserved in a Journal, and we think it well to give it entire, without any compression.
On Wednesday, July 3rd, 1844, I set off from Grace Dieu Manor for a tour on the Continent with my dear friend, Ambrose Phillipps, his wife, his two eldest boys, Ambrose and Edward, and John Squires, his servant. He took his carriage, in which he and his family sat on the railway from Loughborough to London, while I went in a second-class carriage. We arrived at the Burlington Hotel, and dined about 7 o'clock. Afterwards we went out different ways. I called at Dr. Griffiths, but he was not at home. I had tea with Dr. Maguire, whom I found at home; we had an hour's talk, about the Oxford men principally. Got home about 10.
Thursday, July 4.—Went with the Phillippses to Father Lythgoe's, in Bolton Street, where I said mass, and breakfasted at 10. I went to see Dr. Chambers, in Brook Street, being ordered by Dr. Wiseman to consult him as to the propriety of taking a long tour, as is proposed by Phillipps. Dr. Chambers recognized me at once, as I used in 1824 or 1825 to follow his visits to the patients in St. George's Hospital, with a view to learn medicine. He judged it quite necessary that I should have at least three months' absence from work, and approved of my travelling with moderate exertion. So I am fixed at last to set off. God knows how I shall go through. The present plan is to go through Belgium, to Munich, the Tyrol, Venice, Milan, Turin, Lyons, Paris, and home; and my purpose is to get prayers for England's conversion, and to see men rather than places and things. After Dr. Chambers, I went to the Bank, to get my letter of credit, then to Buckingham Palace, to see my sister. After I had waited a half-hour she returned from her drive, and took me to her nursery apartments at the top of the house. I had my first glance at Prince Albert, going out to ride with Colonel Bouverie. From Sarah, I went to Lyttelton's house, 39, Grosvenor Place, where I found Caroline Lyttelton was expected home in an hour, and so I went on to call on Sisk, who was out, and I came back and saw Lyttelton, with whom I went in his carriage towards the House of Lords, and was set down in St. James's Street. On the table in Grosvenor Place I saw what I was 21 years ago, in a miniature painted by Ross—a blooming rosy youth. I did not believe it till Caroline told me. I came to dine with Sarah at 8, and staid till 10. Our conversation was most interesting, about the Queen and the children, and the great people from abroad, &c., whom she saw; above all, the Czar and the Duke of Wellington. She set me down at our hotel at 10½, after calling at Neville Grenville's, where I saw Lady Charlotte and a large family.
Friday, July 5th.— Mass and breakfast as yesterday. About 11 started for Dover, in the same order as from Loughborough; arrived at 5. I went to call on Mr. Savage, the priest, my old companion at Rome. He does not seem a movement man. He came to tea with us.
Saturday, July 6th.— As the packet was to start at 7, I missed saying mass. As it happened, we had to wait on board till 9 for the mail. We had intended to cross to Ostend, but Phillipps, getting afraid of the long crossing for sickness, so we all agreed to prefer the shorter-by-half passage to Calais. We had a good passage, but we all were miserable; the two boys were very sick. However, as the French boatmen assured us, the tread of the dry land of France worked wonders to cure us all. We went to Dessin's Hotel. I was full well reminded of September, 1819, my first landing in France, and of divers other epochs, Sept. 1820, Nov. 1820, and Feb. 1830. Before dinner we went to the church to give thanks, and commend our future to God. I asked le Suisse de l'Eglise (the verger) to pray for England. Nothing else done at Calais. We started in the afternoon for S. Omer, which we reached late. The country we passed was very fertile; for the first time I have seen cultivation which struck me as superior to English; the state of the people is manifestly more happy and prosperous. After tea I went to the Grand Vicaire, M. Dumez, to ask leave for mass, &c. I had forgotten to get credentials from Dr. Wiseman, and so he hesitated, but gave the celebret. I went on, though tired, to M. Durier, Curé de Notre Dame, who received me most cordially, and on my stating my errand, pressed me to preach at the high mass on the morrow. I hesitated, but he came with me to our hotel, and Phillipps joined in pressing it, and so I wrote a quarter of an hour's worth before going to bed, hoping I was not out of rule, but doubting.
Sunday, July 7.— Said mass at Notre Dame, a fine Gothic church; went home to breakfast, and back to high mass at 9½. After the Gospel, M. Durier first read the annonces, the Epistle, and the Gospel, and introduced my object to the people. Then I went into the pulpit, and made my address without any difficulty. He then rose opposite to me, and pledged himself and his flock to pray for England. After mass, I went a round of the convents of the town with an old man sent from one of them with me. The convents which promised their prayers were the following:
Les Ursulines, 37 nuns; 300 scholars.
Les Soeurs Hospitalières de S. Louis.
L'Hospice de S. Jean, served by nuns.
L'Hôpital Général des enfants trouvés, &c.
Les Religieuses de la Sainte famille.
Le Couvent du Saint Sacrement,
where are only 3 nuns, the Superioress an Englishwoman, who observed that in her profession, when prostrate—a time when it is said the chosen prayer is sure to be granted—the first thing she asked was England's conversion.
Les Frères des Écoles Chrétiennes.
The Superior promised to recommend the prayers to his brethren of 30 houses in this district, who meet in August for a retreat.