Great Zimbabwe, Mashonaland, Rhodesia / An account of two years' examination work in 1902-4 on behalf of the government of Rhodesia

by R. N. Hall

In 1902 the Elliptical Temple was found to be full of large trees of immense girth, some being at least sixty feet in height. The shelter from the chilly winds prevailing at night and in the dry winter season, and the protection from damage to bark by grass fires provided by the high and massive walls, together with the perpetual state of damp from wet season to wet season prevailing within the walls, the close, hothouse temperature most favourable to the promotion of growth, provided an area in which trees and plants could flourish most luxuriantly.

The trees within the temple are almost all hard woods of slow growth. One tree, not by any means a large one, showed by its rings an age of over a hundred years. The numerous fig-trees must be of great age. The three immense hard-wood trees in the centre of the building may possibly be a hundred years old. The rest of the temple was as full of soft-wooded trees as space permitted, while the branches of trees near the main walls crowded over the tops of the walls towards the outside. Undergrowth of monkey-ropes, wild vines, thorn creepers, and large bushes formed a dense jungle through which it was almost impossible to pass, while the damp maintained the soil in a wet, soggy state, the trees being covered with orchids and long, trailing festoons of lichen, the shaded walls being one mass of creepers, green moss, lichens, and ferns, and dripping with damp. Certainly such growth made the temple beautifully picturesque, and added greatly to its weird, desolate, and solemn appearance.

But a succession of “dust-devils” or “wind twisters” that very frequently pass over the country in the breathless sultry hours of noon passed over Zimbabwe on the second day after our arrival, and at once demonstrated what damage the trees were inflicting on the ruins. Branches were set crunching and thumping on the summits of all the walls, soft-wood trees bent and swept the walls of loose blocks, two huge hard-wood branches remorselessly scraped noisily up and down the sides and on the top of the Conical Tower, while small trees growing on the actual summits of the walls shook and bent and still further loosened the blocks among which their roots extended. During the few minutes these “twisters” lasted the labourers studiously avoided the walls from which the ancient blocks were falling. Under every branch that crossed over a wall was a deep depression in the summit caused by the branch thudding upon it. Many of the trees growing close to the walls had, with long years of banging against the side of the wall, lost all their bark on their inner sides, and these had become perfectly flat. All this havoc, caused by rocking trees and sweeping branches, and by huge broken limbs falling upon interior walls, must have been going on for many years. The effect has been to cause the removal of the “throughs,” ties, and large bonding stones with which the ancients secured the summits of the walls, and these once gone the wall was subject to rapid dilapidation. Later, during high winds which prevailed for some days, it was most distressing to hear the noise of the trees grating and heavily beating against the walls, and the constant falling down of ancient blocks. The effects of such destruction can be seen to-day in the broken edges of the summits and in the deep depressions which occur at intervals along the lines of both main and divisional walls. Even the chevron pattern has been irretrievably damaged by branches of trees growing outside the temple, while the little tower in the Sacred Enclosure has, within the last few years, been thrown over by a huge branch.

But in 1902–4 all trees growing near walls were felled, all projecting branches and rotten limbs were removed, as well as all trees which caused damp to collect on walls, while a general thinning out was made of all branches which interfered with a general view all round the building. Such trees as had done all the possible harm they could do and all trees standing at a distance from walls were left standing. The result has been to make the temple less “picturesque” than in its neglected state, but it still remains picturesque. The temple now appears to be larger, and its massive proportions now made visible stand out far more prominently than before.

The present trees appear to have been the first that ever grew within the temple area. In the soil removed from ancient floors there were no signs of any older generations of trees having existed. The first appear to have arrived with the soil brought in by the past Makalanga in the course of their usual practice of converting ancient enclosures into platforms on which to erect their huts. The trees evidently flourished in the soil made rich by huge piles of bones of oxen and buck, the remains of feasts and sacrifices. Except in a few instances where rain-water was unable to escape, and has caused the ancient cement flooring to become decomposed, the roots of the trees rarely pierce below the ancient floors, the surfaces of which are covered with matted roots closely interwoven in masses like the roots of a large plant growing in a small pot.

The jungle growth of small trees, bushes, and creepers would seem to be the result of excavators, who have broken up the hard clay floors of the old Makalanga and thus ventilated the soil below, as those places where most excavation work has been done have produced the greatest quantities of trees and the densest jungles. Until the whole of this foreign soil is removed down to the level of an ancient floor this jungle growth will always spring up afresh.

But the growth of creepers such as monkey-rope, wild vines, and a climbing plant known as “Zimbabwe creeper,” has wrought untold havoc, but mainly on the faces of the walls. These creepers pierce into the joints of the dry masonry and emerge at a point some feet higher up. Later the branch inside the wall swells and forces out of the face of the wall all the blocks between the points where it enters into and emerges from the wall. This destruction of the walls by creepers is seen in many places at every one of the numerous ruins at Zimbabwe. Monkey-rope at the Elliptical Temple and wild vine on the Acropolis have been the most destructive agents of any of the creeper plants. The “Zimbabwe creeper” was found to be growing on the temple walls with its roots on the summits. This plant covered the main walls as with a thick green mantle, at some points completely hiding the entire surface of the walls. It also had its roots in the interstices of the Chevron Pattern, from the blocks of which it hung in festoons of over one hundred-weight each. This constant strain on the pattern has effected some destruction in addition to the injuries caused by the overhanging boughs of trees. The dilapidation of the walls of the Elliptical Temple is fairly typical of the dilapidations at all the ruins at Zimbabwe.

But there are also minor causes for the dilapidation seen in the walls outside the larger ruins. The restless herd of some seventy cattle belonging to the Mogabe climb the lower walls with ease, and will walk along their whole length clanking the ancient blocks, and awkwardly clamber down broken ends of walls and gaps, bringing down a cataract of blocks as they descend. Some two hundred goats appear to live on the walls. Large baboons can be seen taking their morning exercise on the walls of the Acropolis, and as these scamper about and chase one another the blocks fall off the walls. Natives pull out the faces of the walls to secure honey, or in ferreting out small animals for food.

It must also be remembered that the ancient walls have been quarried by Makalanga of past times and even by the present local Makalanga, all of whom have extensively used the ancient blocks for their inferior walls. But perhaps the greatest amount of dilapidation was effected when the large enclosed areas of the ruins were filled up and converted into raised platforms. In these instances, which are very numerous, the divisional walls suffered most, the blocks from their summits being thrown into the area till the interior was raised from 4 ft. to 7 ft. above the ancient floors, when clay floors were laid upon the filling in.

On entering the Elliptical Temple of the Acropolis one of the first questions asked by visitors is—Are all these walls ancient? It is to the interest of our local archæological researches that such a question should be fairly dealt with, and the frank admission made that certain of the walls are not ancient. In examining the evidences against the antiquity of such walls a further proof is secured, were it needed, that such of the walls as are ancient possess undoubtedly the true seal of antiquity.