The first or eastern division of Oregon can at present be considerd worth little else than to hold the world together. It, however, furnishes a tolerably good conveyance towards the ocean for some of the waters of Oregon, that take their rise in the Rocky mountains and elsewhere along the western declivity of the continent near to the dividing ridge.
The surface of this division is undulating. Some of its rivers traverse the country along their beds, from five hundred to more than one thousand feet below the common surface. Although along the emigrant route this division measures about seven hundred miles in width, yet its true width may not much exceed six hundred,—and little else is seen but a country destitute of soil and vegetation, excepting wild sage, and except also along the rivers and some of the valleys, where detachd portions of grass are seen. The valley along the emigrant route, through which the Powder river waters pass, is a level plain, and it would be a delightsome Eden, had it soil, and were it coverd with luxuriant grasses.
I am here led to remark, that the analysis of the soil here, made by Col. Fremont on his way through this valley, to foreign readers might produce much misunderstanding relative to the soil of the country generally. Although the analysis here producd may be such as indicates good soil, yet with a little exaggeration it may be said that another shovelful of earth would have taken nearly all the soil of the whole valley.
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Across the middle division of Oregon by way of the emigrant route, from Grand Round valley to Barlow’s gate, at the east side of the Cascade range of mountains, is about 212 miles, though probably in a direct course it would be some less than 200. The Blue mountains traversing this division, give rise to some rivers that checker its visage, but they are of minor importance, and nearly dried up in the summer, from the long absence of rains in those parts. This division compares very well with the eastern, in point of barrenness and disadvantages generally for the promotion of settlement and improvements of any kind.
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I come now to consider the western division of Oregon—the only one on which settlements of any considerable extent have been effected, although Dr. Whitman succeeded in maintaining a small position on the Walla Walla river, till the fall of 1847, at which time himself and wife were killd by the Indians of his own fostering, growing out of a dissatisfaction relative to his treatment with them. And although it is thought by many that the doctor acted in all good conscience towards them, yet through blind zeal and probably a sectarian influence from other denominations of religionists, they were led to believe that the doctor was taking measures to undermine their liberties, and ultimately to overthrow and destroy them.
From the east side of the Cascade range of mountains westwardly to the Pacific ocean the western division ranges from 150 to 200 miles in width, and extending from north to south through the whole length of the Oregon territory.
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In remarking upon the several distinct subjects that come to hand relative to Oregon, I am first led to notice its climate.—The climate of Oregon may be considerd a healthy one, though it is subject to considerable changes from year to year. The summer seasons are generally dry, with warm days and cool nights, from the first of July to the first of October, though the rainy season, as it is calld, does not commence much before November, at which time, and for three or four months after, the land becomes so saturated with water, and the streams so swollen, that little passing is done by the citizens from one place to another.