Chapter VI.
Combination of Weaves in a Fine Web—Sunken Effects Made on Head Motion and Jacquard Looms—Employment of More Than One Bank of Shuttles—The Overshot Method—Use of Different Colors and Grades of Stock—Binding Long Floats
A very effective combination of weaves in a fine web is seen at Fig. 1. The middle of this web has for the face a 7 up and 1 down weave, but the yarn and picking are fine. The yarn piles up just enough next to the plain edge weave to set off the weaves in contrast to each other. It will be noted that on either side of the silk figure there are two cords with the binder thread left out between each, which further sharpens up the contrast. The fancy effect is produced by the use of a heavy cabled cord, the two outside threads being of reverse twist, so that when they pearl up on contraction of the web, one turns to the right and the other turns to the left, making an effective border.
Sunken Effects
An altogether different type of figuring is seen in Figs. 2 and 3. Both of these webs illustrate what is known as the sunken effect. In both cases the face is a three-leaf twill, which character of weave is most effective in hiding the filling beneath it. Therefore, the figure may be worked out in sharp contrast. In Fig. 2, which is made on a fancy head loom, it will be noticed that the face threads on the fifth cord on either side are left out in order to assist in the carrying out of the plaid effect aimed at in the figure. It will also be seen that the face warp is striped in color. The character of the figure is such that the major part of the face warp is operated in one solid block, making it practicable to produce this on harnesses worked on a chain loom.
In the web illustrated at Fig. 3, each thread is operated in the design independently. Such designs are only producible on a jacquard loom. But inasmuch as the threads used in forming the figure are confined to the face warp, it is not necessary to operate the back or binder threads from the jacquard. It is more convenient to have these worked from the cams or fancy head in combination with the jacquard, for the reason that a truer and clearer shed can be obtained.
Furthermore, by having the back harness and the jacquard operated from two distinct movements it becomes possible to time them differently so as to obtain better results in the clearance of the stock in the shed. A 208 hook machine affords ample capacity for the making of these goods, allowing for 26 rows of 8 hooks each, which will cover the requirements of nearly all classes of web, giving an entire row to each cord. Such arrangements will allow for six hooks for the face, one for the binder and one for the gut on each row. Thus it will be practicable to use different colored threads for the gut, which may be brought up in the design in relief effects to the main figure as required.
Calculation for Figure Distribution
In this type of figuring, calculation must be made to distribute the figure uniformly so as to get a well balanced flat effect of the web. As already stated, wherever the filling is shown, all the face stock at these points is buried between the upper and the lower cloths, and is acting as filler or gut in these places, preventing contraction. Should heavy blocks be thus designed, the web would pucker up in an unseemly manner. The filling used should be soft and uniformly spun, so that it will mass well together and in a great measure prevent the buried face stock from pricking through.