On this occasion, I cannot help observing, that I have always found, that the bolt-ropes to our sails have not been of sufficient strength or substance. This at different times, has been the source of infinite trouble and vexation, and of much expence of canvas, ruined by their giving way. I wish also, that I did not think there is room for remarking, that the cordage and canvas, and, indeed, all the other stores made use of in the navy, are not of equal goodness with those, in general, used in the merchant service.
It seems to be a very prevalent opinion, amongst naval officers of all ranks, that the king's stores are better than any others, and that no ships are so well fitted out as those of the navy. Undoubtedly they are in the right, as to the quantity; but, I fear, not as to the quality of the stores. This, indeed, is seldom tried; for things are generally condemned, or converted to some other use, by such time as they are half worn out. It is only on such voyages as ours, that we have an opportunity of making the trial, as our situation makes it necessary to wear every thing to the very utmost.[4]
As soon as day-light appeared, the natives ashore displayed a white flag, which we conceived to be a signal of peace and friendship. Some of them ventured out after us; but the wind freshening, and it not being safe to wait, they were soon left astern.
In the afternoon, after making another attempt to weather the eastern extreme, which, failed, I gave it up, and run down to the Discovery. Indeed, it was of no consequence to get round the island; for we had seen its extent to the S.E., which was the thing I aimed at; and, according to the information which we had got from the natives, there is no other island to the windward of this. However, as we were so near the S.E. end of it, and as the least shift of wind, in our favour, would serve to carry us round, I did not wholly give up the idea of weathering it, and therefore continued to ply.
On the 20th, at noon, this S.E. point bore S., three leagues distant; the snowy hills W.N.W., and we were about four miles from the nearest shore. In the afternoon, some of the natives came off in their canoes, bringing with them a few pigs and plantains. The latter were very acceptable, having had no vegetables for some days; but the supply we now received was so inconsiderable, being barely sufficient for one day, that I stood in again the next morning, till within three or four miles of the land, where we were met by a number of canoes, laden with provisions. We brought-to, and continued trading with the people in them, till four in the afternoon, when, having got a pretty good supply, we made sail, and stretched off to the northward.
I had never met with a behaviour so free from reserve and suspicion, in my intercourse with any tribes of savages, as we experienced in the people of this island. It was very common for them to send up into the ship the several articles they brought off for barter; afterward, they would come in themselves, and make their bargains on the quarter-deck. The people of Otaheite, even after our repeated visits, do not care to put so much confidence in us. I infer from this, that those of Owhyhee must be more faithful in their dealings with one another, than the inhabitants of Otaheite are. For, if little faith were observed amongst themselves, they would not be so ready to trust strangers. It is also to be observed, to their honour, that they had never once attempted to cheat us in exchanges, nor to commit a theft. They understand trading as well as most people; and seemed to comprehend clearly the reason of our plying upon the coast. For, though they brought off provisions in great plenty, particularly pigs, yet they kept up their price; and, rather than dispose of them for less than they thought they were worth, would take them on shore again.[5]
On the 22d, at eight in the morning, we tacked to the southward, with a fresh breeze at E. by N. At noon, the latitude was 20° 28' 30"; and the snowy peak bore S.W. 1/2 S. We had a good view of it the preceding day, and the quantity of snow seemed to have increased, and to extend lower down the hill. I stood to the S.E. till midnight, then tacked to the N. till four in the morning, when we returned to the S.E. tack; and, as the wind was at N.E. by E., we had hopes of weathering the island. We should have succeeded, if the wind had not died away, and left us to the mercy of a great swell, which carried us fast toward the land, which was not two leagues distant. At length, we got our head off, and some light puffs of wind, which came with showers of rain, put us out of danger. While we lay, as it were, becalmed, several of the islanders came off with hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots. Out of one canoe we got a goose, which was about the size of a Muscovy duck. Its plumage was dark-grey, and the bill and legs black.
At four in the afternoon, after purchasing every thing that the natives had brought off, which was full as much as we had occasion for, we made sail, and stretched to the N., with the wind at E.N.E. At midnight, we tacked, and stood to the S.E. Upon a supposition that the Discovery would see us tack, the signal was omitted; but she did not see us, as we afterwards found, and continued standing to the N.; for at day-light next morning she was not in sight. At this time the weather being hazy we could not see far, so that it was possible the Discovery might be following us; and, being past the N.E. part of the island, I was tempted to stand on, till, by the wind veering to N.E., we could not weather the land upon the other tack. Consequently we could not stand to the N, to join, or look for, the Discovery. At noon, we were, by observation, in latitude of 19° 55', and in the longitude of 205° 3'; the S.E. point of the island bore S. by E. 1/4 E, six leagues distant; the other extreme bore N, 60° W., and we were two leagues from the nearest shore. At six in the evening, the southernmost extreme of the island bore S.W., the nearest shore seven or eight miles distant; so that we had now succeeded in getting to windward of the island, which we had aimed at with so much perseverance.
The Discovery, however, was not yet to be seen. But the wind, as we had it, being very favourable for her to follow us, I concluded, that it would not be long before she joined us. I therefore kept cruizing off this S.E. point of the island, which lies in the latitude of 19° 34', and in the longitude of 205° 6', till I was satisfied that Captain Clerke could not join me here. I now conjectured, that he had not been able to weather the N.E. part of the island, and had gone to leeward, in order to meet me that way.