THE BRUNIG PASS.—LUCERNE.

Pleasant Ride.—Interlaken.—Lakes Thun and Brienz.—Abendberg.—Faulhorn.—Giesback.—Illumination.—Ascent of the Brunig.—Vale of Meyringen.—Falls of Reichenbach.—Lungern.—Splendid Courage.—Cheap Suffering.—Modern Reformers.—Mount Pilatus.—Myths.—Lucerne.—Population.—St. Leger.—Service.—Crucifix.—A Devotee.—Mass.—Organ.—Cloisters.—Lake Lucerne.—Lion of Lucerne.—Dance of Death.—Striking Scenery.—Gersau.—Brunnen.—Bay of Uri.—Sir James Mackintosh.—Swiss Patriots.—Chapel of Tell.—Cascades.—Fluellen.—Altorf.—Captain Lott

186

[CHAPTER XVII.]

THE BLACK VIRGIN OF EINSIEDELN.—LIFE IN SWITZERLAND, ETC.

The Hermit Meinrad.—His Black Virgin.—Murder.—Detective Ravens.—Monastery.—Miracle.—Shrine.—Pilgrims.—Revenue.—A Barefooted Penitent.—Village Church.—Fountain.—Gallery.—Abbot.—Hospitality.—Library.—College.—Monastic Life.—Adieu.—Pleasant Quarters.—Meals.—Hotel Life.—John Bull.—A Charming Couple.—Americans.—A National Feature.—Slang.—Language.—Manners.—An Elegant Lady.—Selfishness.—French and Swiss Railroads.—Improvements.—Accidents.—Accommodations

200

[CHAPTER XVIII.]

CANTON APPENZELL.—SWISS CUSTOMS.

Trogen.—Convent.—Memento mori.—Scenery.—Religion.—German Service.—Curious Custom.—Constance.—Martyrs.—Dividing Line.—Remarkable Change.—Cause.—Pillory.—Evening Bell.—Watchman’s Song.—Bridal Custom.—Athletic Sports.—Democracy.—Assembly.—Office Seekers.—Council.—Roads.—Taxation.—Schools.—Foreign Pupils.—Pedestrians.—Moral Culture.—Treatment of Women.—Cows.—Farm Work.—Manufactures.—Mechanics.—God’s Acre.—Graves.—Funeral Ceremonies.—Simplicity.—Lonely Burial.—Unpleasing Custom.—Costumes.—The Upper Classes.—Refinement and Culture.—Manners.—Patriotism.—A Challenge