Fig. 5A.—Draft for Fig. 5
In Fig. 5A is seen the draft of a simple overshot figure covering 23 hooks, which are operated from one knife drawing in unison with the binder harness, while the other knife is operating on the alternate shed, or the heavy pick, and working in unison with the rubber harness. It will be noticed that in the overshot design both sides of the figure do not operate alike, but follow one pick behind the other. This is so arranged that the binder may come up at the right pick to properly bind down the silk in the goods, and so avoid any irregularity or ragged appearance at the border of the figure.
Making Overshot Designs
In making overshot designs, care must be taken not to have the silk float too long, or it will give the goods a rough coarse appearance. Should the design call for a long span over a number of cords, it will be necessary to bind at intervals as shown in Fig. 5A, and at each succeeding pick to break the order of the binding as may seem advisable. The stitch or warp figure coming up at each side of the main figure, must be pegged on the dobby chain to operate on the reverse knife to the overshot figure, so as to work on the pick when the binder harness is down.
Figs. 6 and 7.—Other Forms of Overshot Design
Fig. 6 is an example of another form of overshot design, known as the “matelasse.” In this the silk filling extends from side to side of the web, as in the old form of jacquard, being bound down at different points, the bindings forming the figure.
Fig. 7 shows still another form of overshot made by the operation of the gut as figure instead of the binder, and which is worked on the heavy pick instead of on the binder pick. This is done so that the intersecting cords of face, which hide the silk at different points, can be raised in order that the figure silk be hidden underneath it. To accomplish this, each of these face threads is passed through slip leashes, which are operated from the dobby. These slip leashes allow for the working of the face thread in the main harness. At the same time it is possible to raise them to the height of the upper shed so that the silk shuttle may pass under them.