The weave employed is an ordinary double cloth plain, made with face, back, binder and gut. It is necessary to have 2 back, 2 binder, 4 face and 4 gut warps. The accompanying table will show the number of threads required in each warp, together with the weights carried on each one.
WARP DETAILS FOR VAN HEUSEN COLLAR
| 4¼ Inch | 4¾ Inch | 5¼ Inch | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| No. of Warps | Threads (60/2) | Weight Carried | No. of Warps | Threads (60/2) | No. of Warps | Threads (60/2) | ||
| Face | 2 | 99 | 8 | lbs. each | 2 | 109 | 2 | 119 |
| Face | 2 | 82 | 7 | lbs. each | 2 | 92 | 2 | 104 |
| Back | 1 | 198 | 13 | lbs. each | 1 | 218 | 2 | 238 |
| Back | 1 | 164 | 12 | lbs. each | 1 | 184 | 2 | 208 |
| Binder | 1 | 99 | 10 | lbs. each | 1 | 109 | 1 | 119 |
| Binder | 1 | 78 | 7 | lbs. each | 1 | 88 | 1 | 100 |
| Gut | 2 | 99 | 8 | lbs. each | 2 | 109 | 2 | 119 |
| Gut | 2 | 78 | 7 | lbs. each | 2 | 88 | 2 | 100 |
It is essential that these warps be properly separated at the back rolls; Use the first roll for two binder, second for 4 face, third for 2 back and fourth for 4 gut. A 24 dent back reed should be used, which will allow for 4 face, 4 gut, 2 back and 2 binders in each dent, which together with the back roll separation of the different warps makes it convenient to handle the various warp sections and keep the threads straight and confined to the limitations of space available.
Take-Up Giving Long-Sided Cloth
Method of Reeding
The front reed used is a 40 dent, with one cord or seven threads to each dent. In some mills, however, great advantage has been found in using a 26½ dent front reed, drawing 10 threads in one dent and 11 in the next, splitting between face and back, which makes the stock work much easier, and relatively increases the output. Any tendency to “rowing” caused by the dents in this coarser reed are completely hidden in the bleaching process.
Harness Draft and Weave for Van Heusen Collar