About eight in the morning, we entered a plain of black sand, in which we perceived here and there spots resembling little islands covered with herbage and mimosas. In proportion as we approached the limits of the desert, nature appeared less desolate. At eleven, we halted upon loose sand: we experienced the whole day a stifling heat, which created a dreadful thirst; as night drew on, some rice was boiled as usual for supper. About ten o’clock on the same day, we started towards the N. N. E., over a soil broken by deep ravines, on the edge of which some vegetation appeared. Our progress was slow, for the camels were allowed to graze as they went on; we proceeded but two miles an hour.
At nine in the morning of the 27th, we stopped by the wells of Sibicia, situated between blocks of pale rose-coloured granite, and surrounded by a pleasant grove of date-trees, the verdure of which presented an agreeable contrast with the rest of the soil. The water of these wells, which are only seven or eight feet deep, is clear and delicious to drink.
About six in the evening, being occupied in prayer, we heard a musket-shot at a distance; this noise did not surprise us, as we knew that Sidi-Aly had gone on before from el-Guedea, to fix upon a spot where his camp might be pitched, and we expected that he would send some one to meet us and conduct us thither. Several Moors ran immediately towards the point whence the sound proceeded: it was actually a Moor sent to us by Sidi-Aly, who informed us that in two days we should reach the camp of the Moors of el-Harib. He was the bearer of letters for several members of the caravan, acquainting them with the state of the country and the prices of merchandise and provisions; part of the evening was employed in reading them publicly, so that the whole caravan shared the benefit of the news. We set out again at ten in the evening, taking a northerly course; and travelled all night over a gravelly soil.
On the 28th, about seven in the morning, we descended a very steep hill, bestrewed with rocks of granite, soft and crumbling, in strata from twelve to eighteen inches thick. The road was very difficult and even dangerous for the beasts of burden. About ten in the morning, we pitched our tents in a plain, upon a stony soil, and surrounded by hills of granite of the most arid appearance.
I was not suffered quietly to enjoy the shelter which this halt offered us; for the Moors incessantly tormented me. Sidi-Body, the same who proposed to Sidi-Molut to sell me, carried his indignities so far as to strike me. I was obliged to take refuge under another tent, where I lay down for the remainder of the day. The wind blew with violence; I was very thirsty and could obtain no water from my companions. The strangers to whom I applied pitied my situation and gave me a little. I passed the day without eating; in the evening I was indebted for a handful of rice to the generosity of my new hosts, who awoke me that I might share their meal.
As we approached the encampment of el-Harib, some Moors prepared their dress, with the intention of preceding us on the following day, in order, no doubt, to enjoy as soon as possible the pleasure of meeting their families. One of them, the son of Sidi-Aly, my guide, had paid court to me for several days, that I might be induced to lend him my wrapper, his own being torn: as I had less reason to complain of him than of his comrades, during the journey, I consented to lend it to him.
About nine at night, we again decamped and took a north-west direction, as we had done from seven till ten in the morning. Toward midnight, we changed our course to N. N. E. through the passes of high mountains of granite, amongst which were pools of salt water. Enormous masses of these rocks, suspended over our heads, seemed to threaten to tumble and crush us. In one of these defiles, the camel that I rode took fright, turned aside and ran away. I was thrown flat on my back upon the gravel.
The pain I experienced was so great, that I was persuaded some of my bones were broken, and indeed that I was near my end. A Moor came to my assistance; he took me in his arms, and pressed me violently against his breast, which afforded me some ease. He assisted me to overtake my camel, which had been stopped, and made it knee, that I might remount with more ease; this Moor was a stranger, who did not belong to the company of Aly. My sufferings were still so acute, that I could not restrain my groans; I conceived that my skull was fractured; I experienced a giddiness in my head and could scarcely see. I was not relieved from these symptoms till the following day, and the pains in my loins continued with much violence, so that I could not stoop without great difficulty. I felt the effects of this fall for more than two months. The Moor who assisted me to rise placed me himself upon my camel, which I should have been incapable of mounting without help.
To issue from these defiles, we were obliged to climb a steep and lofty mountain; the path was narrow and winding, and presented considerable difficulties, in consequence of which all the company were required to alight from their camels. I alone continued to ride; I was so severely bruised that I should have found it impossible to walk any part of the way. This exposed me to numerous invectives from some of the Moors, who threatened to throw stones at me to compel me to dismount: those, however, who had witnessed my accident took my part, and I was allowed to proceed in peace.
The camels, exhausted by the fatigues of the journey, advanced with reluctance, took two or three steps, then stopped, painfully turning their heads first on one side and then on the other, uttering low moans, while they seemed to measure with their eyes the laborious task which still remained to be accomplished. It was with regret that I found myself obliged to continue mounted, for I pitied these unfortunate animals. The Moors, walking behind, encouraged them with their voices, repeating certain words in different tones, in the way of a song, which the camels appeared to understand.