Fig. 4.—Novel Edge Decoration
The harness used for these threads stands still a given number of picks, and at regular intervals is brought down so that the draw-in thread comes in contact with the shuttle filling, which then passes around it. As the shuttle returns through the open shed, the filling or weft pulls the easily running draw-in thread with it, until it comes in contact with other warp threads, which the filling passes around, and so stops the further progress of the draw-in thread into the shed. The thread at the same time is carried around a wire which works in a dent next inside the one in which the draw-in thread passes. Quite a variety of fancy effects may be produced in this manner. Threads of different materials and colors may be used and drawn across the face of the web at different points, and selvages of a distinctly different color and character to the body of the goods may be made.
Lappet Weaving
Lappet weaving on elastic fabrics is a method which has not been extensively used, probably on account of the limitations of design obtainable by this style of weaving. Nevertheless, it affords opportunity for considerable elaboration at a very small cost. The loom attachment which permits the making of these patterns, which are somewhat similar to embroidery, is known as the lappet motion. Wherever it has been used it has been found to be serviceable. It can be attached either to a plain loom or a fancy loom. It is a system of levers operated by a chain composed of different sized balls, arranged according to the pattern desired.
On the loom lay are one or two slides running the full length of the lay, which are moved laterally by the different sized chain balls. They can also be raised and lowered as required by the design. Both these slides have generally three needles for each suspender web, which are spaced at equal distances apart, one or all of which may be threaded and used. When slides are lowered into the web, the shuttle filling or weft passes over the yarn which is carried in the needle eyes and binds it into the cloth. Then by moving the slides backward and forward for succeeding picks, and each time binding the thread into the cloth, the various lappet patterns are produced.
Fig. 5.—Lappet Weaving
