The width of the isthmus from Panama across to the bay of Darien, is not much different from 50 miles—but by the way of the old Panama road to Chagres, the distance is about 64 miles. Through this route the present emigration passes.—From Panama, there is a portage of about 24 miles, to Cruses, a town of about 150 houses, at the present head waters of the Chagres river. There is also, another town of similar importance, about 5 miles below, upon the Chagres river, calld Gorgona. To this town, also, there is a road which leads off from the Cruses road about half way distant from Panama to Cruses.
The present Cruses road is probably of as ancient date as the town of Panama. It has once been pavd, and a tolerably good road for pack animals to pass, but too narrow to admit of carriages. Across the portage, the country is uneven, though not mountainous, and much of the way, the road is cut through hills of soft rock. At present, the pavement is almost all broken up, and the road is muddy and disagreeable to pass, much of the year, even with pack animals. Most of the property that now passes that road, is carrid upon the backs of native citizens,—though horses or mules can be hird at either end of the rout for the transportation of property.
The houses of Cruses and Gorgona, and also a few scattering houses along the portage, are made of Bamboo, a reed which grows very tall, but small in size. These reeds are set upon the ends, and firmly crowded together to the size of the requird wall. At the corners of these walls, are set posts of sufficient strength to support the roofs, which are thatchd of the cocoa leaf. After the roofs are completed, no rains can penetrate them. The slender appearance of these houses, seems to be a proof that no tornados or heavy winds exist along the isthmus,—and some families live in tenements of nothing but a roof placd upon posts in the form of a Dutch barrack.
The remainder of the way from Cruses to Chagres, is down the Chagres river,—a stream of considerable importance in time of high water, though not of sufficient depth to admit of the navigation of any but small class steamboats, in times of common stages of the river.
The country across the isthmus truly indicates a want of yankee enterprise. No agricultural interests are resorted to for the support of the inhabitants. All appears drear, and the country is thickly coverd with low, leafy kinds of timber, heavily laden much of it, with vines of various kinds, pending their branches near to the ground. Now and then, however, along the way is seen a small opening or lawn, where a few cattle are grazing—and these of the thriftiest kind,—indicating the advantages which might be derivd from the improvement of the soil upon the isthmus.
CHAPTER XXV.
Town of Chagres—Its inhabitants—Trip to New Orleans—Thence up the Mississippi to St. Louis—Arrival home.
Chagres is a town of some over 150 houses, situated on the South American side, at the mouth of the Chagres river. The houses are like those of Gorgona and Cruses, many of which appear to be of considerably ancient date. The ground upon which the town stands, is of but little elevation above the waters of the river, and it seems that it must inevitably become inundated, should a strong wind continue to blow a considerable time from off the Caribbean sea. This town, as also Gorgona, Cruses and Panama, belongs to the republic of New Grenada. Bogota is the capital of this republic, and is situated interior, several hundred miles to the south of Chagres. An entrance to the mouth of the Chagres river, by sail ships, is often attended with the danger of being wreckd on the beach. Hence, a steamer is kept at the harbor for the conveyance of passengers from them, at a distance of 2 miles, where they are obligd to anchor.
At the entrance of the river and contiguous to the town, upon a projecting eminence, is an old, dilapidated fort, with a large number of brass cannon scatterd about upon the walls. There appear to be a few soldiers strolling about the fort, but with a total indifference to the attention which a fort requires for its requisite abilities, in an emergency.