The track frequently passed so near the edge of the rock, and was so narrow, that I thought it impossible to follow it without being thrown down frightful precipices. At length, having with great toil attained the summit, we discovered an extensive plain, the soil of which, composed of gravel and grey sand, is very hard and interspersed with thin flat stones, resembling slates, and of a grey and black colour.
On the 29th, about two in the morning, the soil changed, becoming more sandy, and offering some traces of vegetation. At daybreak we stopped to perform our devotions; after having returned thanks to God, those who wished to precede us set out for the camp upon fresh camels and went off at a swift pace.
We followed them soon afterwards, in a N. N. W. direction, over a hard soil covered with coarse grey gravel. About eight o’clock, we descended into a plain in which the vegetation was tolerably fine; I particularly remarked the tamarisk in considerable quantity. The herbage, though dry, on account of the season, afforded abundant nourishment to our camels.
The inhabitants of the camp, apprised of our arrival, hastened out to meet us: the women presented the children to their fathers, who expressed the greatest joy, embracing them alternately, and affectionately returning their caresses. I was much struck by this interesting scene, and could not avoid comparing it in my mind with the coldness, which amongst the Braknas the wife and children of Mohammed-Sidi-Moctar had manifested on occasion of his return to his family.
About nine o’clock in the morning, we arrived at the dwelling of Sidi-Aly. His camp belonged to the tribe of Body; it was composed of twelve or fifteen tents, covered with stuff made of camel’s hair, pitched in a spacious plain, to the north of which rose high mountains entirely bare and running from east to west. My joy on finding myself in an inhabited region was extreme; the idea that henceforth I might quench my thirst at my ease made me forget the fatigue of the desert.
On entering the camp my guide met me laughing, and asked me to give him my hand in token of peace: he inquired after my health and even lodged me in the tent of his aged sister, who was so prejudiced that she durst not approach me. I had soon numerous visits from men and women; for Aly had related to his countrymen the various circumstances which had determined me to cross the desert on my return to my own country. The women, whom I found much more curious than the men, teased me incessantly; they talked all together, so that I was at a loss which to listen to. In order to attract my attention, one struck me on the shoulder, another on the head, and another pulled me by my clothes. Sidi-Salah, to whom I had in the morning lent my wrapper, gave me some dates for my breakfast; I found them however so hard that I ate but few, which nevertheless renewed the pains in my jaws.
Aly, my guide, had couscous of wheat prepared for two Mahometan priests, of the Trajacants who had travelled with us: I expected that he would have offered me a small share, for I had eaten nothing throughout the day, except the bad dates which had been sent to me; but I was disappointed and compelled to wait patiently.
At sun-set, Aly killed a fine sheep to regale the priests; the liver and suet were stuck upon skewers, laid upon the coals, and eaten half-raw. He gave me a taste of it; the children and their parents divided the entrails, which they also laid upon the coals.
The remainder of the mutton made a plentiful supper; they gave me a good portion of couscous of barley-meal, adding a small piece of the belly of the sheep which had been reserved. Though this couscous was detestable, both for its want of seasoning and for the great quantity of fat with which it was made, I ate of it with appetite.
On the 30th of June, the women were early at work grinding wheat for the breakfast of the priests. The means by which they obtain the flour separated from the bran is as follows: they have two round flat granite stones, placed one upon another, and set into one another by means of a piece of wood fixed to the centre of the lower stone; the upper has an opening through which the grain is introduced; it is then turned with a handle. Two women are employed in working this machine, although it is neither heavy nor difficult to move.