As I generally kept from five to ten leagues from the land, no canoes, except one, came off to us till the 28th, when we were visited by a dozen or fourteen. The people who conducted them brought, as usual, the produce of the island. I was very sorry that they had taken the trouble to come so far. For we could not trade with them, our old stock not being, as yet, consumed; and we had found, by late experience, that the hogs could not be kept alive, nor the roots preserved from putrefaction, many days. However, I intended not to leave this part of the island before I got a supply, as it would not be easy to return to it again, in case it should be found necessary.
We began to be in want on the 30th, and I would have stood in near the shore, but was prevented by a calm; but a breeze springing up at midnight from S. and S.W., we were enabled to stand in for the land at day-break. At ten o'clock in the morning, we were met by the islanders with fruit and roots; but, in all the canoes, were only three small pigs. Our not having bought those which had been lately brought off, may be supposed to be the reason of this very scanty supply. We brought-to for the purposes of trade; but, soon after, our marketing was interrupted by a very hard rain, and, besides, we were rather too far from the shore. Nor durst I go nearer; for I could not depend upon the wind's remaining where it was for a moment; the swell also being high, and setting obliquely upon the shore, against which it broke in a frightful surf. In the evening the weather mended; the night was clear, and it was spent in making short boards.
Before day-break, the atmosphere was again loaded with heavy clouds, and the new year was ushered in with very hard rain, which continued, at intervals, till past ten o'clock. The wind was southerly; a light breeze with some calms, when the rain ceased and the sky cleared, and the breeze freshened. Being, at this time, about five miles from the land, several canoes arrived with fruit and roots, and, at last, some hogs were brought off. We lay to, trading with, them till three o'clock in the afternoon, when, having a tolerable supply, we made sail, with a view of proceeding to the N.W., or lee-side of the island, to look for the Discovery. It was necessary, however, the wind being at S., to stretch first to the eastward, till midnight, when the wind came more favourable, and we went upon the other tack. For several days past, both wind and weather had been exceedingly unsettled, and there fell a great deal of rain.
The three following days were spent in running down the S.E. side of the island. For, during the nights, we stood off and on; and part of each day was employed in lying-to, in order to furnish an opportunity to the natives of trading with us. They sometimes came on board, while we were five leagues from the shore. But, whether from a fear of losing their goods in the sea, or from the uncertainty of a market, they never brought much with them. The principal article procured was salt, which was extremely good.
On the 5th in the morning, we passed the south point of the island, which lies in the latitude of 18° 54', and beyond it we found the coast to trend N. 60° W. On this point stands a pretty large village, the inhabitants of which thronged off to the ship with hogs and women. It was not possible to keep the latter from coming on board, and no women I ever met with were less reserved. Indeed it appeared to me, that they visited us with no other view, than to make a surrender of their persons. As I had now got a quantity of salt, I purchased no hogs but such as were fit for salting, refusing all that were under size. However, we could seldom get any above fifty or sixty pounds weight. It was happy for us, that we had still some vegetables on board, for we now received few such productions. Indeed this part of the country, from its appearance, did not seem capable of affording them. Marks of its having been laid waste by the explosion of a volcano, every where presented themselves; and though we had as yet seen nothing like one upon the island, the devastation that it had made in this neighbourhood, was visible to the naked eye.
This part of the coast is sheltered from the reigning winds, but we could find no bottom to anchor upon, a line of an hundred and sixty fathoms not reaching it, within the distance of half a mile from the shore. The islanders having all left us, toward the evening, we ran a few miles down the coast, and then spent the night standing off and on.
The next morning, the natives visited us again, bringing with them the same articles of commerce as before. Being now near the shore, I sent Mr Bligh, the master, in a boat to sound the coast, with orders to land, and to look for fresh water. Upon his return, he reported, that, at two cables' lengths from the shore, he had found no soundings with a line of one hundred and sixty fathoms; that, when he landed, he found no stream or spring, but only rain-water, deposited in holes upon the rocks, and even that was brackish from the spray of the sea, and that the surface of the country was entirely composed of slags and ashes, with a few plants interspersed. Between ten and eleven we saw with pleasure the Discovery coming round the south point of the island, and at one in the afternoon she joined us. Captain Clerke then coming on board, informed me, that he had cruised four or five days where we were separated, and then plied round the east side of the island, but that, meeting with unfavourable winds, he had been carried to some distance from the coast. He had one of the islanders on board all this time, who had remained there from choice, and had refused to quit the ship, though opportunities had offered.
Having spent the night standing off and on, we stood in again the next morning, and when we were about a league from the shore, many of the natives visited us. At noon, the observed latitude was 19° 1', and the longitude, by the time-keeper, was 203° 26', the island extending from S. 74° E. to N. 13° W., the nearest part two leagues distant.
At day-break on the 8th, we found that the currents, during the night, which we spent in plying, had carried us back considerably to windward; so that we were now off the S.W. point of the island. There we brought-to, in order to give the natives an opportunity of trading with us. At noon our observed latitude was 19° 1', and our longitude, by the time-keeper, was 203° 13', the S.W. point of the island N. 30° E., two miles distant.
We spent the night as usual, standing off and on. It happened, that four men and ten women who had come on board the preceding day, still remained with us. As I did not like the company of the latter, I stood in shore towards noon, principally with a view to get them out of the ship; and some canoes coming off, I took that opportunity of sending away our guests.