"We proceeded at 3 to Lille, stopping at the exit from St. Omer to see the ruined Abbaye de St. Bertin. We stopped at Cussel, a place on the top of a mountain commanding a grand prospect over a vast plain richly wooded and cultivated. The maître d'hôtel wanted us sadly to stay, but we went on, after a walk to the top of the mount, and to the church. We came late to Lille, and not finding room at l'Hôtel de l'Europe, we put up at l'Hôtel de Gand, not a very nice one, in the Grande Place.
Monday, July 8.— I first went to the Church of St. Catherine, to see Abbe Bernard, my friend, introduced by Mrs. Canning. He was gone, yesterday, to Paris. I then went to Rue Royale, No. 61, memorable for ever as the direction to which my letters from Brington to Miss Dolling were addressed. M. Friot Chombard, who lives there, was also absent from Lille. I then went to the Church of St. Étienne, where the Grand Doyen lived; and, having seen him, I said mass. I then called on him in his house, and obtained his promise to advocate the cause of England. After breakfast, I went to the Church of St. Maurice, which is called the Cathedral. It is the first I have seen with four aisles. I saw nothing more in Lille; we left it about 12, and reached Tournay about 2. I went at once to the Évéché, where I found the Bishop's Secretary, who took me to a great convent of nuns, which the Bishop has founded, and is building this house for. It is to contain sixty nuns, and a great number of pensionnaires. I was presented to his lordship in the garden, and obtained a full promise of his patronage of the cause of England. I came back to dine at the Hotel (du Singe d'Or); to my surprise and pleasure, Talbot came in with Phillipps, who had met him in the Cathedral. After dinner, he and I took a carriage and went to see the Passionists au Château d'Ere, about three miles off. Le Père Pierre, Superior of the house, received us with all kindness. He has three companions priests, and three brothers. They were building a church of good size, and seem to prosper; but he complains that no postulants come; they have received not one cleric yet. He thinks they fear the bare feet. He came back with us to Tournay, to see Phillipps. Soon after, we started on our way to Brussels; still by post horses, as all the way from Calais. We stopped at Alte to sleep. The hotel was one of the most agreeable and cheapest, though small.
Tuesday, July 9.— There are two churches at Alte. I went to St. Julien's, and said mass. Afterwards I introduced Phillipps and Madame to the Doyen, M. Picquart, who was most pleasing and full of knowledge, and promised all for England. We here had a contest with John, which threatened his being sent home, but he came round before the day was out. We started at 10 for Brussels. The country not equal to France. We came to the Hôtel de Belle Vue, in the Place Royale. Having engaged a suite of rooms, we sat down at once at the table d'hôte. After it, I went to seek for the Abbé Donnet, to whom I had a note from Seager. He was out. I then went to Ste. Gudule, the cathedral, and saw the Vicaire, a Dutch priest, with whom I settled to say mass to-morrow. Then I took a vigilante (i.e. a cab) to the College de St. Michel, of the Jesuits, where I saw the Second Superior. Then to the Redemptorists, where the Superior took up the cause warmly. Home to tea.
Wednesday, July 10.— Went at 7 to Abbé Donnet; then to mass at Ste. Gudule. At 9, Abbé (Chanoine) Donnet called, and, after an hour's talk about Oxford, took us to Monsignor Pacci, the Pope's Nuncio, Archbishop of Damietta. He is a most holy-looking man; conversed with us most kindly; knew much about the Oxford people; promised his help. I then let the Phillippses go their way, intending to make a day of canvassing convents. But M. Donnet took me only to three, and then had to go his way at 12. The three were:—
Soeurs de Notre Dame, Rue de l'Étoile, 14 nuns.
Pauvres Claires, Rue de Manige, Maison Mère a Bruges, 13 nuns.
Couvent de Bellaymont. Chanoinesses Régulières de St. Augustin. Unique Maison.
After this, I went to Ste. Gudule, and met Phillipps, with whom I went to the Jardin Botanique, and to the hospital for old men. It is a grand establishment, by private charity. It contains 700 old men, of whom 100 pay for themselves; the rest are kept free, and with wonderful regard to their comforts. I called on a curé close by, thinking to get the prayers of these vielliards; but he took me for a begging priest, and turned me out of doors. Deo gratias. Thence to the Musée, a collection of pictures, which hardly paid the trouble of looking at. After dinner at the table d'hôte, we took a carriage to go to Jette St. Pierre, to meet the Cardinal Archbishop of Malines, at the Convent of the Sacré Coeur there. On the way we saw an interesting church; outside was a tomb of Madame Malibren. At Jette, Madame de Wall, my friend of 1832 at Bordeaux, introduced us to the Cardinal. This was a consolation indeed. He undertook to recommend England to all the Bishops of Belgium, invited me to their meeting on the 29th July, and promised that all their priests and convents should engage in the cause. This is a noble convent. Madame de Wall said they prayed for England every half-hour in the day.
Thursday, July 11.— Said mass at St. Jacques, in the Place Royale. Went to Malines by the chemin du fer, Phillipps in the carriage on a truck, I in a char-à-banc. Arrived at l'Hôtel de la Grue just in time for the table d'hôte, on which I only remark the immense length of time taken to dine. After it, we went to the Petit Séminaire, where we were warmly greeted by the Abbé Bonquéan, our friend of Oscott and Grace Dieu. He took us about to a few places; and at 5 to the Salut, at the Cathedral; after which he introduced Miss Young, the convert, sister to Isabella. She went with us to Hanicq's, the printer's, and to a fine old church, &c. I visited no convents, reserving this for my return. Opposite our hotel, the grand Theatre des Lapons forced itself to be noticed till late at night.
Friday, July 12.— After mass and breakfast, we went to visit the Cardinal Archbishop, who graciously gave me a paper of testimonial, which will, I hope, save some trouble. His countenance and manner are highly prepossessing. At 12 we started for Antwerp, by railway, leaving the carriage at the station at Malines. We arrived at the Hôtel St. Antoine, just in time for the table d'hôte at 2. There I met Mr. Blore, with his daughter, now grown a fine young woman. After dinner, to the Cathedral. I need not speak of the glorious tower, 466 feet high. What attracted our attention most was the wonderfully beautiful restoration of the stalls in oak carved work; 40,000 francs have been spent in this already, and not half the stalls are finished, and this actually in process of work is more pleasing to see than the most beautiful morsels of ancient work, for the promise it gives of better days. The pulpit is a mass of exquisite carving, in a style seemingly favourite in this part of Belgium. The most beautiful we saw was at Brussels, Ste. Gudule, where, below the preacher, are seen Adam and Eve banished from Paradise; and above, the head of the serpent, who winds round the pulpit, crushed by Mary. The same style of carving is around the pulpit at Marines, Louvain, &c., but is seen no more at Liége. After seeing the cathedral, we went to the Musée, containing first-rate specimens of Rubens, citizen of Antwerp; as also of Van Dyke and Quintin Matsys, of whom there is an excellent picture of the Descent from the Cross. Finding myself near the College of the Jesuits, I went in and saw the Rector, who took up our cause zealously. He walked home with me to see Phillipps, and they soon got intimate.
Saturday, July 13.— After mass in the cathedral, we went, by last night's appointment, to visit the Superior of the Jesuits, who showed us his house. Then, Phillipps going to see some churches, &c., I went with a lay brother, given me for guide by the Superior, to visit convents.