Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia / An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia

by R. N. Hall

MOTUMI’S KRAAL

This kraal is about one mile west of Bingura’s, and is situate in open country and is worth visiting. Motumi is a very good specimen of a Barotse headman. He is fully seventy years of age, but is still hale, hearty, and straight. The features of the people at this kraal are very fine, and most of the men and boys are well-made. They are a very industrious people and never seem to be idling in their kraal. Motumi is above the average native in intelligence and can give an account of what is now Matabeleland long before the Matabele arrived, with long lists of place-names in that country as then known. Matgwain, his eldest son, is exceptionally intelligent. Motumi’s people speak Chicaranga, and most of their characteristics and customs are also those of their neighbours, the Amangwa, to whom they are allied by long generations of marriages.

CHIBFUKO

This hill adjoins the Mowishawasha Hill, which is about seven miles west-south-west of Zimbabwe. Washa is always associated in the mind of the natives with power and authority. Chibfuko is never ascended by the natives. Either the hill itself, or something on it, causes them to revere or dread it. They never pass by without kneeling and clapping hands to it. It is said that they hear girls singing on its summit. The hill has a few caves highly suggestive in appearance of ancients and hidden relics. In this district valuable relics taken from the ruins have been discovered. Mr. Drew, Native Commissioner, is of opinion that many generations past some powerful Makalanga chief must have been buried on the hill and that this originated the native awe for the place, but the natives will not divulge the reason. To reach the hill Bingura’s path must be taken.

CHIPADZI’S KRAAL

This kraal is three miles south from Zimbabwe, and it may be visited on the same round as Suku Glen, Lumbo Rocks, and Morgenster. The walk is an interesting one, but there is nothing of note in the kraal itself, save the view of the Mapudzi Valley which it overlooks. The Morgenster path must be taken for 1,000 yds. south of the temple, where a well-defined native path branches off to the south-east. Later the path descends into a long, narrow valley till it approaches the kraal. The scenery in this valley is very fine. A small perennial stream, which at one point disappears under the ground for a quarter of a mile, flows down the valley, and on either side of it are palm trees and tree-ferns, each with a trunk some 3 to 8 ft. in height, also large areas covered with the royal fern (Osmunda regalis). Mahobohobo trees are plentiful, and orchids are abundant on the branches of the larger trees. The kraal comprises about a score of huts. There is a very grand view towards the east of the Mapudzi Valley down which flows the Mapudzi, a stream which has its rise on the east side of the Elliptical Temple. The ravine is at least 200 ft. immediately below the kraal which overlooks it. The two large and prominent kopjes on the south are Moroma, the nearer one, and Rugutsi. Morgenster is one mile west on the summit of the high land on that side.

MAPAKU, OR “LITTLE ZIMBABWE”

A walk to these ruins is one of the most interesting in the vicinity of the Zimbabwe. They lie south-east of Zimbabwe at a distance of less than eight miles, and the path runs through the romantic scenery of the Beroma Hills and the Motelekwe Valley. The best way to reach the ruins is through Chenga’s kraal, past Mandiara’s, which overlooks the lower country on the south side of the Beroma Range, and past the picturesquely situated kraal of Mapaku, which is at the foot of a tall cliff a quarter of a mile north-west of the ruins. The ruins are not extensive (see description of Mapaku Ruins, chapter xxi.), but are well worth inspection. To return to Zimbabwe the path may be taken to some large pools in the Motelekwe River, and from there through Gobele’s kraal near to, and on to, Chipadzi’s kraal, which is about three miles from Zimbabwe. Making the round journey as suggested enables the visitor to see native life as it is lived beyond the ordinary tracks of the white man. The best time of day to take this walk is to start just before sunrise and arrive at the ruins before the heat can be felt, and so return to Zimbabwe in good time for lunch.

SCHLICHTER GORGE

This is the ravine a mile to the south-west of Zimbabwe, down which flows the Mapudzi stream southwards. The walk in certain parts is somewhat rough, while in the rainy season owing to swollen tributaries and dense jungles of tall reeds it is almost inaccessible. To approach it one takes the path down the valley at the south foot of East Ruins, and directly east of Maund Ruins, and follows a small stream, the banks of which are shaded by trees and covered with royal fern. In the dry season there is very little water flowing, but there are always small pools. The path crosses this stream at its junction with the Mapudzi, the right bank of which must be taken. Where the sides of the valley close in the rocky sides of the hills must be climbed and then descended again. Along the course of the stream, which is densely wooded at the gorge, and flows between large boulders causing numerous pretty waterfalls even in the dry season, are some delightfully shaded pools, round which orchids and palms, and also ferns of rarer species, are to be found in great quantities. Where the gorge opens out at its southern end on to a wide valley a steep path, which leads up to Chipadzi’s kraal, must be taken. From the kraal a fine view of the gorge is obtained.