On the 6th of August, at five in the morning, we continued our route northward, at first on very level ground; after which we reached a chain of mountains, stretching from E. N. E. to W. S. W., and struck into its gorges, following the course of a pretty little rivulet called Guigo; the road being extremely stony and difficult. About eight we passed L-Eyara, a village containing from twenty five to thirty houses, all ill-constructed with a ground-floor only; this village stands on a rock of black granite. Hitherto our direction was N. N. E., here we turned due north.
At one P. M. we halted at Tamaroc till the heat, which was intense, should abate: I lay down upon the grass, in the shade of a fine rose-laurel, pleasantly situated on the margin of the rivulet, the freshness and gentle murmurs of which inclined me to sleep. The hills on each side of the route had no great elevation, and appeared composed of brittle and coarse-grained rose-coloured granite, in some parts combined with white quartz. At three P. M., the heat having somewhat moderated, we proceeded northwards through the defiles till half past five; we then turned to the west, still following the sinuosities of the same rivulet. This stony road led us into a valley, well cropped with corn and maize, the verdant aspect of which amidst these barren mountains presented an enchanting spectacle. About seven in the evening we halted at Kars, where we passed the night. Between Tamaroc and this place, we saw no more palm-trees.
On the 7th at five A. M., we resumed our journey, first in a westerly, and subsequently in a northerly direction, still threading the defiles of the mountains, through a less fertile tract than that over which we had just passed; here though the country is still watered by the Guigo it is generally barren.
The roving Berbers, who encamp in these narrow valleys, find here and there a little forage for their cattle. About eleven o’clock we arrived at N-Zéland (or Ain-Zéland) our beasts being much fatigued. The hamlet is inhabited by Berbers, who breed fine sheep. As these people are accustomed to give nothing to the Moors, part of our caravan were compelled to forego their supper. The sherif Sidi-Moula-Sitec ordered a couscous, and sent a portion of it to the sherifs of the company; the Moors of inferior rank were not included in the distribution.
The Berbers, thinking to gain something by us, made cakes of barley-meal, which they sold for a good profit to those who had money: encouraged by the success of this traffic, they killed two sheep, which they cooked whole at a large fire, cut up into small pieces, and sold for four mouganans, a sum equivalent to eight sous of our money. But our company was so numerous that this provision proved insufficient, and those who could not obtain any ate dates only; a poor substitute for more nourishing food.
On the 8th of August, at three A. M., we quitted N-Zeland. The beast I rode being excessively fatigued, I was compelled to perform part of this day’s journey on foot; and still weak, I walked with difficulty over the flinty mountain roads, pausing every moment to recover breath. I was not singular in my misfortune, many of our people were on foot, for the poor animals could scarcely drag themselves along. Till eight o’clock we proceeded northward, then for one hour westward, and afterwards turned again to the north. The road was so bad that the asses sunk under their burdens; their haunches were galled by the friction of a girth, which it is customary here to pass over the rump in the fashion of a crupper, to prevent the load from slipping forward in descending steep declivities, while another, which girds the breast, performs the same service in ascending. The guides without any remorse struck these poor animals severe blows to quicken their pace. At two P. M., overcome with fatigue, we reached L-Eksebi, where we halted: this pretty village is encompassed by a good wall, and contains about eight hundred inhabitants; it is situated on an extensive plain, watered by the windings of the rivulet which I have before mentioned, and surrounded by high mountains wholly destitute of vegetation. The plain is well cultivated, and even embellished by some olive-trees. On our arrival, the inhabitants, all Moors, opened a market, where we found in abundance bread, meat, raisins, and figs, which were all sold by weight. Near this market is a kind of caravansera, where travellers are received on payment of a small remuneration for the animals only; these are lodged in little galleries constructed for the purpose, and the men sleep near them on the ground.
As the dates presented to me by my host of Boheim were now exhausted, and I had nothing whatever to eat, I determined to beg some, not of the towns-people, for as the palm-trees do not grow in the vicinity they are dear here, but of a young Moor of our own caravan, who obligingly gave me some.
On the 9th, we set out at five in the morning, directing our route to the north; about seven we turned to the W. N. W. ascending hills from one hundred to one hundred and twenty-five feet above the surface of the plain. In every direction similar eminences meet the eye, all exhibiting, with the exception of a few cork-trees, complete sterility. Exhausted with fatigue, I feared that it would be impossible to continue my journey; my limbs bent under me, and I was compelled to sit down continually; my courage was ready to forsake me: this ascent was indeed a terrible task for my enfeebled powers. By the blessing of God we attained the summit by nine o’clock; and thence descended into an extensive and beautiful plain, surrounded by high lands, which were mostly barren of vegetation. Four times in the course of the day our caravan was stopped by the Arabs, who had encamped by the road-side, to obtain payment of the passage dues, which was made in dates, and bread baked a second time in the oven; I was told that they acted under the sultan’s orders. Some Berbers as we passed spread a pagne beside the road, that a few dates might be thrown to them: this fruit is scarce and dear in this part of the country; and some of them brought us water in exchange. About three o’clock we arrived at L-Guim, a small Moorish village, where some cultivation is visible and some forage may be obtained, but the general aspect of the country is sterile and dry; not a single tree is to be seen. I supped upon some pieces of barley bread, baked a second time, and which I steeped in a little water. This bread Sidi-Moula-Sitec had sent me as a present, the evening before, by one of his servants. After this repast I lay down near a field of maize, making my pillow upon a ridge between its furrows.
At five in the morning of the 10th, we set out again, our route lying W. N. W.; at seven we turned to the north through defiles of arid and stony mountains; at ten to the N. N. W. The landscape, interspersed with lofty eminences, has a most dreary appearance; on some of them only grows a quantity of box to the height of about eighteen inches, the leaves of which were dry and yellow. In the level parts we saw some Arab tents from which at our approach the children issued to beg dates. About three P. M. we reached Guigo, a small Berber village: its environs are naked, without any trace of cultivation, and the wells are so distant, that it is not easy to procure water without paying in dates, of which I had no more, and was obliged to have recourse to charity for a draught; I applied to several Moors, who all repulsed me like a dog, and bade me slake my thirst at the fountain.
The heat, which had been intense, moderated towards evening; just before our arrival a slight thunder-shower fell, which continued for a quarter of an hour, and greatly cooled the atmosphere. A sherif, who had long suffered from a bad foot, gave me some water and a small cake of wheat and aniseed, on condition that I should furnish him with a remedy; I had still a little diachylon left, and divided it with him; he then opened before me several rags, in which his foot was wrapped, and I saw two large white maggots upon the nearly healed wound.