Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia / An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia

by R. N. Hall

Morgenster is also celebrated for the immense panoramic view of the Motelekwe Valley, extending for at least forty miles, where the tumbling sea of rugged kopje summits fades into the blue distance. The view is so extensive, impressive, and grand that one can never tire beholding it. As far as the eye can reach the land can be seen descending towards the south. The nearest point of the Motelekwe River to the mission is four miles. There are a great many villages in the valley.

A peculiar interest attaches to this view of the Motelekwe Valley, for along it appears to have been the main route of the ancient gold-seekers from the coast to Zimbabwe, and so into the interior of the country. Along the Motelekwe is a chain of ruins (see Ancient Ruins of Rhodesia), of which the Mapaku Ruins, eight miles east-south-east of Zimbabwe, are the nearest. Some of these ruins are of major importance, and two at least are decorated with the chevron pattern, and occupy areas almost as large as the main ruins at Zimbabwe. This line of forts, or “blockhouses,” is extended along the Sabi River for a considerable distance into Portuguese territory. In viewing this valley from Morgenster, the thought that within sight lies one of the ancient roads to the coast, and that along it passed the gold- and ivory-laden caravans, makes the contemplation of the Motelekwe Valley one of absorbing interest.

The sharp-cut kopje with steep glacis sides, about a mile and a half south of the mission, is Rugutsi. This divides the scenery of the Motelekwe from that of the Mowishawasha Valley on the south. This also is a fine view, but not so extensive as that of the Motelekwe Valley. An absolutely bare, granite, balloon-shaped kopje lies to the west.

Two miles due south of the mission, in the Mowishawasha Valley, is a natural stronghold known as Wuwuli.

WUWULI

This village, which is two miles south of Morgenster, is situated in a deep and narrow ravine immediately west of the Rugutsi Kopje, which forms such a prominent feature in the landscape of the Mowishawasha Valley, as seen from the mission. Formerly this place was of considerable importance to the local Makalanga, for during the times of the Matabele raids the natives between this place and Zimbabwe took refuge in the very extensive caves which run under the north side of the ravine. A strong perennial stream flows through the caves. Here, in time of danger, women, cattle, and grain were hidden. When Mr. and Mrs. Bent visited this village, in 1891, the natives were opposed to their inspecting the caves, and they were only permitted to go a certain distance inside. Now that raidings have ceased the caves are deserted, save for bats, and we were permitted to view the caves without any demur on the part of the villagers.

The present chief is Bungu, a brother of the present dynastic chief Mogabe by another mother. The former Mogabe, Chipfuno, resided at this kraal as well as at Zimbabwe, and it was here he was shot in 1892.

When visiting this village we saw a man undergoing a cure by blood-letting. Incisions were made in the flesh of the leg, and horns of yearling cattle placed over them. The air was then sucked out of the horns through small holes in the top, and the holes were then stopped with wax. The horns clung to the flesh, owing to the vacuum which drew the blood. Bungu’s attention was drawn to an old iron-smelting furnace, on which was the usual female breast and furrow pattern. He said the natives did not smelt iron now because they could buy their garden hoes from the white men, and they were therefore saved the trouble of making them.

MOJEJÈJE, OR “MYSTIC BAR”

There are two of these mystic bars at Zimbabwe, one being on the Motelekwe Road, a quarter of a mile east from Havilah camp and opposite Middle Kopje (Chamananga), and the other about a mile from Zimbabwe, on the path to Bingura’s. The one on the Motelekwe Road is formed by a bar of aphite crossing a granite glacis, over which the road passes, but the one on Bingura’s Path is an arbitrary line drawn across a piece of granite, over which the path crosses. Each bar is at right angles to the path. At either end of each bar is a pile of stones, which show evident signs of having been hammered upon the bar for generations past. A native on a long journey, arriving at one of these bars, will take a stone from the pile on one side and with it tap the whole length of the bar, and lay the stone on the pile on the opposite side. Natives crossing the bar in passing between their kraals and their plantations, or going a short distance only, do not tap the bars. The idea in so tapping the bar is that by so doing the back is strengthened for the journey, and also that the man they are going to see may be at home, that the food will not be cooked till they arrive, and that their journey may be successful. There is no appeal to spirits or ancestors in performing this act.